• Welcome to the website of the Vincent H.R.D. Owners Club.

    Should you have any questions relating to the Vincent H.R.D. Owners Club, or Vincent H.R.D. motorcycles in general, please contact Graham Smith, Hon. Editor and Webmaster by calling 07977 001 025 or please CLICK HERE.

    You are unrecognised, and therefore, only have VERY restricted access to the many features of this website.

    If you have previously registered to use this forum, you should log in now. CLICK HERE.

    If you have never registered to use this website before, please CLICK HERE.

Misc: Everything Else 1951 Black Shadow Restoration

craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
20201220_ProjectShadow51.jpg

I was offered a Black Shadow project in 2013. I purchased the project and immediately started work on it.
Took the cylinders and heads to local Vincent machinist only 3 hrs away.
Crankshaft had been completed ,prior to my purchase, by a Canadian expert and also the tank was painted and done by "Bones".
Then, another Vincent project came up, Then a buddy stopped by and said" Go buy a BMW and lets travel the USA".
Then I got a wild hair and wanted to do the Trans America Trail (TAT). So I purchased a Husqvarna 701E and proceeded to farkle it out for the off road journey. So the Shadow was boxed up for another day.

All that behind, I am now focused on this Shadow project.
The pic above shows the big stuff with a thousand other pieces and projects in boxes.

My goal is a street friendly Black Shadow to ride on a semi daily basis, couple times a week.
 
Last edited:

craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
It appears to me the only ability to adjust the gap on an Alton install,
shown above as 0.090", would be the ability to move the pre installed shaft hub.
This Alton shaft hub does not appear to be movable.
So the "gap" is fixed gap for each Vincent twin install.

20210421_AltonHubAdjust.jpg


So this 0.090" gap must be pretty standard fare for Vincent twin.

20210421_altonfitup1-jpg.41710
 
Last edited:

craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I am still actively trying to fit a rear lift handle to this project Shadow.
What dimensions would fit this lift FT22AS handle ?

A is the inside dimension between the tabs and would be the same as the width of the rear fender hinge.

B is tab 1/4 hole closest to handle down to the mount 3/8 hole, center to center.



MO37LiftHandle.jpg
 
Last edited:

Shane998

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I am still actively trying to fit a rear lift handle to this project Shadow.
What dimensions would fit this lift FT22AS handle ?

A is the inside dimension between the tabs and would be the same as the width of the rear fender hinge.

B is tab 1/4 hole closest to handle down to the mount 3/8 hole, center to center.



View attachment 41785
Craig the hinge I have here is 5 3/4 the distance between tabs is basically the same allowing for them to pull in slightly when fitted The measurement B I have is 14 7/8. I believe these parts are original
 

Attachments

  • B9FA4641-BEF0-43B1-8314-C794D4175B88.jpeg
    B9FA4641-BEF0-43B1-8314-C794D4175B88.jpeg
    371.4 KB · Views: 8

craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I made progress today mounting the lift handle, rear mud guard, wiring thru lift handle.
Lift handle was fighting me, I had to remount the rear alloy mud guard section.
The remount consisted of enlarging the five holes on the rear section fender sheet metal to enable shifting to the left a small amount.


20210501_RFMProgress1.jpg
 
Last edited:

craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I received a BSA sprocket locking washer for use on this 21T sprocket. I forget where i read this lock washer was suitable , but i am looking at it now. It appears you need to knock the locking tines flat so they grab the needed G4 splines for locking a Vincent sprocket.
Is this BSA lock washer mod common knowledge?

20210502_SprocketLock2.jpg
 

craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
KTB - The nut often loosens because the sprocket tends to rock on its splines and it is best locked by means of a BSA tab washer fitting into the splines. Part number 24-4263.


So I ordered one.
no mention of tab knocking
 

greg brillus

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
If there is any play in the sprocket/shaft no tab washer will stop it coming undone.........Not normally an issue on the twins....... I don't use any tab washer there, just do the nut up very tight, with a smear of three bond behind the seal cup. Wipe off the excess, then punch lock in one spot only on the nut near one spline........i don't hit it too hard.......the output shaft bearing can shift in the case if you get carried away.
 

craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Looking ahead at cyl/head assembly, i find i have 12 year old new in the package Maughan and VOC Spares push rod tubes and nuts.

The Maughan are machined tubes, square flange and twice the weight of the VOC Spares, 80gms vs 40gms.
Slightly smaller ID with Maughan as shown.

