Clutch issue

kurtflys

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Non-VOC Member
Now that I have boiled the clutch shoes, do I need to sand the pads, and clutch basket/drum ? If so should I do it cross grain, and what grit ? I'm getting closer to the fix. I can feel it=) And when I put it all back together is the old gasket ok? It seems in good shape, but I do have a new one. And do you install the gasket dry or add a liquid sealer with the gasket? I know this stuff sounds simple, but on my plane we use cork gaskets and they work fine as long as you torque the to specs. To tight and they leak.
 

bmetcalf

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I don't use a gasket on the primary cover joint, just Hylomar. Inspect the seals (PD25, PD26) and replace as needed. Always replace the C18/1. I put Hylomar on the splines of C3/1. I can tighten the C2's through the holes of my C3/1, so I put it in to protect the PD25 from the splines. Maybe it isn't really needed, but I do it anyway. You might want to get a new set of C2's if the slots got buggered up while being removed. New 406's are good, too. Check your C45 spring, too, and make sure the tang goes in the nut and shaft slot securely.
 

Ducdude

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I don't use a gasket on the primary cover joint, just Hylomar. Inspect the seals (PD25, PD26) and replace as needed. Always replace the C18/1. I put Hylomar on the splines of C3/1. I can tighten the C2's through the holes of my C3/1, so I put it in to protect the PD25 from the splines. Maybe it isn't really needed, but I do it anyway. You might want to get a new set of C2's if the slots got buggered up while being removed. New 406's are good, too. Check your C45 spring, too, and make sure the tang goes in the nut and shaft slot securely.
Again Bruce and I completely agree on all points, except I use a new primary gasket each time...Whatever works... On the C45 spring try to do as Bruce says and line up the tang with a slot but do not freak out if the tang does not reach the slot..Some do some do not either way the ages have proved that getting the tang in the nut and shaft slot will not guarantee that that nut will stay put...Mine backed out in 4000 miles...I added NON PERMANENT Loctite to the C20 nut just as an added measure of security the second time... That road side break down cost me a great week end trip and $$$... Depending on the extent of the oiling of your shoes it may take a few days till you can cook the oil out...I would boil the shoes in dishwashing detergent all day long adding water and soap as needed and skimming the oily crud off the top. At days end evaluate how much crud was coming off at boil and pull the shoes and dry them. If I saw oil spots I would lightly sand and then set aside till morning. In the morning they would be oily again and so back in the pot for another day till the oil amount is greatly diminished. This will work and it is cheep...New pads would be better and easier once you find someone to bond the material on.. PS I used a 150 grit paper on the shoes and drum as that was what I had 350 or higher would probably be better.. PPS, I coat the cover gaskets with grease before I put them on...trial fit them as they may need to be trimmed down so they do not stick up from the seam..
 
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Bazlerker

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Non-VOC Member
There is no requirement to remove the primary cover to work on the clutch..However, if one does have to remove the primary cover to work on the ESA or the primary chain...I have used Cometic gaskets to great effect...
 

kurtflys

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Non-VOC Member
Now that I have the clutch out and cleaned I noticed that the springs in the centralizing plungers are not equal in strength . The pads seem to have about the same ware. Is this something that I need to adjust, or is unequal spring resistance normal?
 
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