V3 clutch drag
- Thread starter Oldhaven
- Start date
At this point a topic of passing interest becomes important as with the occasional parade,and sprint in mind for the alphabet twin( as well as road use) I have purchased a V3 multiplate clutch .Now forgetting the mechanicals of lift etc which I understand fully, what I have done previously (I have used/raced quite a few multiplate clutches Norton and then Suzuki) I always just knocked out the oil seal PD26 and let the primary 'mist' keep the rust away but do I interpret the latest wisdom as discussed above with those with more Vn clutch experience that me as:
A. lubricated in this case reference is made to a very lightweight 10W oil to be held (and here I am not sure) either in the clutch compartment with seal PD26 in place and the C28 cover gasket or else held in the entire chaincase with seal removed?
B. Unlubricated perfectly OK with a 3000 mile interlude but seal PD26 in place
A. lubricated in this case reference is made to a very lightweight 10W oil to be held (and here I am not sure) either in the clutch compartment with seal PD26 in place and the C28 cover gasket or else held in the entire chaincase with seal removed?
B. Unlubricated perfectly OK with a 3000 mile interlude but seal PD26 in place
I think the only possible problem with running a V3 clutch completely dry is that the steel driven plates are quite thin verses the same in one of Bob Newby's clutches, and they get hot quickly and distort. Neal does supply plate kits designed to run totally dry. Or else you can simply soak the plates in thin oil and wipe off the excess, then assemble as per normal. Though you will still need a gasket behind the cover as some oil will still fling off as it is run up and centrifugal force throws the oil out. I would still carry out the mod I do by dressing a whisker off each ear on the friction plates so they are not so snug a fit in the outer drum, thus allowing the clutch to free off a bit easier. Cheers............Greg.
My V3 is one of the very first ones, bought long ago and not used until this year, as are the instructions I quoted, so they cannot be relied on in light of development or experience over the years that has changed the way they are used. I am not even sure the friction plates are the same material now. I would be interested to hear what your instructions recommend, and if they are the same. For my machine,I drilled the chaincase and tapped the holes as the instructions suggest so I can fill and drain any lubricant. The inner chaincase seal is intact and I used a new Cometic gasket with a newly purchased deep club spares dome, so it is quite oil tight. (My old original B dome leaked and was too shallow). I noticed in something Martyn mentioned today in another thread that I may have messed things up by using ATF instead of 10w lightweight oil. I can run the same type of lubricant for the chaincase as the clutch in case the inner chaincase seal leaks by since I used a sealed bearing on the crank mainshaft and I should get no mixing in of engine oil. (So far since the rebuild this is true). I will change to the light oil next year for the spring startup, but still plan to try it as Plan B with the cleaning and 3 hour soak , then run with that residual oil coating for 3000 Kilometers (not miles) before doing it all again. I could be OK with adding oil to the clutch, since I have increased lift, but I won't know unless the empty clutch dome scheme does not work and I change to Plan A. For your use in a parade, does that mean a lot of stop and go?
Ron
Ron
Ron, you can basically use whatever oil you like in the primary, as its main function is to lube the chain, so thin oil is fine. However.............If you use thin oil, be carful not to overfill it, because if the level rises too much it will leak this oil out through where the generator goes in. A stock engine showing signs of engine wear will slowly pass engine oil into the primary filling it more than the level plug screw, and it will start leaking oil from the generator. This is because the slinger behind the drive sprocket cant cope with the extra oil being thrown at it from the primary chain. The V3 clutch does not need a lot of oil to lubricate it, but it does need some, or else it will get hot and grab quite badly. It needs periodically to be striped, wash the plates clean and assemble with oil, as the plates get dirty in service, from the slight break down in friction material. Cheers............Greg.
To fill out the story of my V3 clutch drag problem, you may remember that I had done several things that seemed to help incrementally, using a dial indicator on the clutch center button to measure lift at each stage. Swapping springs around and shimming them, getting the new G91 lever, careful adjustment, filing the slots for clearance, and a few more things that you all suggested all seemed to help. Weather shut me down for the year but I had gone from .053 of lift to .062 or so, for some improvement, but I had not gone on any long rides to get things really hot and test my lift improvements. I just got the bike out for spring, and during the winter I ordered a Motion Pro longitudinally wound cable, as davidd had suggested.
