What works for me, but in a non racing context, is alloy brake plates, long rear brake arms, brake shoes with the hollow filled in and about one and two thirds linings on each shoe, twin cables which I made myself from very robust industrial cables, a 'wiffle tree' on the handlebar brake lever to even up the pull on the wo cables and no balance beam. Instead two very robust attachment on the front of the girdrauic brakes to take the lower end of each cable. With this set up there is no sponge in the system. Instead the handle bar lever just comes to a stop. On one occasion in a panic stop when a lady pulled straight across the front of me I had the rear end in the air at about 30 mph. Don't ask me to do it again. I checked the latest club shop price for the alloy brake plates and was surpised to see that they are over £500 each!
F: Frame Snapped Rear Mudguard Strut
- Thread starter danno
- Start date
Does the panel think twin cables with a whiffle tree work better than the balance beam.
Also is it worth trying different levers as they come in different ratios with the fulcrum to nipple centres varying from 7/8" to 1-1/4"
Also is it worth trying different levers as they come in different ratios with the fulcrum to nipple centres varying from 7/8" to 1-1/4"
Have taken off the carrier and indicators. I think it looks better and it’s certainly easier to work on now.
I may try and buy a replacement strut if available and not too expensive. Repair needed though on the mudguard hole which I could probably do with the seat off.
Thanks for all the useful upgrade suggestions. I prefer the look of the twin springs over the single AVO spring/damper but need to get the ride a little softer either way.
Brakes definitely need looking at. Goes better than it stops.
I may try and buy a replacement strut if available and not too expensive. Repair needed though on the mudguard hole which I could probably do with the seat off.
Thanks for all the useful upgrade suggestions. I prefer the look of the twin springs over the single AVO spring/damper but need to get the ride a little softer either way.
Brakes definitely need looking at. Goes better than it stops.
Attachments
AVO do just a damper, not only the coil over version and you can leave the twin springs, but before going down that route check what springs you actually have, they could be sidecar ones. there is a list of the wire diameters somewhere, also check the length as the originals are about 6.5" but there are 8" softer springs about.
Be aware that softer springing and damping means the back of the seat bounces up and down more.
Be aware that softer springing and damping means the back of the seat bounces up and down more.
Thanks.
Yes, it used to have sidecar springs. I have them around somewhere.
Something like this might do ok.
No Land Rover to hand but do have a Propane gas bottle and blow lamp.
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Durafix Easyweld Aluminium Welding, Brazing and Soldering Kit - 1 Stick Kit and Brush from Chronos Engineering Supplies. Free UK delivery and great worldwide rates.
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If you have never welded aluminum previously you're taking a pretty significant risk trying to repair the
mudguard with propane/gas bottle/alumaweld type rod. Even if it is the original Birmabright it can be
welded with 1100 rod along with a man who knows what flux and lenses to use (Superior 8 or Super 6 from Ireland). You can't see the 'puddle' when welding aluminum unless you have the correct lenses and don't even think about
practicing on the mudguard itself, get some .063" 3003 aluminum to practice on. Better yet, find Badfoot customs in your country (he's on Facebook) and he can weld the hole in less than a minute. Unhook the rear struts from the seat, and while the struts should be hooked to the engine, you can get by with attaching them to the foot-rest plates. Your choice of brakes today is wider than previously as there are a few drum options available, all very good. It's
also a pretty easy installation to put Kawasaki discs on the front by re-drilling the rotors and making two simple
brackets to hold the calipers on. I believe the plans are now on this website.
mudguard with propane/gas bottle/alumaweld type rod. Even if it is the original Birmabright it can be
welded with 1100 rod along with a man who knows what flux and lenses to use (Superior 8 or Super 6 from Ireland). You can't see the 'puddle' when welding aluminum unless you have the correct lenses and don't even think about
practicing on the mudguard itself, get some .063" 3003 aluminum to practice on. Better yet, find Badfoot customs in your country (he's on Facebook) and he can weld the hole in less than a minute. Unhook the rear struts from the seat, and while the struts should be hooked to the engine, you can get by with attaching them to the foot-rest plates. Your choice of brakes today is wider than previously as there are a few drum options available, all very good. It's
also a pretty easy installation to put Kawasaki discs on the front by re-drilling the rotors and making two simple
brackets to hold the calipers on. I believe the plans are now on this website.
Something like this might do ok.
No Land Rover to hand but do have a Propane gas bottle and blow lamp.
Durafix Easyweld Aluminium Welding, Brazing and Soldering Kit - 1 Stick Kit and Brush - Chronos Engineering Supplies
Durafix Easyweld Aluminium Welding, Brazing and Soldering Kit - 1 Stick Kit and Brush from Chronos Engineering Supplies. Free UK delivery and great worldwide rates.
It's not easy , The trick is to Clean, clean, clean.Something like this might do ok.
No Land Rover to hand but do have a Propane gas bottle and blow lamp.
Durafix Easyweld Aluminium Welding, Brazing and Soldering Kit - 1 Stick Kit and Brush - Chronos Engineering Supplies
Durafix Easyweld Aluminium Welding, Brazing and Soldering Kit - 1 Stick Kit and Brush from Chronos Engineering Supplies. Free UK delivery and great worldwide rates.
If you are going to clean it use a dedicated stainless steel brush and acetone. Cleaning is not the problem,
seeing the puddle is the problem. I have a fabricator friend who hasn't cleaned the aluminum in over 40 years of
oxy welding his work. He uses oxy-acetylene or oxy-hydrogen, 1 1/2 lbs pressure on both with an 0.046" tip, 1/16" rod. You don't see the puddle you have instant craters and you'll wonder why
you ever started the project. If you haven't welded aluminum previously get some practice. If you want
the cheapest aluminum goggles extant (about $35 US) contact Cobra Torch in the USA. A set of TM Technologies lenses, the best since the Burt Weld lenses of WWII, will cost you a couple hundred quid. The Burt Welds are
no longer available and those who have them won't sell. The TM's are 95% as good. Weld in the sunlight. You are
attempting a journeyman's repair problem with your mudguard.
seeing the puddle is the problem. I have a fabricator friend who hasn't cleaned the aluminum in over 40 years of
oxy welding his work. He uses oxy-acetylene or oxy-hydrogen, 1 1/2 lbs pressure on both with an 0.046" tip, 1/16" rod. You don't see the puddle you have instant craters and you'll wonder why
you ever started the project. If you haven't welded aluminum previously get some practice. If you want
the cheapest aluminum goggles extant (about $35 US) contact Cobra Torch in the USA. A set of TM Technologies lenses, the best since the Burt Weld lenses of WWII, will cost you a couple hundred quid. The Burt Welds are
no longer available and those who have them won't sell. The TM's are 95% as good. Weld in the sunlight. You are
attempting a journeyman's repair problem with your mudguard.