The weight of an AVO coil over damper is 2.3 kg.
F: Frame Coil Over Damper
- Thread starter erik
- Start date
Indeed, the price of these fastace shocks is very attractive. But then hunting for a company to supply extra springs to my needs - maybe more often than once - is definitely NOT attractive for me. Also no progressive type on these so the old rubber buffer on rod - stone age and limiting range. As to weight, see photos below of my shortened Fournales , no oil inside yet , so an extra 100 g to add to 650 grams without ss shroud. Progressiveness in damping is super easy to get by having more oil inside , so air volume is less, resulting in very progressive "spring" load in the air shock nearing full compression - in case you do hard racing.
Within limits you can modify hydraulic behaviours by changing oil grades when undoing the Schrader valve and change oil. Sure, there is no dial setting of hydraulics on these but I believe once you arrived at your desired settings and oil grades - which is no rocket science - you just check air pressure for expected loads. I do not see excessive importance on dampers in racing as when it comes to very fast oscillations like ripples in the road any damper plus all components connected to it cannot possibly fight this condition by itself. Masses are just far to big with all components added up, so in real life tires and air pressures will have to deal with these smaller but fvery ast inputs from roads.
And another nicety is the almost standard looks of the Fournales when you have shrouds in black fitted on them to go on Vincents, great for prewar types as well. They go at same place like the spring boxes when you slim down end caps for clearance to castings of rear frame. Yes, looks of coil-overs on prewar and 1940ies machines just don´t look right and don´t fit the spirit of real classics . One can ask what "classic" racing is all about when Vincents and all get modified today into a state to become almost unidentifyable with alu frames, teles, brand new engines with secret internals nobody wants to talk about in details, - whatever. They are rather close then to fake Vincents, prewar BMWs and all, so the spectators and competitors are fooled in some way into believing they see real classics. Not my world any more, this has been funracing but turned into big money spending for certain characters of riders pushing their egos by fighting wars on the track for top places - in races where nothing is earned . . .
I made alu end caps at home exactly as I liked them for the Vincents, can do on mill and lathe. But I cannot do special coil springs at home - and I remember all these stories here about versions depending on rider weight, tire sizes , ride height and all. Tells me that by going for air shocks I can spare me most of frustrations by having types for modifying at home with simple actions like air pressure, oil grades, even valve drillings in alu piston inside in case I could not get satisfaction still.
Anyway, I believe this approach could be worthwhile to look into for having specials made by Fournales as they are used to do lots of very different types for all thinkable businesses. When I start with the Brampton type shocks I can post some more sizes then but don´t see problems there, just still a design for lower bracket has to be fixed.
Vic
Within limits you can modify hydraulic behaviours by changing oil grades when undoing the Schrader valve and change oil. Sure, there is no dial setting of hydraulics on these but I believe once you arrived at your desired settings and oil grades - which is no rocket science - you just check air pressure for expected loads. I do not see excessive importance on dampers in racing as when it comes to very fast oscillations like ripples in the road any damper plus all components connected to it cannot possibly fight this condition by itself. Masses are just far to big with all components added up, so in real life tires and air pressures will have to deal with these smaller but fvery ast inputs from roads.
And another nicety is the almost standard looks of the Fournales when you have shrouds in black fitted on them to go on Vincents, great for prewar types as well. They go at same place like the spring boxes when you slim down end caps for clearance to castings of rear frame. Yes, looks of coil-overs on prewar and 1940ies machines just don´t look right and don´t fit the spirit of real classics . One can ask what "classic" racing is all about when Vincents and all get modified today into a state to become almost unidentifyable with alu frames, teles, brand new engines with secret internals nobody wants to talk about in details, - whatever. They are rather close then to fake Vincents, prewar BMWs and all, so the spectators and competitors are fooled in some way into believing they see real classics. Not my world any more, this has been funracing but turned into big money spending for certain characters of riders pushing their egos by fighting wars on the track for top places - in races where nothing is earned . . .
I made alu end caps at home exactly as I liked them for the Vincents, can do on mill and lathe. But I cannot do special coil springs at home - and I remember all these stories here about versions depending on rider weight, tire sizes , ride height and all. Tells me that by going for air shocks I can spare me most of frustrations by having types for modifying at home with simple actions like air pressure, oil grades, even valve drillings in alu piston inside in case I could not get satisfaction still.
Anyway, I believe this approach could be worthwhile to look into for having specials made by Fournales as they are used to do lots of very different types for all thinkable businesses. When I start with the Brampton type shocks I can post some more sizes then but don´t see problems there, just still a design for lower bracket has to be fixed.
Vic
More over, and in short.
The shocks, mounted in the middle, are fixed with a bolt, which is stressed on bending. both under, and specially on the UFM!!!
It will do this, after the first big bump. Even a 12.9 bolt bends.
No harm done if you now and than check this ERIK.
Cheers
V
The shocks, mounted in the middle, are fixed with a bolt, which is stressed on bending. both under, and specially on the UFM!!!
It will do this, after the first big bump. Even a 12.9 bolt bends.
No harm done if you now and than check this ERIK.
Cheers
V
On the rear it really should have one either side, this would work well with shrouds to hide the springs.......And because they are on the outer, they would be easier to adjust for solo or 2 up riding........A racer is a different kettle of fish........First thing you do is add 2 spacers between the UFM tubes and the back of the actual oil tank to add strength here.......the bike carries less overall weight and the chance of the rear shocker bottoming out is not likely at all.
Hi Erik,
I am running the rear AVO with a 275 spring, works well and no complaints on quality.
I am 100 kilos and allowed 30 kilos of luggage no pillion use.
I am set at minimal pre load and damping at 4 clicks no bottoming out and is moving and working well.
Al
I am running the rear AVO with a 275 spring, works well and no complaints on quality.
I am 100 kilos and allowed 30 kilos of luggage no pillion use.
I am set at minimal pre load and damping at 4 clicks no bottoming out and is moving and working well.
Al
I think Vincent is referring to the top mount, just behind the rear of the oil tank and is suggesting that something which is a tight fit behind the back wall of the oil tank and the front of the cross tube will transfer the load to the whole of the rear of the tank and prevent any stud and tube bending.
thats The way to do it, no one does however....