Misc: Everything Else Starting Problem - Series 'C' BIG Single

[Jez Nemeth]

nope -apologies, it's a 19 Pilot -middle groove. Need to run it again on a new plug + charged up battery starting off Petrol next time...and learn when to drop the cable operated decomp valve unless can find a 14mm pop.

 

[Bill Thomas]

Forget the main,
I find the pilot is mostly adjustable,
Most problems are the slide, Or float height ?.
But if it won't go below 1500 , Maybe an air leak.

 

[Jez Nemeth]

not tried to adjust yet, too busy wandering around trying to find phone, taking video and commentating with a stupid smile on my face you couldn't remove with plastic surgery...why I left it running at high tick over for too long realistically.

Will get to the idle mixture screw next time -it's out 1 1/4 so room there for adjusting.

When it stalled the carb was getting hot, wonder if fuel was evaporating prematurely? -I did buy some special material that was more effective than a thermal Tufnol spacer at half the thickness in reducing thermal conductivity between head and carb, thought it would do the trick well having checked the data sheets -about 1/8" thick compressed, called Novus 30

Will also check my inlet manifold casting for defects that may have expanded due to temp -air ingress?

 

[Bill Thomas]

I put my Comet together once, For the 1998 500 rally,
Like you beaming smile,
Till I looked down on the grass and saw loads of OIL,
Forgot to drain the sump !,
The engine Gearbox had been on the coffee table for a few years !.
And I had to make up a bike up with a rear C/head and bit of exhaust for inlet manifold,
And tune in a 34 mm E.I. Carb'.

 

[Jez Nemeth]

on a similar note Bill I purposely over filled the oil tank weeks ago and let the oil drain through, clear air pockets etc, basically to get it everywhere. And drain to a good level once run a couple of times. The TP heads have a couple of bleed screws above the rocker tunnels, on top of the cast in oil feeds -didn't need to use them, and oil seems to be running through the system fine. But will make starting easier with less, and that Belt ESA gone too -that's an inertia absorber on kickstarting.

Big Q' though mate -with the size of thing generating such heat -is this a good candidate for an oil cooler?

I've been thinking about it, and looking for one that could possibly not look out of place...as much as an oil cooler on a Vincent wouldn't look out of place at all. But it would stop the oil boiling and hastening the degrading process, especially on hot days. What's your thoughts?

 

[Jez Nemeth]

Peter -that's a really good question, so did some further checking on pistons if an alternative replacement needed to be found...you'll like this, I have an old VW T3 Caravelle Oettinger poptop form 1989, had it a very long time, been round the clock and 200thou the other side -ripped out all the VW transmission and engine -now runs a chipped 2.5 Subaru + ECU, made a cable gearchange, rear discs and I reversed the diff in a WRX Subaru gearbox to run backwards at a higher ratio with Exedy clutch...it's a Autobahn cruiser changing into 5th at just over a ton, top end god only knows, just plenty there and never wanted to go that fast in it to find out, it will keep up with Porsches and leaves similar sized Range Rovers for dust -quick off the start too for a 2 ton brick, but I only drive it around at 50, and 70 on motorways as it's our holiday home and super reliable. Point being, the pistons are good and super strong -and are exactly 99.5mm -100mm with rings -£60 new each and come in a variety of compression ratio's available ...the Nicasil barrel I have no easy answer for if that goes, except pleading cap in hand to Conways/Godden for another to be bored and coated...dread to think, standard £1500 -custom sizes be a fair bit more I'd guess..

Only other way would be to extract and machine a Subaru Barrel from a block -plenty about (Nicasil lined already), thereby creating a liner to be inserted into a over-bored Vincent muff with wider bolt hole diameter...that would work.possibly -doable anyway -but would have a shorter stroke, although there might be enough to get 100mm -they run 79mm, but barrel is longer than that because of different compression options offered across the range using the same basic block, have to check that one...anyway they're already in the form of a liner within a water jacket, and easy to remove and machine, two per side...

A guesstimate be something like -
Bore of 100mm divided by 2 = 50, then squared,( 50 x 50 ) = 2500 x 100mm (approx stroke) = 250000 x 3.14 = 785cc roughly(ish)...

 

[Bill Thomas]

on a similar note Bill I purposely over filled the oil tank weeks ago and let the oil drain through, clear air pockets etc, basically to get it everywhere. And drain to a good level once run a couple of times. The TP heads have a couple of bleed screws above the rocker tunnels, on top of the cast in oil feeds -didn't need to use them, and oil seems to be running through the system fine. But will make starting easier with less, and that Belt ESA gone too -that's an inertia absorber on kickstarting.

Big Q' though mate -with the size of thing generating such heat -is this a good candidate for an oil cooler?

I've been thinking about it, and looking for one that could possibly not look out of place...as much as an oil cooler on a Vincent wouldn't look out of place at all. But it would stop the oil boiling and hastening the degrading process, especially on hot days. What's your thoughts?

Under normal conditions, Our Trev did some tests, And found the oil in the tank runs Cool,
So for me I would not worry,
And I worry about most things !.
I like single weight oil , 30 in winter and 40 in summer.
Normaly you can filter a bit in traffic , With a narrow comet,
Although I see you have side bags !.
It's much too early to think about other things, Just get the ign' And carb right,
ie No spitting back in the carb'.

 

[Jez Nemeth]

You're right of course -Have those Cravens + rack when in 'standard' mode. It's on 40 oil, we'll just see how it goes until there's a problem rather than trying to cure the unbroken.

 

[royrobertson]

It's a very Special moment when an engine fires up and runs for the first time after loads of hard work. Well Done Jez. On the oiling side are you using a twin start oil pump? This may be worth thinking about for this special engine. Are you sure about the cylinder plating? When I was working with John he used (and so have I) a company called Aptec Motorsport who ceramic plated direct on aluminium liners. They are not silly expensive and my race bike has been using them since 2001. They can even repair and refresh the plating if necessary.

 

[timetraveller]

I like twin start pumps amd use them in all my bikes but I don't think that oil cooling will work. The circulationis just too slow. The good news is you have a Terry Prince cylinder head and they have more finning than a standard head and presumably the oversized barrel will also give more cooling than standard. The engine will have been designed to run on 'dope' which will give more cooling than petrol and you will use a much lower compression ratio than the engine as bought. It will be so lightly loaded for road use that I suspect it will be fine.