Must be the Speet manual! Mine I think were the second or third set you made and I recall you said you had never seen the wide bearing setup before that, and they didn't come with no stinkin manual!
Mind you they work REALLY well!
H: Hubs, Wheels and Tyres Alloy brake plate dimensions Help….
- Thread starter Cyborg
- Start date
Mind you they work REALLY well!
You are right yes, sorry for not sending later Robert.
But we never complain, we solve and ride on
But we never complain, we solve and ride on
My old spares book shows Front Ribbed, On the Shadow 2 and 2 on the L/ning, H1/6F.
But for some reason ONLY the Flash has H1/6F/1.
For me I fitted alloy plates on standard ribbed drums, As in my Photo,
So the lip is on the plate ?.
But for some reason ONLY the Flash has H1/6F/1.
For me I fitted alloy plates on standard ribbed drums, As in my Photo,
So the lip is on the plate ?.
Following good engineering, Phil would not machine down the outer rib, as it s stronger against cracking, but had it into the brake plate, also effective as water, debriss excluder.
Than again, I don't know...
Than again, I don't know...
Ken, I found the H55.
That is certainly a larger lump than I thought it would be. So the shoulder presses into the hub and the ID of the H55 snugs up to the OD of the inner bearing race.
The outside of the H55 sits more or less flush with the outside if the inner race depending on thickness of shims… if I read it correctly.
So… the OD of the H55 is not critical, just has to be larger than the OD of the outer race and smaller than the OD of the hub.
the ID of the H55 should be a slip fit ( give or take) on the OD of the inner race.
The depth of the shoulder on the H55 is determined by the depth from the end of the hub to the edge of the cage for the rollers, because the cage sits higher than the outer race. Allowing space for shimming.
The OD of the shoulder would be a slight press fit into the hub.
Assuming I have it straight, then the shoulder in your photo looks a little thick. Maybe just the way it appears in the photo? Or the H55 was supposed to be trimmed to fit? Or yours was meant to go with the dreaded narrow bearings?
If you could tell me ( please and thank you) how thick that outer flange is…..
Total thickness of the of the H55
and total thickness of the inner flange that goes around the inner race,
Then I can figure out the rest.
ps… is that more or less the way the nilos seals work? Press into the ID of the hub and seal against the inner race?
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I thought I passed the info along to you in 2020, but I am not sure I did. The holes are dead easy as they are all 2.75" from the axle hole center. I cast up rear plates, but except for the edge treatment, the dimensions are the same.
I think I mounted it in the lathe, bored the axle hole and then put a "V" shape on the outside edge.
Milled the to the thickness of the original plate, which I have. The five remaining holes are all equidistant from the axle hole center at 2.75".
The original plates had a figure 8 shape rather than the full-size pad I used.
I used this on the right-side rear of the racer, so I used the lower anchor pad for the single anchor hole. No sense carrying around extra parts.
David
I think I mounted it in the lathe, bored the axle hole and then put a "V" shape on the outside edge.
Milled the to the thickness of the original plate, which I have. The five remaining holes are all equidistant from the axle hole center at 2.75".
The original plates had a figure 8 shape rather than the full-size pad I used.
I used this on the right-side rear of the racer, so I used the lower anchor pad for the single anchor hole. No sense carrying around extra parts.
David
David,
I recall having a discussion about them and still have the photos you sent and it was likely you that told me what the bolt circle is, that rings a bell. A few days ago, I did a search through my emails and I couldn’t find any drawings or dimensions. You could have sent them, but I don’t recall seeing them. Normally I would print those types of things and put them in the Lightning knockoff folder. However…. I am operating under a new normal plus …. our internet/ email provider “improved” things, by morphing my email into gmail, so they can blackmail me into paying for cloud space….so it could be just about anywhere.
I just have enough anchors coming to do 1 per plate and only using 1 plate on the rear.
I think it is only the locations of the various mating surfaces on the inside of the plate… relative to whatever is used for datum. The shoe pivots etc will tell me how thick the bosses need to be.
I just found an old hub and a used wide bearing, so have enough to jig things together once I shave away the part of the plate that mates up to the drum OD.
Did you use a H27/1AS cam bushings steady sleeve on the rear?
I recall having a discussion about them and still have the photos you sent and it was likely you that told me what the bolt circle is, that rings a bell. A few days ago, I did a search through my emails and I couldn’t find any drawings or dimensions. You could have sent them, but I don’t recall seeing them. Normally I would print those types of things and put them in the Lightning knockoff folder. However…. I am operating under a new normal plus …. our internet/ email provider “improved” things, by morphing my email into gmail, so they can blackmail me into paying for cloud space….so it could be just about anywhere.
I just have enough anchors coming to do 1 per plate and only using 1 plate on the rear.
I think it is only the locations of the various mating surfaces on the inside of the plate… relative to whatever is used for datum. The shoe pivots etc will tell me how thick the bosses need to be.
I just found an old hub and a used wide bearing, so have enough to jig things together once I shave away the part of the plate that mates up to the drum OD.
Did you use a H27/1AS cam bushings steady sleeve on the rear?