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Series D details

craig

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
I am in the process of fitting the D series fiberglass cowl and windshield to a Comet. My thought was, it would provide more comfortable rides in winter temperature. I was able to procure the following pieces -
SL1 cowl
SL26 windscreen
SL3 bracket
Lucas 700 headlamp NOS
and lots of other pieces
The intent was to have this equipment as "D" correct looking as possible. A winter "Victor" to ride., but only front cowl.
I am pre wiring the cowl and looking at the handlebar.
I still need SL5 L&R - anybody?
Question #1 - What is the dimension HB1/5 as compared to HB1/1 ? This dashboard is covering valuable handlebar.
Here is one of my references.
http://images2.bonhams.com/image?src=Images/live/2011-07/04/8358362-1-1.jpg
image
 
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craig

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
SL1 cowl piece with new Lucas 700 headlamp mounted. Trial fit on Comet next.
See thevincent.com for more photos
20140127_170254small.jpg
 
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davidd

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
I make two different sizes of SL5, a stock one and one that is a little longer for better protection. If you can't find them from another source before spring I can make either or both.

David
 

craig

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Hi David, Your offer is wonderful, thank you, but I think I have a pair of long SL5 coming from Sweden. This quick fit is more involved than I thought. How are the wires supported? I am converting the 433 speedo to the cowl with a new chrome flange and extended reset shaft, tipping the speedo drive gearbox horizontal, bending front brake arm to provide clearance. fabricating new wire harness back to the battery. etc etc
Looks like my next hole is center front for windscreen.
M0_91.jpg
 

davidd

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Craig,

I am glad that you have a more reliable source than me for the enclosures. The SL1 looks very nice.

I do not remember any support for the wiring harness.

For those who are interested Rhode Island Wiring has a complete Series D wiring harness available. It is expensive, but quite nice and very original. It was designed for the open D, but the differences are not major.

David
 

b'knighted

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
When you come to bolt the SL1 to your SL3 you may well find, as I did, that the external hole location is closer to one edge. I centralised the holes in the ears of the head cowl and bolted through to link plates which are fixed to the SL3 with countersunk screws. This allows the headcowl to be swung up, pivoting on the steering damper, to set the headlamp face vertical. The links are virtually invisible so can be different allowing the external bolt location to be purely aesthetic.

Rather than having domed or acorn nuts on the outside of the ears, I used chromed bumper bolts. (see http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-TC-TD-...rts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item565d54a4420 )
If I were doing it now I'd probably use, even less original, button headed hex socket screws.
 

craig

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Thanks Ian, I am at that point of determining where to drill SL1 fiberglass cowl for fit to SL3 bracket. Even though it may not match side/side exactly, it appears reasonable to simply drill.
BUT.... am considering the verticalness of the headlamp. D men what is the correct headlamp vertical position? It looks like Ds sit "tail high" , so?
I request photos of -
FF85 bracket
SL16 bracket
Also how do I cut out for speedo and gauges without damaging gel coat?
 

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b'knighted

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Most pictures of Ds are taken with the bike on its centrestand. Sitting like that the back wheel tends to pull the suspension to full extension. Some clever photos have the stand photo-shopped out but still have the lifting handle upright and the rear wheel hanging out.
You need the headlamp face of the head cowl set vertical while you are sitting on the bike with its suspension loaded and no stands down. It should also be perpendicular to the bike centre line. The headlamp aim is then set using the sprung adjusters under the chrome rim.
 
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