Positive earth.
Misc: Electrical (General) LED Indicators
- Thread starter danno
- Start date
It’s ok. I think I’ve found the problem.
After having a good look around the headstock area, I found a broken wire. It links into the relay so chances are it’s the left side rear indicator live feed.
Just need to find the other end under the tank.
After having a good look around the headstock area, I found a broken wire. It links into the relay so chances are it’s the left side rear indicator live feed.
Just need to find the other end under the tank.
Attachments
Still no luck.
Becoming a bit of a time consuming faff. They worked for twenty years and thought that joining the broken lead would fix it.
The warning light in the circuit was a 23w BA9 blutak’d with wires soldered on.
I’ve remade some of the wiring and tried a 2w BA7 bulb but the indicators just stay on with a new relay.
RH side flashes occasionally.
Paul Goff can supply parts as needed and I may replace the indicators with LED ones eventually.
Becoming a bit of a time consuming faff. They worked for twenty years and thought that joining the broken lead would fix it.
The warning light in the circuit was a 23w BA9 blutak’d with wires soldered on.
I’ve remade some of the wiring and tried a 2w BA7 bulb but the indicators just stay on with a new relay.
RH side flashes occasionally.
Paul Goff can supply parts as needed and I may replace the indicators with LED ones eventually.
Last edited:
Got them flashing with a 21w car indicator bulb warning light.
Renewing the relay helped also as the old one was worn out.
After a bit of research into how electro mechanical flasher relays work, the load needs to be sufficient for the bi metallic contacts to heat up and then cool down.
This governs how quick the indicators flash.
It’s a lot of trial & error as a low wattage idiot light should be enough as the relay states 5w for this. Trick now is to find a 21w bulb small enough to be used in the headlight shell,
I might try a BA9 23w again as was fitted originally although not in a proper holder.
Paul sells Lucas bulb holders for the headlight but the bulb is 2w which isn’t enough for the indicators to flash.
Renewing the relay helped also as the old one was worn out.
After a bit of research into how electro mechanical flasher relays work, the load needs to be sufficient for the bi metallic contacts to heat up and then cool down.
This governs how quick the indicators flash.
It’s a lot of trial & error as a low wattage idiot light should be enough as the relay states 5w for this. Trick now is to find a 21w bulb small enough to be used in the headlight shell,
I might try a BA9 23w again as was fitted originally although not in a proper holder.
Paul sells Lucas bulb holders for the headlight but the bulb is 2w which isn’t enough for the indicators to flash.
Doesn’t seem to be much info available on the Badlands module size but I think it’s 8 x 4 x 0.5 inches.
Just wondering where it’s mounted on the bike?
The Badlands module is much smaller than that.. more like 3" x 1 1/2 It fits easily inside the headlamp shell. These modules are pretty small and seem to be getting smaller with each new version, I think the latest is version 3
Thanks.
As mentioned, there’s plenty of indicator choice on Ebay. Would the Badlands module work with any LED indicator without any other device needed, apart from switch?
I still have my four 25w indicators and electro mechanical relay on the bike but have accidentally broken the L.H front one.
They were working ok after I experimented with the idiot bulb. This, being in the circuit had to be sufficient draw for the relay to operate.
The switch is a chrome 3 way type as shown in pic. Bit awkward to fit but is small which helps on my cramped handlebars (decompression lever takes up space).
Hoping now to modernise the indicator system and looking for something reliable and fairly straightforward to fit.
Attachments
The badlands and most other similar modules (usually described as self cancelling load equalizing) will work with any LED type indicators, including with an idiot light on the 'dash' although if the indicators self cancel then I suppose you don't need the idiot/warning light really.. The modules 'calculate' the watts.. (of course we all know the basic 'working' of a flasher unit, it's basically a circuit breaker that trips with the total watts of the bulbs, then the 'lights' go off.. with the 'breaker' reset the light come on, and trip the breaker again! and so on... fast or slow or not flashing at all depending on the watts of the bulbs... you can waste time experimenting with different flasher units of course...
THe Self Cancel modules prefer/need 'momentary' switches (one touch, like a horn button) Your type of switch will need you to 'toggle' the button, ie switch on the back to centre, a nuisance but still works and self cancels anyway.. You could use a horn button on each side of the handlebar but it's starting to look crowded.. The modules work great though. You'll be happy
Ok thanks.
So the module just needs a trigger and then it runs for nine seconds or so.
Sounds good and less fiddling with on/off.
I'm sure a Honda CD250 I used years ago, had a single spring loaded R/L momentary switch and a cancel button underneath.
That'll work.. Japanese logic.. as opposed to BMW logic of a button on each handlebar switch housing and a separate cancel button on the rightside bar!!! or 80s Harleys with separate buttons each side you had to hold your thumb on!!!