E: Engine Spark plugs 1000 and 500

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I suspect the fellows that make them are getting better and the fake ones harder to distinguish from the real ones. I'm pretty sure what is printed on the plug has no actual bearing on heat range. I was shown some knock off oil filters and it was surprising how close they looked to the OEM. The major difference was the fakes weren't very good at keeping the oil where it should be. The parts manager thought he was going to "save" some money. Profits went out the window when they discovered a couple of customers had oil all over their new interlocking brick driveways.

When buying plugs on Ebay, I look for NOS. If you buy them in Honda or Yamaha boxes, it's less likely someone went to the trouble to fake a bunch of boxes. These ones B7ES were produced for Honda.
Plugs.jpg
 

chankly bore

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
An interesting thread, this. I scrounged original detachable FE50 and FE70 K.L.G.'s out of the boots of old wrecks and bought FE60's from the Green Spark Plug Company when they were offered. I would rather use a known secondhand fifty year old plug than buy something suspect on Greedybay; likewise I prefer to scrounge old pre-1958 fasteners and wire-brush and replate them. Like Cyborg, I buy Honda boxed plugs for my "modern" ride, a 1986 GB500.
 

Howard

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I've used Champion N9Y for 40 years without problems, but I've had problems with quite a few NGKs - maybe I've been picking up fake ones, but I know at least one failure came from a reputable source.
 

SteveO

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Resistor plugs should never be used with magnetos, they don't do the mag any good and don't work well. They probably aren't a problem with electronic ignition. NGK BP plugs are OK, it just means the central electrode projects a bit more. But I have turned to Champion N5Cs on my Rapide (mag) and starting was much improved.
 

litnman

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I have a box of KLG plugs CL1LF. As you can see on the label is says for
Vincent HRD. I have not seen a plug chart on this one. What is the heat range. Is it really for a Vincent.
KLG SPARK PLUG CL1LF.jpg
 
Last edited:

Gary Gittleson

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I've been using NGK BP6ES in my D Rapide. It has 389 1 1/8" Monoblocs and distributor ignition with a Dyna points booster. The bike doesn't burn any noticeable oil and the plugs have a nice tan color, no soot and of course not oil. This has been true for the last 10,000 miles.

I've been using the same plugs in my 1982 R100 RS BMW. That bike is dual plugged, with the bottom plugs having 12 mm threads and short reach. It has electronic ignition. By the way, it's considered quite harmful in to use resistor plugs in these airheads.

I buy the plugs from the local auto parts store.
Gary
 

litnman

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Gary, I'm just trying to get some data on them and I don't find anything on line about these plugs. The printing on the box is in French and I don't do
French.
 

chankly bore

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
I have a box of KLG plugs CL1LF. As you can see on the label is says for
Vincent HRD. I have not seen a plug chart on this one. What is the heat range. Is it really for a Vincent.View attachment 28729
Try an enquiry to the Green Spark Plug company in the U.K. Failing that, pull one apart. For memory, the longer the taper on the centre "Corundite" or mica insulation, the hotter the plug. You'd then need to compare it with an old FE50 or FE70 detachable plug. Part of the designation will refer to the twin earth electrodes, as the original plug had but one.
 

Peter Holmes

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
KLG FE50 and KLG FE70 are excellent spark plugs, I have been using them for years, and still do, but they are not the type of plug that you refer to as detachable, you cannot take them apart, not that you would ever need to.
 
Top