Misc: Everything Else 1951 Black Shadow Restoration

craig

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Making plans for cutting open the oil tank, gathering tools to do so, not quite sure yet how big a panel to cut out of the top of tank, but soon.
Spent the day checking out the new RFM from Conway Motors/Godden Eng.
I am very happy with all the fits and threads.
Trial mounted the rear mudguard front half.

Also received some Vincent MPH, Parts book, owners, etc from the Jack Alker of Manchester estate. His daughter is in the States and contacted me.

Ordered more parts from Healy at Coventry.

20210129_RFMDay1.jpg
 

greg brillus

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
If that rear frame has just been sand blasted, you should coat the surface with rust converter (I think its phosphoric acid or whatever it is) available from most all Auto parts stores. This will prevent steel and iron from rusting whilst you get ready to paint it........( If you powder coat it, I wont talk to you anymore.......)......You need the lifting handle and the chain guard bolted on to align the rear mudguard.
 

Martyn Goodwin

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
If that rear frame has just been sand blasted, you should coat the surface with rust converter (I think its phosphoric acid or whatever it is) available from most all Auto parts stores. This will prevent steel and iron from rusting whilst you get ready to paint it........( If you powder coat it, I wont talk to you anymore.......)......You need the lifting handle and the chain guard bolted on to align the rear mudguard.
When I 'did' my RFM which had been powder coated by a prior owner I removed all bearings and bushes then had the local plating shop dip the RFM in solvent to remove the powder coating - it took them 5 days of soaking to get it all off.

Followed by a very light bead blast and a thorough wash - inside and out and dried in a paint oven. Then the phosphoric acid treatment inside the tubes as well as outside. After that a 2 pack paint job with all openings masked.

After that I then sprayed the inside of the tubes with lots of anti-rust wax - the sort they put into double skin car panels. Got mine in a spray can from the local auto shop.

Once done I refitted the bearings and bushes.
 

craig

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Not a lot of progress it seems, but i am busy all day.

Trial fitted a used birmabright tail section.
No lifting handles, fender braces or headlight braces available.
Still in thought about where to cut the oil tank for access.
Waiting for wife to leave so i can access oven for oil pump, bearing and possibly spindles.
Not happening real soon, lots of smoke last time, need to flush oil out of crankcase and existing bearings.

20210203_ProgressReport.jpg
 

marcmm1890

Forum User
Non-VOC Member
I recon the only reason you would want to powder-coat something like a UFM is if you want to hide something.......... Worst thing you can ever do.........I have one here on a "B" Shadow, that was powder coated, and the dumb asses that done it did not even blank anything off. All the threads, inside the filler neck all coated in a thick black coating, and loads of blast medium inside the tank.........All lovely stuff for a brand new engine.........words fail me........Leave the powder coating for garden furniture.
Not correct. I powdercoat all black parts and many fuel tanks and other tinwork. Sandblasting removes ALL previous finishes down to the steel, then PC is applied. It will never rust, unlike any primer/paint. AND PC can be easily sanded & bufffed to a high finish.
You can hide under paint too....I would never PC crankcases.
You had a bad experience / your PC guy didn't know what he was doing or was given incomplete instructions.
For UFM's, install a Conway manhole so you can get to the leftovers from blasting, painting or PC.
Good luck.
 

craig

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Looking forward, while waiting for DHL, The Miller No30E mount plate is held with 3ea countersunk slotted screws.
I notice restored Vincents have their Miller No30E mount screws at positions 123.
I look at Chantland's Black Shadow and I am pretty sure those screws are at 456.

What is the material and finish of all the 4BA pieces?

Miller30EMount1.jpg


ChantlandIMG2287.jpg


ChantlandTail2.jpg


20210204_Miller30ECSKPattern1.jpg
 

Marcus Bowden

VOC Hon. Overseas Representative
VOC Member
Cheep skates, I fill up all the holes, if you need an additional 4BA nut and bolt one can temporarilly borrow one of the used six, "A's" only had 5 nuts & bolts holding on sprockets, I have used one of those to secure a mud guard stay before. But have fitted the usual 10 N & B's.
bananaman.
 
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