My advice, based upon my own experience is to fit the inspection cap. I had two UFMs I was working on at the same time several years ago. One was off the ex-Cecil Mills bike which I had used as a normal road bike for many years and the other was the oil tank I had used on my production class sprinter. That oil tank was a second hand one of unknown provenance. I worked on the ex-CM one first and spent several weeks with petrol, paraffin and even a pressure washer working down the filler neck. I was still not happy so I then designed a 'man hole cover' got a chum to make several and cut a hole. It was just as well that I did as the solidified black residue left in the bottom of the tank could only be removed by actively scraping it. This experience encouraged me to then make a hole in the top of the tank of my sprinter. Absolutely clean! Such is life. The one thing that I do remember is that the run of the pipe inside the tank was very different between the two tanks so when cutting a hole in the top be careful not to go too deep.
Misc: Everything Else 1951 Black Shadow Restoration
- Thread starter craig
- Start date
I need a picture or 2 of the tail internals of an oil tank please.
I am seeing a closed top stand tube for the oil feed pipe with crudely cut side ports at it's bottom.
Is there a drawing? are there pics of the pieces please?
What do you see during install of a Conways tank port?
Thanks
Craig
I am seeing a closed top stand tube for the oil feed pipe with crudely cut side ports at it's bottom.
Is there a drawing? are there pics of the pieces please?
What do you see during install of a Conways tank port?
Thanks
Craig
Last edited:
Cyborg,
I know it is very easy to get stuck with assembling anything with Loctite , especially when parts are heated. With age I get clumsier with fingers so try to find more reliable ways for assembling. When you got a drill press you could do sort of pilot for those jobs so for dropping in bearings or shafts a drill press with adapter would be useful. Same with valve seat rings, only one try , so you need a piloted holder for the premachined ring to sink it in the 200 degrees head. So often Loctite may be blamed for getting stuck but it is too easy to handle the job a bit clumsy , better use some more equipment for fitting sleeves or so. Like sleeves from alu for 62mm roller bearings, pressed in on the mill cold with 620 Loctite applied on all faces, quick in one fast go.
Greg, I cannot see any need for taper rollers for not having cylindrical types, side by side for drive side - except when there is high axial load from helical gears when taper rollers are better than lipped cylinder rollers which got about same load numbers but only for low side loads. My combination of roller bearings on drive side is nice for assembling the engine finally, once you did all spacing correct. All rollers contained in outer races, one inner race lip next to crank web, then one hardened spacer for a real seal, no scroll, and the outer race no lip for slipping all through both bearings. Finally I did a special adapter, acting as outer lip for lateral position, pressing on inner races and carrying the triplex sprocket. The leftmost inner race can be from a NJ type roller bearing, but the lip turned off and race shortened for accepting an extra ring/lip - the said sprocket adapter, with ample face for the sprocket side loads from ESA springs.
I wonder how the standard ball bearing is fitted on standard components: Is it a push fit on the mainshaft so you just slip the lot through all items with the ball bearing already hot assembled in the case bore ? Or a puller needed to get the crank onto stops
Vic
I know it is very easy to get stuck with assembling anything with Loctite , especially when parts are heated. With age I get clumsier with fingers so try to find more reliable ways for assembling. When you got a drill press you could do sort of pilot for those jobs so for dropping in bearings or shafts a drill press with adapter would be useful. Same with valve seat rings, only one try , so you need a piloted holder for the premachined ring to sink it in the 200 degrees head. So often Loctite may be blamed for getting stuck but it is too easy to handle the job a bit clumsy , better use some more equipment for fitting sleeves or so. Like sleeves from alu for 62mm roller bearings, pressed in on the mill cold with 620 Loctite applied on all faces, quick in one fast go.
Greg, I cannot see any need for taper rollers for not having cylindrical types, side by side for drive side - except when there is high axial load from helical gears when taper rollers are better than lipped cylinder rollers which got about same load numbers but only for low side loads. My combination of roller bearings on drive side is nice for assembling the engine finally, once you did all spacing correct. All rollers contained in outer races, one inner race lip next to crank web, then one hardened spacer for a real seal, no scroll, and the outer race no lip for slipping all through both bearings. Finally I did a special adapter, acting as outer lip for lateral position, pressing on inner races and carrying the triplex sprocket. The leftmost inner race can be from a NJ type roller bearing, but the lip turned off and race shortened for accepting an extra ring/lip - the said sprocket adapter, with ample face for the sprocket side loads from ESA springs.
I wonder how the standard ball bearing is fitted on standard components: Is it a push fit on the mainshaft so you just slip the lot through all items with the ball bearing already hot assembled in the case bore ? Or a puller needed to get the crank onto stops
Vic
please start a new thread or PM on bearing upgrades please. Not helping this project at all.
After seeing what appears to be possibly sandy particles, i am not willing to assemble with "best i could do" tank flush. I will have too much time and money in this engine.
Has anyone fitted a new oil tank? Can you supply details?
Thanks
After seeing what appears to be possibly sandy particles, i am not willing to assemble with "best i could do" tank flush. I will have too much time and money in this engine.
Has anyone fitted a new oil tank? Can you supply details?
Thanks
Last edited:
If there was abrasive left, then I think it makes the decision fairly easy. An inspection plate would be a good idea. I know some folk take them to a rad shop and get them boiled out, but not sure I would want to trust someone else’s work unless you could get in there with a really good camera afterwards and make sure it is perfectly clean. Perhaps someone has a photo of the Conways mod?
Somewhere I have some photos of another tank I did where the tube over the outlet came adrift. Will try to post them if you wish.
Somewhere I have some photos of another tank I did where the tube over the outlet came adrift. Will try to post them if you wish.
New tank is good.
And has to drill holes to take up the headstock, oneself.
Very nice as one an adapt the rake agle by half degree less.
And than the Normy gridraulics upgrade.
Than an hyperpro steering damper
Makes it a new bike
And has to drill holes to take up the headstock, oneself.
Very nice as one an adapt the rake agle by half degree less.
And than the Normy gridraulics upgrade.
Than an hyperpro steering damper
Makes it a new bike
Not to question the joy of a completely clean tank - but if the residue was that resistant to removal by solvent, etc., how likely is it that it would come loose or dissolve in oil during running? Perhaps more a theoretical than a real menace?
TouringGodet
Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
VOC Forum Administrator
VOC Forum Moderator
Forum user Piston Pete purchased a new oil tank (less headstock) fairly recently.
Edit, it was in 2018, refer to
www.vincentownersclub.co.uk
Edit, it was in 2018, refer to
E: Engine - Oil Tank Woes
Hi there I am wondering ( hoping !) that deep in the recesses of some club members shed ,there my be lying a forgotten oil tank - hope springs eternal. eh. I recently sent off my Comet's oil tank to Conways for de-sludging ,however on its journey from Ireland to Conways, some sludge must...
www.vincentownersclub.co.uk
Last edited:
how likely is it that it would come loose or dissolve in oil during running?
Over here we call it 'sod's law. If it can happen it will at the most inconvenient time.
Over here we call it 'sod's law. If it can happen it will at the most inconvenient time.