Misc: Oil Oil For Rapide

[LoneStar]

showed greater scar resistance

Where is this comparison data to be found?

 

[nigsey]

This oil is formulated for our old engines. It rated very high in scar testing.

CASTROL CLASSIC XL 20W-50

<p><strong>Castrol Classic XL 20W-50</strong> is a conventional multigrade engine oil of good all-around performance, formulated with high-quality mineral oils plus selected additives. This 20w50 engine oil is precision-engineered for older technology and classic car engines that demand higher...

www.broughtonlubricants.co.uk

Glen

I use Castrol Classic 20w-50 and I’m happy with it.

 

[KDJ]

For those curious, here's a couple links showing how some popular oils stack up on the ZDDP front:

https://www.hermit.cc/tmc/om/html/oil_z.htm

ZDDP Content Chart - High Zinc Oil List - Brand Breakdown

Our ZDDP oil list covers conventional, synthetic, and diesel oil zinc content levels to help you determine the best oil for your engine's needs.

www.speedwaymotors.com

And for those that really want to go down the rabbit hole: https://www.accessnorton.com/Oil-Tests/NortonOil.php

 

[nigsey]

Danno, I know you have not got the stuff for playing,
After many years you will !,
But If you must use the standard breather,
For me, I would make the pipe go upwards from the alloy bolt ,
With a longer rubber pipe to the top of the engine then down.
The first bit of pipe is metal for about 5 ", Then a rubber pipe goes out under the mag' cowl ,
And pokes through a hole on the prop stand plate.

You can see it in the first photo I sent you , A 71S.
It's not easy because the metal pipe is shaped,
If you could find a straight fitting to go where the alloy bolt goes in ,
It would be easy,
I am thinking an old carb' Banjo ?.

The standard pipe going down, Even if there is only mist, Will turn into a drip.

After two years of ownership I have surrendered to the elephant trunk breather. I had leaks all over the place with the standard breather but with the bigger hose coming off the mag cover and threaded up and over the engine the leaks have completely stopped. Added to that there’s reduced oil consumption, my drip tray is redundant and there’s less cleaning to do after a ride, so what’s not to like, oh yes, it’s not very pretty. Nigel

 

[Bill Thomas]

Nigel, Have you seen the new ones from the Spares Company,
Very Flash, But a lot of money.

 

[nigsey]

Nigel, Have you seen the new ones from the Spares Company,
Very Flash, But a lot of money.

Yes Bill, they look very posh but I was given mine by a friend for free, it’s has a ball inside that acts as a valve, makes a bit of an odd plopping sound but I’ve reduced that by putting a compressor silencer on the end of the hose.

 

[danno]

Slowly getting around to changing the oil. Have bought a cheap oil can which is useful for prepping certain areas.
I notice there’s a paper filter available but I have the felt type which hasn’t been cleaned in years. Haven’t done many miles on this oil though.
Sticking with straight 40 but not sure if the primary chain case needs a change. No drain plug on that.

 

[Bill Thomas]

For just an oil change I don't think you will get an air lock ?,
But after changing a main filter , I would go for a paper one,
The felt one was not good idea, YUK, Just my thoughts !!!!!.

Don't tell anyone but I use nothing !,
After blowing up a few Vincents, I find the rubbish is all round the engine anyway ?.

But to refill the oil chamber " after " putting a paper filter in,
There is a long bolt just below the ATD Cover on the Timing case, If you take that out,
You could lean the bike over to the left and with your oil can squirt through that hole until it's full.

Nice to use a new washer under the long bolt head,
We don't want any oil leaks !.

Forgive my Rubbish with Paint, I am useless ! .

There is no drain on a Twin Primary Case,
If you turn the engine over a few times on the Kickstart, With the valve lifter up,
And look at the top run of the chain, You should see if the oil is clean ?,
If it is, I would leave well alone.

 

[danno]

But to refill the oil chamber " after " putting a paper filter in,
There is a long bolt just below the ATD Cover on the Timing case, If you take that out,
You could lean the bike over to the left and with your oil can squirt through that hole until it's full.

Good idea, thanks.

 

[Normski]

For changing the oil in the primary chain case I use an oil suction gun/syringe to suck out the old oil. Others drill into the thread of one of the lower casing screws so that oil drains when that screw is removed.