Clutch issue

[Ducdude]

I like your idea of 100 miles and another oil change. She does deserve that . I have a 6 volt system and I checked the charge rate today and it was 8.25. I hope I did not destroy my battery since it is only a year old but never fear. I will replace it with a 6 vt sealed unit in an old/new style battery box. I just put one in my BSA and it worked fine. I did notice the other day that at 65 mph with the wind hitting you in the chest and helmet it kind of makes you feel like if you let go of the bars you might get blown off. I forgot about that. The first time I felt that was with my son at a beginners course for racing. It was here in Texas and it was Jeff Nash's school. (he is fast) Perhaps I need a wind screen? Do they make a nice one for our Vinnie? Clutch is next.

8.25Vdc seems a bit high I may see 7 or 7.2Vdc on my Miller generator with a Podtronics regulator http://www.podtronics.net/ I am sure you can find windscreens that would fit but I really have not considered one so I am not one to comment.. You could always just get a Black Prince...They do a great job of blocking the weather.. Cheers, Eric

 

[Bill Thomas]

Hello Kurt, I thought you were running a Mag' The battery will not make any differance to it running. On old mag's the condencer can break down when hot, After it cools it can restart, Cheers Bill.

 

[Ducdude]

I would have sworn you had a coil ignition on your bike?? If you have a mag the dead battery would not have stopped ya.. Bill is correct a failing condenser in the mag could have brought ya down...ciao Eric

 

[kurtflys]

No magneto on my bike. You are right Eric I have a coil. But should I consider going back to a magneto? I hear that the new stuff is bullet proof . I'm not sure I would want to undertake that project myself but we do have Big "D" cycle in Dallas, and I'm sure they could handle that with ease. I'm thinking all the parts should be available =D

 

[b'knighted]

I'd say, leave well alone -if it ain't broke don't fix it. You can start the bike and you haven't complained about how it goes when you're riding. Your charging system, however, does sound like it needs looking at. If you are going to keep the bike and ride it further afield, you may want to consider upgrading to a 12v negative earth system in the future. That would mean that roadside fixes become easier as most car spares stockists do not carry 6v coils or lamps. If your dynamo is over charging a replacement regulator like the Vreg 2a, from http://www.aoservices.co.uk/bosch.htm and other stockists, will solve the problem now and leave a route to an instant upgrade. You can run it six volt until you want to change to 12v. Then you'll need to cut its link wire and fit new 12v battery, lightbulbs and ignition coil. The horn will probably not mind the extra volts. This will also let you run power for sat-nags and similar. Also worth fitting is the same company's BSM (Battery Status Monitor), simply wired between the on side of your ignition switch and earth it shows a single LED which changes colour according to battery voltage. It flashes slowly when voltage is too low or quickly when overcharging. I have hidden one between the headlamp shell and the left headlamp stays and with its unit inside the shell and its wire taped flat under the shell, you need to know its there to notice it when unlit. Its an easy place to glance while riding. Second advantage is that it gives a poitive indication that the ignition has been turned on or off. No more walking away and returning to a flat battery because it was left on but not running.

 

[clevtrev]

I'd say, leave well alone -if it ain't broke don't fix it. You can start the bike and you haven't complained about how it goes when you're riding. Your charging system, however, does sound like it needs looking at. If you are going to keep the bike and ride it further afield, you may want to consider upgrading to a 12v negative earth system in the future. That would mean that roadside fixes become easier as most car spares stockists do not carry 6v coils or lamps. If your dynamo is over charging a replacement regulator like the Vreg 2a, from http://www.aoservices.co.uk/bosch.htm and other stockists, will solve the problem now and leave a route to an instant upgrade. You can run it six volt until you want to change to 12v. Then you'll need to cut its link wire and fit new 12v battery, lightbulbs and ignition coil. The horn will probably not mind the extra volts. This will also let you run power for sat-nags and similar. Also worth fitting is the same company's BSM (Battery Status Monitor), simply wired between the on side of your ignition switch and earth it shows a single LED which changes colour according to battery voltage. It flashes slowly when voltage is too low or quickly when overcharging. I have hidden one between the headlamp shell and the left headlamp stays and with its unit inside the shell and its wire taped flat under the shell, you need to know its there to notice it when unlit. Its an easy place to glance while riding. Second advantage is that it gives a poitive indication that the ignition has been turned on or off. No more walking away and returning to a flat battery because it was left on but not running.

