Starting Vincent Life with a Backfire!

nkt267

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I've got my mag repaired and removed the coil ignition,my Comet starts well and like others have lights via an Alton..My take on battery size with electronics or coil ignition is that you need at least enough battery capacity,+ a bit, to get you home from wherever you are without a working generator..John
 

Seán Ó Maoildeirg

Forum User
Non-VOC Member
You have not mentioned how you solved the problem of the flooding/leaking carb. I was just thinking that you might need a new gasket set for the 289 carb. A leaking mixing chamber will leak if it has been disturbed and only a new gasket set will cure the leak --- assuming there is not an issue with the float needle. Leaking carbs can lead to loss of the bike and might even leave you without your garage
 

KennyNUT

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Non-VOC Member
You have not mentioned how you solved the problem of the flooding/leaking carb. I was just thinking that you might need a new gasket set for the 289 carb. A leaking mixing chamber will leak if it has been disturbed and only a new gasket set will cure the leak --- assuming there is not an issue with the float needle. Leaking carbs can lead to loss of the bike and might even leave you without your garage

Hi see #23.

There was dirt or just poor mating of the surfaces causing non-sealing of the float needle at the base of the carb where the fuel enters. I cleaned it and lapped it in gently with some Brasso until the dull brass on the cone part of the needle was shiny, put it all back together and the fuel was then shutting off. Hopefully, my bikes and garage will remain intact into the future as no fuel now spills out of the carb onto the crankcases from my Comet. Thanks, K.
 

Chris Launders

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I would consider fitting a magneto if you can do it at a reasonable cost. A magneto should be many times more reliable than the miller charging system and if you do any night riding you will not at present really have enough charge to supply everything and the first to go will be your electronic ignition as the voltage drops. Another alternative is to uprate the charging system, about which an enormous amount has been discussed on the forum.
Chris.
 

chankly bore

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
The battery I use is a 12N9-4B. It is in a negative earth system. The "4B" bit means the live terminal is furthest from the petrol tank. It should fit your standard platform and strap with no modification. You can paint it black if it is not already so, just leaving a clear window for the level. Thinners will remove any nasty Japanese or Mongolian writing and you can decorate it with a "V.O.C." transfer when you join this Happy Band. F5AB/2A/7945 since 1970.
 

KennyNUT

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Many thanks again to one and all!

It's great to have a feeling of camaraderie through such support.

In the short term, I will make some effort to ride the bike before making any major decisions on changes to the ignition or charging system but I see some good ideas with batteries, Alton generators and magnetos. I will have a careful read through others experiences and look at how I use the bike and then decide what's best.

I have already joined the VOC and asked for full site privileges to see what else I can learn from your postings and experiences. I hope that gets processed soon.

The electrical side of these charming (you can tell I am happier!) old bikes is very interesting but the only major addition I would consider right now would be to add some LED 6V indicators and a switch, of course. Any suggested sources would be useful. I like the Oberon bar end indicators which are quite a tidy, subtle solution though they leave no room for a mirror.

The only other modification planned is that I have a Dave Hills stand for a Rapide, so am waiting on a different right hand plate from the man himself, will have it all powder coated and fitted soon.

Funny how this thread has gone from a backfiring, leaking carburettor to a running Comet whose next direction needs to be indicated with lights!

I cannot wait for my first proper ride out!!

I sense I may be in danger of becoming a Vincent fan.

Cheers, all.
 

Vince Farrell

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Many thanks again to one and all!


The only other modification planned is that I have a Dave Hills stand for a Rapide, so am waiting on a different right hand plate from the man himself, will have it all powder coated and fitted soon.

Cheers, all.

It's not that simple, the stand leg isn't the same on the twin and single.
 

KennyNUT

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Thanks, Plastic Beer. Dave Hills left two voicemails, so I will ring him back tomorrow and get the low down. If needs be I will sell the one for the Rapide. Its a steep learning curve.
 

b'knighted

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
The electrical side of these charming (you can tell I am happier!) old bikes is very interesting but the only major addition I would consider right now would be to add some LED 6V indicators and a switch, of course. Any suggested sources would be useful. I like the Oberon bar end indicators which are quite a tidy, subtle solution though they leave no room for a mirror.

Welcome , it's good to see you're now in blue.

If you are keeping the six volt setup, even temporarily, conserve your limited power by fitting LED pilot, rear and brake lights. If you go for an excessive wattage pilot bulb it will be adequate for daylight riding. I even use LED speedo bulbs. Try Paul Goff, another Vincent owner on http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/ or check out ebay.
12v equivalents are worth fitting, especially if you go the Alton route.

Cheers,
 

Chris Launders

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
When I got my twin it was fitted with an Alton generator but this seemed very poor, it turned ouut to be an early 3 phase one, I spoke to Paul Hamon and he said he would do me a part exchange for a modern single phase one for £ 140 plus I would need a new regulator as well. This seemed to be a bit expensive to me and involved sending things to France and back so I looked around and found a firm called Hawker Electrical who did a rebuild kit for a Lucas dynamo for
£ 103 this consisted of new field coil, armature, bearings and brushes in 6v or 12v. I rebuilt an scrappy old 60w dynamo and fitted it with an electronic regulator, done 5000 miles now, lights are great not the slightest charging problem.
Unfortunately Hawker seem to have stopped trading but found a firm called Feked who supply all the same parts seperately, have just rebuilt another dynamo for my SS100 replica and everything seems to well made and fits perfectly.
Chris
 
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