Not one to give up on a step by step plan, I remeasured the clutch lift with the old cable again and somehow over the winter it had lost a few thou and was down to .059. Not what I had but still better than .053. Fitting the new cable required some fettling since MP did not have the exact fittings required. I had to ease the inside of the cable abutment at the clutch end to 5/16, and file the cable end just a bit so it would go all the way to its seat in the abutment in the G50. The new cable after tweaking the adjustments again is giving me .068 lift, so a definite improvement over the spiral wound outer original. I went for a ride and all went well, but I still have to do a long one before I feel OK about things.
in Mid Winter I had sent the valve lifter cable to MP for an example and while removing it with the bike under its cover I heard a "tink" and my knurled cable abutment for that cable was no where to be found. I kept that in mind since I suspected it was in the chain recess and something in there can ruin your afternoon. It was too cold and dark mid winter to investigate but this spring I took my camera on a cable out, plugged it into my laptop and this is what I saw:
The thing was just the right size and in the right orientation to fit between the links and had made the circuit and was already on its way out, but no amount of turning the rear wheel gave away its hiding place or ejected it. It had found the perfect little spot in a bit of grease to hibernate for the winter, but like poking a bear out of its hole, I managed to get it back to it appointed duties.
Ron
Not one to give up on a step by step plan, I remeasured the clutch lift with the old cable again and somehow over the winter it had lost a few thou and was down to .059. Not what I had but still better than .053. Fitting the new cable required some fettling since MP did not have the exact fittings required. I had to ease the inside of the cable abutment at the clutch end to 5/16, and file the cable end just a bit so it would go all the way to its seat in the abutment in the G50. The new cable after tweaking the adjustments again is giving me .068 lift, so a definite improvement over the spiral wound outer original. I went for a ride and all went well, but I still have to do a long one before I feel OK about things.
in Mid Winter I had sent the valve lifter cable to MP for an example and while removing it with the bike under its cover I heard a "tink" and my knurled cable abutment for that cable was no where to be found. I kept that in mind since I suspected it was in the chain recess and something in there can ruin your afternoon. It was too cold and dark mid winter to investigate but this spring I took my camera on a cable out, plugged it into my laptop and this is what I saw:
The thing was just the right size and in the right orientation to fit between the links and had made the circuit and was already on its way out, but no amount of turning the rear wheel gave away its hiding place or ejected it. It had found the perfect little spot in a bit of grease to hibernate for the winter, but like poking a bear out of its hole, I managed to get it back to it appointed duties.
Ron
Morning Ron, If you are not happy with your Multi' After this, There is so much info' on the Standard Clutch on this Forum, You should be able to get one to work well. And a few mods' to the cover, To keep it Cool !.
I have found a Cover with built in Air Scoops, I thought it was a Proper Lightning, But can't find any photos with one fitted, So now thinking Slater ?, It's a very well made casting, Good quality Alloy. Good Luck, Bill.
I have found a Cover with built in Air Scoops, I thought it was a Proper Lightning, But can't find any photos with one fitted, So now thinking Slater ?, It's a very well made casting, Good quality Alloy. Good Luck, Bill.
Geez Bill those Amal carb's come with a key start.............
..........have you had any rear wheel lock-up's with that rear brake lever .........?
..........have you had any rear wheel lock-up's with that rear brake lever .........?
Hello greg, I thought it would give you a Laugh !!.
If I get stuck in Traffic, Which I do a lot here, Must move to Devon !!, I find the tickover goes a bit low, So a touch on the Carb' Key makes it better.
The rear brake works OK, It's only one drum, Worked fine when it was a L/ning rep', I use the front brake most.
Have Fun, Bill.
If I get stuck in Traffic, Which I do a lot here, Must move to Devon !!, I find the tickover goes a bit low, So a touch on the Carb' Key makes it better.
The rear brake works OK, It's only one drum, Worked fine when it was a L/ning rep', I use the front brake most.
Have Fun, Bill.