I used to have a `sat-nag`, used to punch me in the kidneys, when I would not stop for a fag.

 

[kurtflys]

OK all you Vincent gurus, I went for a 40 mile ride tonight and no oil leaks to speak of. Bike ran fine, but the clutch did start slipping when I tried to go over 60 mph. Before I went out I did adjust the clutch cable per the operators hand book part one. ie when you pull the lever all the way to the grip the arm in the kick start cover meets it's limit against the post. Still slips . No oil in the clutch housings. Not sure what to do next? Should I just pull the clutch out and inspect it? When you pull the lever all the way to the grip the outer clutch plate only moves at best 1/8 inch or less. I put her in forth gear and pulled the clutch lever and the rear wheel rotates freely. Do I need to send this clutch to someone to rebuild? Or ??? ps. I can see that the screws are a little buggered so I'm thinking this clutch has been off in the past.

 

[Ducdude]

OK all you Vincent gurus, I went for a 40 mile ride tonight and no oil leaks to speak of. Bike ran fine, but the clutch did start slipping when I tried to go over 60 mph. Before I went out I did adjust the clutch cable per the operators hand book part one. ie when you pull the lever all the way to the grip the arm in the kick start cover meets it's limit against the post. Still slips . No oil in the clutch housings. Not sure what to do next? Should I just pull the clutch out and inspect it? When you pull the lever all the way to the grip the outer clutch plate only moves at best 1/8 inch or less. I put her in forth gear and pulled the clutch lever and the rear wheel rotates freely. Do I need to send this clutch to someone to rebuild? Or ??? ps. I can see that the screws are a little buggered so I'm thinking this clutch has been off in the past.

Easy stuff first... How much free play do you have at the clutch lever? I once had the free play down to 1 mm and as the bike heated up the free play went to zero and the clutch would slip..Adjust the free play at the adjuster just below the shifter loosen the lock nut and turn in to reduce free play and loosen to increase it..Try 3-4mm of free play at the lever.... If that does not work there are plenty of other things to check..BTW there is nothing hard about working on the Vincent clutch it is really is an elegant design...Take your time go slowly and keep the list up...We will help... Really it may take 2 days the first time you pull the clutch and only 15 mins the 2nd time....This is all to be expected and nothing to fear...Cheers, Eric

 

[kurtflys]

Yes Eric I do have about 1/8 to 1/4" free play. I did what the book recommended and that's the way it turned out. I'm not sure about the second part of the adjustment on page 26 of the Handbook. It mentions a tappet type adjuster behind the kick start. I see what they are talking about but I'm not sure how that screw connects to the G91 unless it moves G96?? I probably should just pull the cover so I can see how it all works. Ok sorry I see that G91 and G96 is where you make the second adjustment, and I have done that, but I only had to make a slight adjustment to get the recommended slack. So I think the problem lies else where. Now where would that be;+) Perhaps a glass of Guinness will help.

 

[Ducdude]

Yes Eric I do have about 1/8 to 1/4" free play. I did what the book recommended and that's the way it turned out. I'm not sure about the second part of the adjustment on page 26 of the Handbook. It mentions a tappet type adjuster behind the kick start. I see what they are talking about but I'm not sure how that screw connects to the G91 unless it moves G96?? I probably should just pull the cover so I can see how it all works. Ok sorry I see that G91 and G96 is where you make the second adjustment, and I have done that, but I only had to make a slight adjustment to get the recommended slack. So I think the problem lies else where. Now where would that be;+) Perhaps a glass of Guinness will help.

Sadly I love Guinness but I always get a head ache when I drink more then two...I am a Scotch fan, Islay Single malts these days... OK since we are there take out the 9 screws #406 from the C27 ring and then the springs and the cups they sit in and lets have a look at the pilot clutch metals plates and friction ring and see if they are up to snuff.. Metals and friction material should be in good shape oil free and not glazed. We refinished my metals with sand paper on a smooth surface to remove high spits and brake up the glaze.. I also used an updated friction ring C24/1... Next we will probably want to remove the clutch shoe assembly and an air wrench may be helpful unless you find that C20 is loose in which case that may be the problem....More later let us know what you find..Eric