E: Engine Comet for the 2020's
- Thread starter vibrac
- Start date
I say chaps we do collect a lot of interesting STUFF, you show me yours and I'll show you mine, wonderful as it gives so much food for thought.
bananaman.
bananaman.
I have almost finalised my what I am pleased to call my 'Martin G' seat support in that the seat support has a separate stay from around the middle of the sloping stay to the RFM and attaches to the 3/8" through spindle where the spring boxes would be had I not got a coil over AVO. In my case, I am using steel tube and will braze up each side in a sort of T frame. I am happy to see that the longer seat and the standard seat both fit without support alteration. the sloping stay fits on the fourth top hole from the rear along the footrest plate (in my case the Hills stand plate) which has been liberally drilled to reduce its weight
Be sure the RFM does NOT hit the new seat stays during movement. Best way to check is with the rear shock n springs removed.
I have set it up with a fixed stay with hole centers at the absolute minimum distance given for the AVO coil over and clearance for the seat I intend before brazing to remove the spring to double check the unit is to spec however I belive the minimum distance figure given me I includes some almost incompressible in static mode rubber bush compression so there should be plenty of clearance my big worry is ride height I don't want to emulate some of my modern riding bike heights
Moving to the front in preparation for the forks and the new steering stem I am fitting a couple of old racing alloy brake plates in place of the steel ones. My experience of alloy plates is mainly track orientated so I had no speedo to worry about
Taking the speedo drive off the steel plates the gear did not pass through the hole in the plate ,I cant recall if it was intended too, but I think not, since there is/was enough clearance because of the thinness of the steel plate to remove the speedo gear split pin after the two retaining screws were removed. (The speedo gear is a black nylon gear)
When I come to fit the gear again in the aluminum plate the plate is obviously too thick to allow me to refit the split pin in that manner so the gear needs to be fitted to the spindle with the split pin before the assembly is passed through the alloy plate and the drive secured. the gear and the hole in the alloy plate have a 1/16th interference my inclination is to skim 1/32 off the tips of the nylon gear rather than open the aluminum hole especially as the securing holes are so close to the hole edge and the speedo brass casting has a raised rim that sits in the hole. has anyone else found this hole/gear problem with alloy plates?
Taking the speedo drive off the steel plates the gear did not pass through the hole in the plate ,I cant recall if it was intended too, but I think not, since there is/was enough clearance because of the thinness of the steel plate to remove the speedo gear split pin after the two retaining screws were removed. (The speedo gear is a black nylon gear)
When I come to fit the gear again in the aluminum plate the plate is obviously too thick to allow me to refit the split pin in that manner so the gear needs to be fitted to the spindle with the split pin before the assembly is passed through the alloy plate and the drive secured. the gear and the hole in the alloy plate have a 1/16th interference my inclination is to skim 1/32 off the tips of the nylon gear rather than open the aluminum hole especially as the securing holes are so close to the hole edge and the speedo brass casting has a raised rim that sits in the hole. has anyone else found this hole/gear problem with alloy plates?
I recently swapped out the original front brake plates on my Rapide with lightning style ones. The (used) VOC nylon speedo gear was a snug fit through the hole but did pass through.
I would turn the gear down to fit.
I would turn the gear down to fit.
Only time I had a problem with the speedo drive gear not going through the brake plate is with one of the black plastic ones. I just put it in the lathe and took 10 thou of the tops of the teeth.
Tim my handsome, I'm sure you have the ability to file a little larger hole to the size of the spigot of the mounting plate, the gear wheel is meant to go through the hole, once you cut the teeth down it's less time of using as it will wear more quickly !
bananaman,
bananaman,