I have a new one arriving any day now from Voc spares co........replacing one that the base has rotted out from sludge/moisture.
When I 'did' my RFM which had been powder coated by a prior owner I removed all bearings and bushes then had the local plating shop dip the RFM in solvent to remove the powder coating - it took them 5 days of soaking to get it all off.If that rear frame has just been sand blasted, you should coat the surface with rust converter (I think its phosphoric acid or whatever it is) available from most all Auto parts stores. This will prevent steel and iron from rusting whilst you get ready to paint it........( If you powder coat it, I wont talk to you anymore.......)......You need the lifting handle and the chain guard bolted on to align the rear mudguard.
Not correct. I powdercoat all black parts and many fuel tanks and other tinwork. Sandblasting removes ALL previous finishes down to the steel, then PC is applied. It will never rust, unlike any primer/paint. AND PC can be easily sanded & bufffed to a high finish.I recon the only reason you would want to powder-coat something like a UFM is if you want to hide something.......... Worst thing you can ever do.........I have one here on a "B" Shadow, that was powder coated, and the dumb asses that done it did not even blank anything off. All the threads, inside the filler neck all coated in a thick black coating, and loads of blast medium inside the tank.........All lovely stuff for a brand new engine.........words fail me........Leave the powder coating for garden furniture.