Restoring the last of the series "A" Comets.

John Oakes

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Hi greg in response to some of your points further up I have taken some snaps of the rear clamps on the spring box, black dyno strap and black rear hub. regards john
vin1 low res.jpg
vin2 lowres.jpg
Vin3 low res.jpg
Vin4 low res.jpg
 

greg brillus

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Hi there John thanks for the photos great detail. Looks like your hubs are the later iron pattern ones like we have on this bike I'm doing. It looks like the fold over lugs under the front of your seat have come away, you might need to remove the seat and fold them over more. Look at your second picture to see what I mean. Cheers...........Greg.
 

greg brillus

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Ok looking at details on carburetor parts now.......were they a painted finish like the post war carb's, was the float bowl brass or the mazac type alloy this is for the correct body carb as in type 29/011 and the carb body is mazac not brass. Plus I have been asked about the original rubber insulated wiring used, does anyone know where to obtain it if it is available and what colours can it be bought in........Does anyone supply original type wiring looms for these early bikes.....? Cheer's in advance.............Greg.
 

TouringGodet

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I, too, am interested in a source of rubber insulated wiring, black of course, as used on post war Vincents.
 

Dinny

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I think the correct carb for the comet is an 89/011 and it's made of brass. I'm on the lookout for one if anyone has one in a box of bits somewhere?

Cheers
Mark
 

greg brillus

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Yes, I'm not too sure on the carb as the one I have here has the body made of mazac alloy. It is possible that the earlier singles had brass body carb's and the later ones in alloy. I feel there were a few changes happening over the whole manufacturing spectrum at that time. Even bolt threads, electroplating and so on were slowly changing. Looking at the pre-war bikes most all frame parts were held with Cycle thread bolts, whereas post-war it changed to mostly BSF. Though I think it came down to manufacturer choice a lot of the time. Like BSA's kept cycle threads way after the war. I remember that some types of wiring used in the marine game seem to resemble the rubber coated wiring, not sure where I read that, but I might enquire about it.
 

Simon Dinsdale

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The correct carb for Series A Comet is 89/011. I have only ever seen these in brass, along with a pre war brass float bowl. The carb body and float bowl were purchased seperately for my bike, but both have been plated with what I would call a type of satin chrome. I don't know if this is the original finish.

Simon
 

Sakura

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The easiest and safest long term solution to replicating rubber covered wire is to use modern plastic wiring covered in heat shrink. No risk of the rubber perishing and it's easy to keep track of the circuits by colour. The heat shrink is indistinguishable from rubber.
 

Gene Nehring

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The correct carb for Series A Comet is 89/011. I have only ever seen these in brass, along with a pre war brass float bowl. The carb body and float bowl were purchased seperately for my bike, but both have been plated with what I would call a type of satin chrome. I don't know if this is the original finish.

Simon
Simon,

I believe pre-war nickel only.
 
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