I am not sure which would fair better in service.
I do like the 6 slot Maughan tube nuts for the intake valves.
What does experience show?

20210503_PushrodTubeQ1.jpg20210503_PushrodTubeNut1.jpg
 
Last edited:

greg brillus

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Craig, I've had no experience with the solid machined Maughan's ones, but they look good......Just make sure the OD of the tubes is 0.75" in diameter. Check the fit of the tube into the head recess, the flanges can be a little snug and this causes grief when installing the tubes, seal washers and the flange nuts. If they are a bit snug just linish a bit off the OD of the flange........Good idea also to trial fit the flange nuts into the head, and wind them in a few threads to be sure everything is ok........A tight thread here can become disastrous if it goes in cross threaded......The new stainless ones have very sharp edges on the threads and can be easily crossed.........I prefer to use the original card type sealing washers one in the head and one between the underside of the flange and the flange nut........As per the fit of the tubes in the head........linish the OD of these lower sealing washers so they are a nice slide fit in the head, not tight, as this will also make assembly more difficult. Neal Videan's bonded seals seam like a good thing here, but the heat tends to melt the rubber, plus folk tend to over tighten the flange nuts, this crushes the seal into the thread in the head and makes future removal very difficult. Up to you but I use "O" rings in the crank case, 2 of per tube actually, and I always use a tiny smear of threebond around the small taper at the base of each pushrod tube........This mostly acts as a lubricant to assist the tube entering the case seal.......The tubes change in alignment with the case as the barrel/head is lowered into position.......Without this step, the tube can cut into the seal, pealing off a slither of rubber as it goes.
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
With regard to the bottom tube seal I am beginning to think that the real culprit is not the pushrod tubes or the standard seals (and I have tried new tubes and all the options from O rings to special seals) or what glue you add to the assembly the fact that all my engines are oil tight there except one(and its not a 'D') is leading me to think the fault lies in the shape of the crankcase recess even given I cant see it. anyway as I said on another thread, sod it it can weep this season I am riding.
 

Robert Watson

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
When I built the 100 bike Rapide for my son it had a consistent oil leak from the main crankcase drain plug. I tried all kinds of gaskets before I got serious. turned out that the threads were not square to the bottom of the recess by a substantial amount. I ended up making a 1/4 bsf mandrel and recutting the recess with a small piloted fly cutter. No more leak. Back in the day (the cases had been apart since the sixties!) it must have driven someone crazy!
 

craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I spent some time reacquainting myself with pushrod tubes ET46 and gland rings ET104.
The ET104 glands went in with some difficulty chasing them around the crankcase openings, adding some grease, then allowing them to fold inward and other techniques. Finally learning what to do, got em in.

Then I grabbed a new standard pushrod tube and I could not get it to go in any of the gland seals....grease, push pull, lots of pressure , almost grabbed a rubber hammer, but did not. How could this be? I have put many of these in and it was easy peasy slip in.
PushrodTubeInstall2.jpg
 

craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I got out some old pushrod tubes and had a compare on the entry end of the tubes.

20210504_PushrodTubeEndCompare1.jpg


It was easy to grind and polish a bevel on the new standard pushrod tubes and it is easy peasy to install.
 

craig

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I am fitting The G52 chain sealing felt ring to G51 chain sprocket cover. And then fitting the felt into G22.
Even oil soaked G22 became a brake drum jammed up with felt ring and cover.....all spinning together.

What is the tooling/process to reduce the G52 felt ring?


20210508_FeltG52Fitment.jpg

This picture shows the out of package G52 oiled up and trial installed causing lock up to the right. A slightly smaller G52 out of another pakage.
 

greg brillus

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
The modern felt seals seam to be quite weak.......Used in the brakes they tend to roll themselves up and break up.........Sometimes you can place a length of wooden dowel inside the seal and cut it with a sharp stanley knife or similar. On the G 52 I tend to re use the original if it is in good condition, wash it in petrol dry it out, lightly coat with grease and re install it. I don't use the modern replacements at all......In the brakes I use the thin Nilos seals that seem to work fine when set up correctly.
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Have you bashed the tin plate into the resess, To stop it turning ?.
There is a half round resess at 7 o clock in the hole in G50,
You can see it in your first photo of your bits, And when the gearchange bits are fitted,
It should be stopped from turning .
 
Last edited:

Can't Find What You Need?

Buyer Beware: Fake or Real?

The Mighty Garage Videos

List of Forum Categories

Top