Misc: Oil Oil For Rapide

danno

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Hi
I need to buy some oil for the Rapide. Realize it’s off original topic but would like to do the suggested refill and see if I can keep more of it in the bike.
Have had a look through some older threads and didn’t realize that multigrade is suitable. Have always bought Comma Classic straight 40 although my dad did try Mobil One once but I think it was too thin.
I’ve always used straight 40 for the gearbox too.
Any suggestions appreciated.
 

Bill Thomas

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I would keep using the 40 in summer and 30 winter,
Must admit I do like something thicker in the gearbox, 80 or 90.
Any ideas where the oil is leaking from ?.
Maybe we could help if we had a clue.

I get a lot of my stuff from feked.com
 

danno

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I would keep using the 40 in summer and 30 winter,
Must admit I do like something thicker in the gearbox, 80 or 90.
Any ideas where the oil is leaking from ?.
Maybe we could help if we had a clue.

I get a lot of my stuff from feked.com
Thanks.
Tends to leak under the engine when not being used. Have never drained the sump though.
After being on a run then mostly where shown in previous pic on mag cover but also from the corner of the dynamo cover. New gasket might help there.
There no visible leaks at the top end.
 

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Bill Thomas

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The Dyno' cover should be easy,
Take off the 4 screws a put a bit of non setting sealer each side of the gasket and as I have said a touch
of non setting sealer under the heads of the screws.

The Mag' Cowl one could be coming out the joint between the head and Barrel,
Tricky , Oil has been known to go up one of the head studs and out the joint.
Dry it off with Carb' cleaner and check after a ride ?.
 

danno

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Have tightened the crankcase bolts I can see. Two of them at the mag cover have earth wires attached but could re route those. Needed tightening anyway along with the ones underneath.
A 1/4 WT spanner (whatever that is) fits these but I don’t have a socket that size for nut F which is recessed.
Imperial 1/2” fits ok though but is a little tight on the others.
The engine breather I take it is a mechanical device inside the front of the engine block. Not much I could do there other than take off the pipe bolt and check if clear.
Pic shows oil build up on the barrel and the earth wires on the crankcase nuts.
 

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Bill Thomas

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Danno, I know you have not got the stuff for playing,
After many years you will !,
But If you must use the standard breather,
For me, I would make the pipe go upwards from the alloy bolt ,
With a longer rubber pipe to the top of the engine then down.
The first bit of pipe is metal for about 5 ", Then a rubber pipe goes out under the mag' cowl ,
And pokes through a hole on the prop stand plate.

You can see it in the first photo I sent you , A 71S.
It's not easy because the metal pipe is shaped,
If you could find a straight fitting to go where the alloy bolt goes in ,
It would be easy,
I am thinking an old carb' Banjo ?.

The standard pipe going down, Even if there is only mist, Will turn into a drip.
 

Monkeypants

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This oil is formulated for our old engines. It rated very high in scar testing.

Glen
 
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TouringGodet

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Hopefully the Castrol GTX Classic available in the US has similar properties.
 
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Monkeypants

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Unfortunately the US version didn't exist when the scar testing was done. The chemical compositions of the UK and US versions are very similar, though not identical.

I've been having trouble finding Valvoline VR1 at a reasonable price here, so I stocked up on the Castrol GTX Classic instead.
The UK Castrol Classic XL showed greater scar resistance than the VR1, which was already quite good.
The UK Castrol product also had a much lower friction level than the VR1.

Glen
 
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