A Comet on an open 2" pipe 44" Long "Sounds" really FAST,
I did when I built a Black Flash.
I did when I built a Black Flash.
Misc: Everything Else Starting Problem - Series 'C' BIG Single
- Thread starter Jez Nemeth
- Start date
Blueing on the pipe from the first start on longest day where I came close to testing out, "how long does it take to nip up a single from cold?" -maybe needs that 2" pipe to breathe better? -With starting this thing easily, it's every part of the system requiring tuning but also to suit intended purpose on drive -to state the obvious.
Then there's brakes once it's underway that will need re-considering -don't think a 'Limited braking ability' T-shirt is going to cut it somehow...
more you dig more you uncover.
I know it's not a Harley, but get away with an open/mildly baffled 2" pipe on her Majesty's highways?
Then there's brakes once it's underway that will need re-considering -don't think a 'Limited braking ability' T-shirt is going to cut it somehow...
more you dig more you uncover.
I know it's not a Harley, but get away with an open/mildly baffled 2" pipe on her Majesty's highways?
Last edited:
If I was you !, Sorry Jez, Can't help it !.
I would dump that breather ,
Blank it off , Same size as a sump drain plug .
You need to breath, That's a big old piston going up and down,
In the old days the fastest Vin's always had a big breather,
Often out of the Timing case , I could not bring myself to damage one ,
But Ron Alloy welded a bicycle alloy handle bar to the ATD cover,
A 3/4" inch Rubber pipe would be nice ?.
I would dump that breather ,
Blank it off , Same size as a sump drain plug .
You need to breath, That's a big old piston going up and down,
In the old days the fastest Vin's always had a big breather,
Often out of the Timing case , I could not bring myself to damage one ,
But Ron Alloy welded a bicycle alloy handle bar to the ATD cover,
A 3/4" inch Rubber pipe would be nice ?.
See that equally challenges all my visual sensibilities aesthetically -compromise Bill, bigger one atop of front tappet cover , like a 'D' -I'll even ally weld it in too...be 1/2" ID. about 3/4" OD on a rubber pipe...that should be ok?
-and I have the decomp too for starting.
Would that mean there's really no need for the breather pinion?...interesting, the block had no spindle in place for one..I bought one, but kind of questioned it's relevance as I'd blocked off the rear lower breather on the 500 too...Suspect JR did too...
-and I have the decomp too for starting.
Would that mean there's really no need for the breather pinion?...interesting, the block had no spindle in place for one..I bought one, but kind of questioned it's relevance as I'd blocked off the rear lower breather on the 500 too...Suspect JR did too...
Last edited:
Bill, I cannot add much of advice - or screaming - as I have not seen the conditions of all parts assembled at present. No, I don´t think the torque on the ESA nut will help much in case of loose splines. The torque shocks from crank or via belt and gearbox will most likely be more than you can put into bolting up the lot. I think the only way to keep you happy with that place is to get new spares with perfect fits in splines. Would not be a dramatic thing if one of the specific splines was not the crank mainshaft.
Another thing is the dry conditions with belt drives: As we have seen the completely wrecked splines on belt pulley and crank in dry primary drive in obviously short use I am not quite clear what to recommend for prevention. Maybe a quality chain grease on splines on assembly could be helpful, or some antiseize like copper paste or MoS2 paste as I like a lot more, applied on splines might help fight any additional wear in dry conditions - when there is no way to produce an assembly with nil clearances . Big question is how to secure the lot on its place: I´d hate to see wear in the ESA nut thread and on the thread of mainshaft from fretting all the time. So I´d go for Loctite, low or normal strength , for keeping a chance to undo with common tools. So when locking that, there will be some more places left moving in fractions that will see some wear in time. Again, periodic chain grease might help to fight wear. Anyway, not a happy condition in the long run when you don´t decide on a radical operation.
Vic
Another thing is the dry conditions with belt drives: As we have seen the completely wrecked splines on belt pulley and crank in dry primary drive in obviously short use I am not quite clear what to recommend for prevention. Maybe a quality chain grease on splines on assembly could be helpful, or some antiseize like copper paste or MoS2 paste as I like a lot more, applied on splines might help fight any additional wear in dry conditions - when there is no way to produce an assembly with nil clearances . Big question is how to secure the lot on its place: I´d hate to see wear in the ESA nut thread and on the thread of mainshaft from fretting all the time. So I´d go for Loctite, low or normal strength , for keeping a chance to undo with common tools. So when locking that, there will be some more places left moving in fractions that will see some wear in time. Again, periodic chain grease might help to fight wear. Anyway, not a happy condition in the long run when you don´t decide on a radical operation.
Vic
Yes your right, But on Twins the gear drives the ATD.
The "D" s breath out a Valve Spring Cap, But the head has to be opened out to let the air out,
Which is why I use the valve adjuster cap.
Maybe that's why you had oil leaks on your old Comet ?.
I have been playing for many years and still NOT got it all right.
The "D" s breath out a Valve Spring Cap, But the head has to be opened out to let the air out,
Which is why I use the valve adjuster cap.
Maybe that's why you had oil leaks on your old Comet ?.
I have been playing for many years and still NOT got it all right.
But Vic, I have never seen the wear like on Jez's mainshaft, I have seen many loose ones,
As I have said the shaft are not hard, But something Strange with that one.
Cheers Bill.
Hi Vic -the splines on the JR are clean and good -the mating parts in the ESA are running on a new shaft -so as good as it gets there...that photo nasty of the 'chewed' spline crank stub was from my other motor thank goodness. But there are other, more intrusive ways of ensuring there is absolutely no possibility of movement from first kick to ignition off -I had thought of a few, D -shaping the crank stub and adding a tapered key, then fixing with the crank nut for one...
The old Comet engine had leaks mainly due to the sealant and bonding material used to hold the cases together- used Tribond, which usually is the go to- leaked like a sieve...
The old Comet engine had leaks mainly due to the sealant and bonding material used to hold the cases together- used Tribond, which usually is the go to- leaked like a sieve...
Jez did you only have that small bit of thread holding on the old engine ?,
I guess that could have been the problem ?.
I guess that could have been the problem ?.
I can make something for the tappet cap that will look ok...designer head on