Restoring the last of the series "A" Comets.

[davidd]

Steve,

Along with full wiring harnesses for C and D machines, Rhode Island Wiring also sells supplies for vintage machines.

http://www.riwire.com/

That harnes looked fine in the "barn." That obviously happened in the sun light!

David

 

[greg brillus]

Original wiring looms in classic British aircraft used rubber insulated wiring. I remember when we restored two of the same aircraft, on the second one we had to replace about 50% of the wiring, I only wished I'd kept the old stuff now as the wire that was bundled and covered was in perfect condition when you removed this outer covering. It was only the exposed ends that had suffered the elements. I'm sure some could be tracked down somehow, but all that wiring has been well superseded with more up to date stuff now, though it could be found in many spare old fuselage and engine nacelles that lay unused at the back of old hangars and museums perhaps..........Maybe the modern silicon type is a better whilst still accurate alternative, and available in many colours.

 

[stevee]

I think the correct carb for the comet is an 89/011 and it's made of brass. I'm on the lookout for one if anyone has one in a box of bits somewhere?

Cheers
Mark

Burlen can obviously supply new - the specification for the 1939 Comet is (I believe)

Amal 289/011
1 & 1/8" internal bore
Main jet 4/042-180
Needle jet 29/076-106
Throttle valve 29/0623
Float chamber 14/069 15 degrees
With the double feed banjo

- can these be nickle plated?

 

[Simon Dinsdale]

Burlen can obviously supply new - the specification for the 1939 Comet is (I believe)

Amal 289/011
1 & 1/8" internal bore
Main jet 4/042-180
Needle jet 29/076-106
Throttle valve 29/0623
Float chamber 14/069 15 degrees
With the double feed banjo

- can these be nickle plated?

The Amal 289 is the later post war series B & C Shadow and Comet carb. If you look the type 89 is slightly different with 4 holes around the lower part of the body where the pilot jet breaths through. A 289 can be used on a series A but if originality is what you are after then it is slightly different to the 89.

 

[stevee]

The Amal 289 is the later post war series B & C Shadow and Comet carb. If you look the type 89 is slightly different with 4 holes around the lower part of the body where the pilot jet breaths through. A 289 can be used on a series A but if originality is what you are after then it is slightly different to the 89.

Damn - ordered wrong one! I thought it seemed too easy - teach me to believe a well known independent carb shop.
Anyone interested in an exchange?

 

[greg brillus]

They do come up on Ebay and swap meets from time to time, but they are not all made of brass, the one I have here is mazac (alloy) same numbers and same 4 holes at the base of the carb body, if I find another I'll let you know. It looks like the carb's with the extra holes are mostly all pre-war and they did away afterward probably to help keep dirty air out as well.

 

[stevee]

They do come up on Ebay and swap meets from time to time, but they are not all made of brass, the one I have here is mazac (alloy) same numbers and same 4 holes at the base of the carb body, if I find another I'll let you know. It looks like the carb's with the extra holes are mostly all pre-war and they did away afterward probably to help keep dirty air out as well.

Thanks Greg
Much appreciated

 

[Chris Launders]

Type 89 were also fitted on postwar AJS/Matchless 500cc singles for some reason for a period,
I have a Mazac body I picked up the other month at an autojumble with the jet block (number 10) in and most of the silver paint still on, stamped 89/0 (then a 0 and a 1 stamped together) 4, all threads are good but there may be a plug missing opposite the pilot air screw, if they had one.
If you're interested PM me.

 

[Chris Launders]

Forgot to say it's 1.110" bore and the flange is not bowed.

 

[greg brillus]

I have examined several similar carb's with the lower 4 holes around the base and they all seem to have the open "Pilot hole" on the other side to the mixture screw, though some are smaller than others.