Misc: Everything Else 1951 Black Shadow Restoration

craig

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VOC Member
Your first ride is very familiar. The nylon pinion with center melted is not pretty. I went to the original steel drive pinion and have not had any trouble since.
Thanks Oldhaven
Did you leave out the steel ET164 shield?
Did you use the Alton steel sprocket PD15/1?
If you had a nylon/delrin type sprocket would you use it?
the ET164 shield has a purpose of directing dripping case oil away from opening, did you add any sealing to the Alton/primary opening?

20210922_SteelAltonSprocket.jpg
 

craig

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Prefitted the Alton with trying for the best sprocket engagement, then looked at my clearance without ET164 shield ring. Appeared to be a pretty large clearance all around.

20210922_153800.jpg


Then prefitted ET164 and checked clearance, I could slip an .007" flat blade at tightest spot (small radius for this flat blade), smeared some three bond on Et164 and fitted.

20210922_ET164AltonHubClearance.jpg


Then fitted the sprocket to recheck engagement.
I am using a plastic sprocket i had in my inventory.

20210922_AltonToothEngagement.jpg
 

Oldhaven

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‘Actually there is more to the story. I put the steel pinion in for a short while until I could get another delrin pinion, based on the belief that plastic would be better for the middle row of rollers. i did not use the oil thrower and use a ring of black mastic to seal the Alton face. A couple of years later, same symptoms, pulled off the cover and:



That was when I went to the original steel PD15 and oil thrower setup for good.
 

craig

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Seemed to me the Alton plastic sprocket teeth would be "batted" off in short order with excessive clearance, so i choose fairly close engagement. Loctite 243 the center screw. Sticking with the plastic sprocket for now.

Making progress today.
So how much oil goes in the primary case?
About 12oz maybe a bit more.

20210922_ProgressToday.jpg


Reattached wiring in junction box hidden in Miller Regulator.
20210922_AltonPodtronicsJunction.jpg
 
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craig

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VOC Member
Going with red Loctite for the C4, C5/1 assembly.

20210922_C3AssemblyC4C5.jpg


Shaft holding tools from suspension shop worked very well in holding C5.
Torqued to one grunt.
20210922_185435.jpg
 
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Gene Nehring

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VOC Member
I agree with Bill. That plastic pinion is very deep in mesh. Is there any backlash at all?
TT I don't want to high jack the tread and the question relates. Where, when and how do you use the PD19 shims. I don't see a good explanation in the parts book or riders hand book.

Best,

Gene.
 

timetraveller

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VOC Member
Hi Gene, I have never seen a PD19 and in fact had to look them up on the Club Shop web site to see what they looked like. Could they be intended for use on a single? I cannot see that they can be used on a twin. The drive system has two holes for the pins in PD17AS so I cannot imagine where a washer/spacer like the Club Shop picture could go. I have seen thin metal plate shims under the dynamo cradle to increase the height of the dynamo on a few bikes. When Dick Sherwin and I were developing the car alternator kit, known as the 'Walkernator' now, I had to spend a lot of time on the drives as this system can produce up to either 30 or 40 amps, depending upon the alternator used and I was worried about whether the original drive system could take it. About eighty are in use and there have been no failures of the drive system that I am aware of. I would not trust a plastic drive sprocket with one of these kits. My worry about the tightness of the mesh with the way that Craig has set his up is that I think that there will be some 'throw' of the triplex chain from its sprocket and I cannot see that there is anywhere for that to go. When I set up one of my systems I always ensure that the dynamo drive sprocket can rock backwards and forwards significantly. No doubt we will hear eventually how Craig gets on with his bike. Sorry but this time I am stumped.
 
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