Series D details
- Thread starter craig
- Start date
with reference to the headlamp mounting==All parts are available , including the original type inner dome c/w adjustment screws and rubber flange seal, from Charles Ware's Morris Minor Spares Ltd., Bristol. Tel.0117 3003 753.
Google them and look at their parts catalogue.
Google them and look at their parts catalogue.
Well done Craig , the end result is worth the pain
3-1/8" hole saw came in....already had 1/8" center hole drilled for speedo location....carved out speedo hole......measured 79.5 mm when finished.... not quite large enough for Smiths s.433
Same routine - cut thru with 1/4 guide bit, reverse direction thru gel coat, back to cut once thru....goes very quickly and smoothly. 5yr old Bosch cordless drill.
Same routine - cut thru with 1/4 guide bit, reverse direction thru gel coat, back to cut once thru....goes very quickly and smoothly. 5yr old Bosch cordless drill.
Trial fitted all three in SL1 dashboard. I am excited to see how this will work. The 80mm hole for Smiths S.433 would not allow speedo to drop in because of the reset shaft. Screwed off new flanged bezel, installed Smiths 433 from below, screwed on new flanged chrome bezel. Clip fit/use still not solved on U39 Lucas rotary light switch. Moved handle bar slightly to left to allow clearance for Lucas type dipper...might have to go 1/8 " more. Thinking about wing nuts on speedo bracket nuts, with holes in wings to allow simple wire safety. 37" speedo drive cable will work fine. would like some help on routing of OEM series D speedo cable. Need a plate nut solution for switch and ammeter....I have made up some steel ring plates to drill and tap......all in progress.
If you consider rotating the switch so that the dip switch swings vertically and the button is on the back, it may let you centralise the handlebars. I have not found much need for lock wiring. The speedo flange does need to be secure but it and the ignition switch bezel are the only items which would cause problems if they come unscrewed. The instruments and light switch will sit in their holes held down by the weight of their wires.
Thanks Ian, Yes, I will try this rotation... might alleviate problem. I am using the existing S.433 to avoid another Smiths rebuild......plan is to run the reset out at the bottom of cowl, right next to steering damper.....I have an extended reset shaft from ebayuk. Still no solution to how the U39 clip is to be used. There is "as supplied" a vague pattern for the ignition switch. Stainless SL17 & 18 require polishing. New chrome flanged Smiths bezel from Ebay as well. I need to purchase a new Smiths gasket, to fit under new bezel.
Lucas light switch= The securing switch wire clip ends fit into one of the grooves on the rear of the switch. The grooves will require fettling for the wire clip to fit correctly. Be careful not to break through the outer edge.
Speedo retaining nuts are 6mm, I use 6mm s/s nyloc nuts. Speedos are metric throughout.
Speedo retaining nuts are 6mm, I use 6mm s/s nyloc nuts. Speedos are metric throughout.
Thanks Robin, I was coming to that conclusion, but needed a push. The plastic, the U39 Lucas switch is made from, is getting torn up by installing this clip several times, sharp wire clip ends as well. I see there is a torsion value to this clip that needs the tits up when installed, as the job is to compress this clip as well as hit the grooves. So I will need to file the switch plastic grooves wider to accommodate the wire diameter. This clip, once installed, may require the fiberglass hole to be enlarged.....
I am still considering 6mm wing nuts, wings drilled, hand twisted wire for safety.....or maybe just star washers.....6mm nyloc make sense.
I am still considering 6mm wing nuts, wings drilled, hand twisted wire for safety.....or maybe just star washers.....6mm nyloc make sense.