Be gentle with the grinding paste. The taper is 10:1 so every negligible 0.001" removed from the surface is 0.002" from the diameter, which moves the ATD inward by a non-negligible 0.02".
won't idle low=too much timing?
- Thread starter usefulidiot
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The tool for locking the armature that nkt267 mentions may be the one I described in the technical section-KVF replacement-page 1
It is one I made myself, it is a small tee-bar rounded at the threaded end to fit in the earth brush holder hole. just remove the brush and holder,screw in the tee-bar until it touches the armature then back off a little,set the armature in the correct postion and nip up keeping an eye on the points to make sure they haven't moved, Don't tighten it too tight just enough to hold the shaft, then fit the atd, remove the tee-bar and refit the brush and holder, DON'T FORGET THIS.
Chris.
It is one I made myself, it is a small tee-bar rounded at the threaded end to fit in the earth brush holder hole. just remove the brush and holder,screw in the tee-bar until it touches the armature then back off a little,set the armature in the correct postion and nip up keeping an eye on the points to make sure they haven't moved, Don't tighten it too tight just enough to hold the shaft, then fit the atd, remove the tee-bar and refit the brush and holder, DON'T FORGET THIS.
Chris.
It seems like I read some where that when tapers are machined , there is a ever so slight difference in the male and female tapers , is this true? DAN, TREVER, anyone. ??
Just curious Max
Just curious Max
No, it's not true. Unless the machinist doesn't know what he's doing. Or, unless you are thinking of remachining a taper. If the male and female tapers hold the parts at the correct distance from each other, remachining either one will have them fit just as well but the ends will be closer together by 20x the amount removed from the radius.
I usually make my own gaskets including the mag, I have made them from what ever was laying around, thin to thick, never had a problem , go figure.
I was referring to tapers such as the tail stock of a lathe. these tapers take a shock with sufficient kinetic energy to marry the two tapers.
That would be rap with a lead hammer .
Best Max
What I wrote applies to all tapers. Tail stock of lathe, spindle of mill, shaft of a magneto,... All tapers.
If a magneto were rare enough to justify the effort, it would be easy enough (albeit, time consuming) to build up the taper with Al bronze and machine it back down to the correct specification (diameters as well as 10:1 taper) such that the sprocket/ATD that was going to be attached to it was returned to the correct distance it needed to be.
I
I wouldn't do it that way, I would take a cut on the mag housing or its surface face to align ,seems the practically way out , at least .010 is .010 and to put that much heat on the armature would cause damage to the armature methinks.
regards MAX
I wouldn't do it that way, I would take a cut on the mag housing or its surface face to align ,seems the practically way out , at least .010 is .010 and to put that much heat on the armature would cause damage to the armature methinks.
regards MAX
you certainly wouldn't do it with the coil attached!