I just looked out one of the new brake plates. They are no use to you as the inside design is very different. I found an original Electron one and measured the thickness of the central hole. It has been used with a felt seal and there is some wear but the mean of several measure is 0.37". The central thickness of a new one is 0,35"
Thanks for that. I have a copy of a drawing for different brake plates and the thickness is .328”. The hub, hollow axle, bearing, and seals were shipped a few days ago, so hopefully they will make it through the Xmas rush. I think I’ll just glean what information I can from the steel plate and then set the hub/drum assembly up and figure out whatever info is missing. I have a supply of playdough on hand if it becomes necessary. I have the loan of a jig to determine where the holes go, so more convenient than the rotary table. The jig is a work of art. I bored the hole for the speedo gearbox and threaded the holes for the speedo mounting plate. While I’m waiting, I can make the brake pivot and anchor holes. The one for the brake cam will have to wait until the bushings arrive, so I can figure out what size it needs to be.… then machine the bosses for everything once I know the dimensions.
I made a mandrel to fit in a collet mounted in the lathe so I can turn the OD and area that interfaces with the drum. It can be used again later on to turn the shoes. Think I’m going to weld a flange onto the shoulder and then turn it. To give more support and surface area against the plate so less likely to rotate on the mandrel.
If you see any stupidity going on here, feel free to point it out.
ps… I think the jig was intended to be used during the machining process, but I just made up two centre punches that slip into the holes.
Centre punch the locations and then use a centre finder in the mill.