Thanks Bruce, Mine is OK now, Cheers Bill.
Series D details
- Thread starter craig
- Start date
I was successful in mounting the PR18/4B to the dashplate SL17. I was going to file the plastic, but plastic was not looking too good, so I opted to grind the metal clip flatter to fit exposed grooves. Dremel tool, hi rpm, I don't know what grit, what ever handy. Took about .006" off each side.
Now with the clip installed, this assembly requires a larger hole in the fiberglass dash.
Now with the clip installed, this assembly requires a larger hole in the fiberglass dash.
Cannot be standard - I don't believe the factory would have fitted two horn buttons and with coil ignition you don't need a cutout button. The clutch lever is inboard of the valve lifter and dipswitch. Both clutch and brake look too far in to be used from the grips. I spoke to the last owner of this bike at the 50th aniversary of the demise of the factory and he, if I remember correctly, he told me he had owned it since about 1963 but not ridden it since the sixties. When it came up for auction it had been restored to within an inch of its life so was probably never intended to be ridden again. Although the last owner told me he had three Vins, two of them enclosed, and he lived close to VOCspares in Lymm, he came by car.
Interesting to see the dipswitch location - I wish I'd thought of that
My SL3 bracket I installed nuts up to gain as much clearance as I could for the alloy mud guard, I thought it was close. Now I find that the nuts UP will hit the front petrol tank mounts, limiting turning and chipping paint and bending tank mounts. Looking in thru headlamp hole - cell camera w/flash.
Replace your charging system with a Walkernator and you can fit heated grips and seat cover and wear Gerbing or similar heated clothing. I know no adequate cure for the reduction in traction.