F: Frame Snapped Rear Mudguard Strut

Shane998

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Something like this might do ok.
No Land Rover to hand but do have a Propane gas bottle and blow lamp.
I have a mate who is an old panel beater and a very good welder cleaning very important as Bill says My mate has fixed holes like that before for me. Cut out a plug with holesaw in material you can find (Land Rover correct try and find a breaker you only need a few square inches)( or maybe someone in your section has a piece of old guard -that happened to lucky me )and make a good fit to hole you dress in guard. Then my mate takes it to his mate the very good welder to get it done right Also best to make a doubler or another piece maybe 2 inches wide curved to fit across the guard to reinforce that area with the bolt each side going through strut,guard,doubler and then a wide washer
 

erik

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VOC Member
What I think :
The original fork with good brakes is really dangerous.
Motorcycles with bad brakes in modern traffic are extremly dangerous and can end up in an expensive repair .More expensive as good brakes will cost beside your damaged body!
The mod, steer. stem and superior brakes is a must for safety reasons and originality no argument for me!
Regards Erik
 

Bill Thomas

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VOC Member
You know I do my own thing :) ,
I think I only have a rear flap left.

I use 5" rear, Stainless, And I think 5" front ?, No rear flap used.

Still have not got over the Embarressment of our "Delboy " Shouting at me from a Car,
Riding down the A1, With my Comet rear mudguard broke in half and scraping on the road,
I never heard anything !.
 

danno

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
What I think :
The original fork with good brakes is really dangerous.
Motorcycles with bad brakes in modern traffic are extremly dangerous and can end up in an expensive repair .More expensive as good brakes will cost beside your damaged body!
The mod, steer. stem and superior brakes is a must for safety reasons and originality no argument for me!
Regards Erik
To think this bike used to do the ton, touring on the continent in the 60’s.
Less traffic though and the brakes might have better then than now.
 

Bill Thomas

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VOC Member
To think this bike used to do the ton, touring on the continent in the 60’s.
Less traffic though and the brakes might have better then than now.
It is possible to make these brakes work,
I remember Brother Ron Squealing the front tyre on an "A" Twin,
Same brakes as "C", Not sure I would pull that hard, For fear of pulling the nipple Off.

Some of the Lads are talking about Green Gripper Woven Linings, Fitted by saftec ?.
Soft linings ?,
One of the Forum Lads is getting his done , So I will be interested.
 

danno

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
It is possible to make these brakes work,
I remember Brother Ron Squealing the front tyre on an "A" Twin,
Same brakes as "C", Not sure I would pull that hard, For fear of pulling the nipple Off.

Some of the Lads are talking about Green Gripper Woven Linings, Fitted by saftec ?.
Soft linings ?,
One of the Forum Lads is getting his done , So I will be interested.
I’ll look into that. I don't think I want to fit Kawasaki discs.
Forever spannering on the Vin plus my R60 needs a rebore and I’m halfway through a disc/pad/bleed job
on the R1100RS. Maybe too many bikes :)
I know someone who could weld the strut and fix the hole in the mudguard. Would need to take it off though.
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Always wanted a BMW R1100s, The early ones.
Saw one going cheap a few years ago, But I have no room in the Garage.

My ex L/ning is not too bad on brakes, Still AM4 Racing Linings with Asbestos,
But the NEW Rubbish linings on my Comet, Have no grip !,
So I welded up long rear brake arms, To short ends to fit the cables,
Makes me feel a bit better, I have 1.1/4" Pivots on my handle bar levers,
But standard Balance beam.

Sounds Like the BMW is the same as Vincents, You never stop doing Stuff .
 

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