won't idle low=too much timing?

BigEd

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Glad that you are now are getting somewhere with your problem. Carefully checking the basics should always be one of the first things when problem solving.
A good result here with the added bonus of being an inexpensive fix.:D

update: tonight i spent the last couple hours re-setting timing. first thing i did was check where it was at from using my rod-timing method. It was way off....it was so far off i'm embarassed to say the numbers and i'm surprised it was running at all. This did give me my ATD"s range of 36 degrees which i understand to be 2 more than it should. It took me forever to get the ATD locked on the taper without the armature rotating in the process. I ended up making a little line with a marker on the cam ring and the cam heel to see where the points were breaking using the cigarette paper method. That way i could easily see if it moved during the process I set it at 36 degrees fully advanced so that i could be at or close to 0 with no advance. Checked it again after everything was locked down. Bike started second kick and sounds much crisper right off the bat. At that point i called it a night. Still have to re-tune the carburetors in the morning but i'm confident i should be able to get it running happily. Just in time too...looking forward to the Dania Beach Vintage Motorcycle Show next Saturday. Thanks for all the ideas and i'll update again should i successfully get the carbs tuned.
 

cinquecento

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well done with the perseverence, i spent best part of two days using same method and experiencing same problems to getto that point.
 

Martyn Goodwin

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update: It took me forever to get the ATD locked on the taper without the armature rotating in the process.

I recommend that when you get the inclination you use valve grind paste to lap the taper in the ATD to the taper on the magneto shaft. Once done it will take not much more than finger tight to get it secure. It is worth the effort of doing it.
 

vibrac

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But as was said in a recent thread (and I expect many other threads*) each time its ground the whole caboodle is slowly moved towards the inside wall.

*use of the search and advanced search top RH screen under the banner is recomended before posting
 

nkt267

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When the atd is nearly biting on the taper I recheck the timing and put a socket over the nut and give it a tap with a hammer..Also search the recent threads on how to lock the armature.I made the tool described and it works a treat..I will do a search and try to add a link..john
 

usefulidiot

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When the atd is nearly biting on the taper I recheck the timing and put a socket over the nut and give it a tap with a hammer..Also search the recent threads on how to lock the armature.I made the tool described and it works a treat..I will do a search and try to add a link..john


that is exactly what i did with the socket and hammer. definitely curious about the tool
 

cinquecento

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so i'm guessing the time to give the socket a tap is by judging the pinions being at or near running alignment ?
did a sarch for armature and tool , nothing obvious turned up. nkt67:please post if you recall where / when tool details were posted.
 

bmetcalf

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Tap the socket when the ignition timing is where you want it, to engage the taper and then tighten the nut.
 

Martyn Goodwin

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But as was said in a recent thread (and I expect many other threads*) each time its ground the whole caboodle is slowly moved towards the inside wall.

BUT there is nothing to be gained by having an ill fitting taper that is prone to slippage. Hitting the ATD with a drift and hammer in an often vain attempt to stop it slipping presents a real risk of damaging the ATD bearings.

If you lap/grind the taper to achieve a proper, snug and above all a slip free fit it will only move the ATD in by a few thousands of an inch, and if it then does seem that the ATD clamping boss on its rear face is too close the the inside wall of the timing chamber it is but a few minutes work with a file to remove some metal from that clamping boss.

Been there, done that!
 
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