H: Hubs, Wheels and Tyres Front brake help please

[kerry]

We made them! took a set of alloy brake plates added some Plasticine lumps had it scanned, got two alloy blanks and let the cad cam rip..
standard shoes one up one down standard cams and a couple of rag and stick brigade (yacht) adjusters. Job done

Tim, you make it sound easy, when are going into full production ? can I have a set tomorrow please ! yours look good with the scoops, photo below.
I will be ordering new ones

after my next ride I think as although the fabric liner is an improvement they are still spongy and I can pull the lever to the bars which is disconcerting for sure.
Thanks everyone

 

[erik]

I have the experience with both brakes and can recommend them both ! Erik

 

[Peter Holmes]

If you can pull the brake lever back to the handlebar when the brake lever and cables are adjusted correctly, then there is something going seriously wrong somewhere between the brake lever and the brake shoes and drum.

 

[kerry]

'Yes' which is why I came to the forum for your and others help, visually it appears the excess movement is all inside the drum's so flexing of the shoes I suspect, the cables are new and heavy duty, once the shoes have bedded in and readjusted maybe they will not flex so much, I feel they are flexing because not touching all over until bedded in ? but I am sure I will be ordering one of the later complete types anyway because both are going to be better than original's anyway and surely the sensible thing to do, one thing when a bike is worth so much like our Vincents any cost on brakes is small compared with bikes value
Thank you Erik, Paul and all, appreciated.

 

[highbury731]

If you can pull the brake lever back to the handlebar when the brake lever and cables are adjusted correctly, then there is something going seriously wrong somewhere between the brake lever and the brake shoes and drum.

I used to own a 1960 BSA Super Rocket. Its brakes were useless, despite best efforts. I fitted a low-mileage 1968 BSA-Triumph 2ls front wheel. It came to me with a rock-hard original equipment front tyre etc barely worn, and excellent original brake linings. It took a bit of modifying to fit the pre-'65 forks (shorter pre'65 axle and torque reaction lug on the plate built up with weld to mate to the early fork legs). Once fitted, with a very heavy-duty front cable, it was a superb brake. If you squeezed the lever when stationary, it was as soft as a clutch lever, easily able to be pulled back to the bar. On the road, you could decide how much tyre squeal you wanted, and lock it up any time you wanted.

 

[kerry]

I used to own a 1960 BSA Super Rocket. Its brakes were useless, despite best efforts. I fitted a low-mileage 1968 BSA-Triumph 2ls front wheel. It came to me with a rock-hard original equipment front tyre etc barely worn, and excellent original brake linings. It took a bit of modifying to fit the pre-'65 forks (shorter pre'65 axle and torque reaction lug on the plate built up with weld to mate to the early fork legs). Once fitted, with a very heavy-duty front cable, it was a superb brake. If you squeezed the lever when stationary, it was as soft as a clutch lever, easily able to be pulled back to the bar. On the road, you could decide how much tyre squeal you wanted, and lock it up any time you wanted.

I have fitted a TLS on a Triumph too, absolutely needed on every Triumph in my opinion.
Have emailed this morning for price and availability
Kerry.

 

[vibrac]

'Yes' which is why I came to the forum for your and others help, visually it appears the excess movement is all inside the drum's so flexing of the shoes I suspect, the cables are new and heavy duty, once the shoes have bedded in and readjusted maybe they will not flex so much, I feel they are flexing because not touching all over until bedded in ? but I am sure I will be ordering one of the later complete types anyway because both are going to be better than original's anyway and surely the sensible thing to do, one thing when a bike is worth so much like our Vincents any cost on brakes is small compared with bikes value
Thank you Erik, Paul and all, appreciated.

The flexing of the plates is why we specified 7075 alloy and beefed up the thickness of our plates added internal ribbing and strengthened the support pillars the metal cost a lot of cash but it makes for a stiff unit

 

[Speedtwin]

I have the McAllister brakes on my D Shadow they are fantastic.
I shall be fitting a Walker steering stem to this machine this winter.

The Speet brakes are beautifully made, Vince is a gentleman the kit is very comprehensive.
Cables and dual pull converter the works.
I highly recommend them.

I have a set on the touring Rapide and along with the Walker steering stem,steering damper and front AVO damper with the long eye bolts this provides a great brake and a safe ride.
As previously discussed here, over braking a standard front end can be the road to rack and ruin or A and E.
Al

 

[kerry]

Hi Al,
I have almost bedded in my new fabric type shoes and the brakes are much improved, however looking at the various new ones, the German ones are the lightest and best in my opinion and I have ordered these, Mc Alister and others are good I am sure but heavier ?
I have a Avo front damper fitted but also have a spare new Ikon which I intend to try and compare with the Avo which seems a little too soft, I will try and adjust the Avo but not sure which way stiffens up on the screw adjuster, in or out ?
Kerry.

 

[Speedtwin]

From memory click in to increase damping.
I start set up soft and slow around 3 and build from there I am around four on all my AVO dampers.
I have instructions some were will have a look.
Al