F: Frame Snapped Rear Mudguard Strut

[oexing]

Seems there is a number of Vincenteers running real classic BMWs or having memories from past times. So I like to add some photos of the R 69 S, all white, I got in 1972 from first owner when I was a school boy . The looks and configuration are still same for 40 years now , with 230 mm 4LS Ceriani brake as I had a "situation " returning home from 15 months Bundeswehr duties in 1974 . Going round a hill at 100 mph I was facing a herd of cows on the road in a distance with the farmer watching me on brakes not believing I would stop in time - but I did - just. So by around 1980 I had the Ceriani and 730cc alu cylinders on, for 4 trips to IOM and two to Scotland. But that was in last millennium and since we did no more long bike holidays. My missus rather want the 1964 E-Type for that sort of trips. So once the Raps will be on the road , maybe next year, I do not believe they will see lots of road use then, at over 70 then we will have our limits I guess.

Vic

 

[Bill Thomas]

Love those Petrol Tanks.

 

[danno]

Clea

Seems there is a number of Vincenteers running real classic BMWs or having memories from past times. So I like to add some photos of the R 69 S, all white, I got in 1972 from first owner when I was a school boy . The looks and configuration are still same for 40 years now , with 230 mm 4LS Ceriani brake as I had a "situation " returning home from 15 months Bundeswehr duties in 1974 . Going round a hill at 100 mph I was facing a herd of cows on the road in a distance with the farmer watching me on brakes not believing I would stop in time - but I did - just. So by around 1980 I had the Ceriani and 730cc alu cylinders on, for 4 trips to IOM and two to Scotland. But that was in last millennium and since we did no more long bike holidays. My missus rather want the 1964 E-Type for that sort of trips. So once the Raps will be on the road , maybe next year, I do not believe they will see lots of road use then, at over 70 then we will have our limits I guess.

Vic

View attachment 56534

View attachment 56535

Clean.
Restored I take it.

 

[danno]

As I understand it, the spring boxes themselves add friction to the rear suspension, and have a tendency to cock over and jam

Yes. Looks like they could be doing that due to friction marks.
Bike had a complete restoration in the 90’s and solo springing was added. Was used with a Steib sidecar in the 1960’s.

 

[Sten Jensen]

...
But the NEW Rubbish linings on my Comet, Have no grip !,
So I welded up long rear brake arms, To short ends to fit the cables,
Makes me feel a bit better, I have 1.1/4" Pivots on my handle bar levers,
But standard Balance beam.

I would have thought that having long brake arms and standard balance beam, the lever would be sure to touch the handlebar before doing any serious braking ? And that longer brake arms should only be used with twin cables all the way.
But maybe DavidD has a point that lower force in cable will reduce flex in the system.
(must admit that I am one of the belivers in the balance beam needing half the force at the handlebar lever at the cost of double travel, but let us not open that discussion again ;-) )

 

[Chris Launders]

I use the balance beam and longer (rear) brake arms, have alloy brake plates and super heavy duty cables, I will admit I can probably get the lever back to the bars but I'm on the limit of my bravery before that, though in a real emergency I think more would be better.

So I'm testing some other mods I've done over winter and will then consider whether to reline the front shoes (I've had my Brough front brake relined with Saftek soft linings and now it actually stops me, rapidly if need be) or fit discs (I have everything apart from pads, hoses and a new master cylinder)

 

[Bill Thomas]

I would have thought that having long brake arms and standard balance beam, the lever would be sure to touch the handlebar before doing any serious braking ? And that longer brake arms should only be used with twin cables all the way.
But maybe DavidD has a point that lower force in cable will reduce flex in the system.
(must admit that I am one of the belivers in the balance beam needing half the force at the handlebar lever at the cost of double travel, but let us not open that discussion again ;-) )

I have 1. 1/4" pivots on my Dog leg levers, I thought they would give more leverage,
But I have been told I am wrong,
Just saying my brake is better for me,

I also have a disc setup I " could " put on if I wished,
But OK for now.

 

[bmetcalf]

The stiffer shoes from Neal Videan and I think Timetraveler and VOCSC are very good upgrades.

 

[danno]

AVO do just a damper, not only the coil over version and you can leave the twin springs, but before going down that route check what springs you actually have, they could be sidecar ones. there is a list of the wire diameters somewhere, also check the length as the originals are about 6.5" but there are 8" softer springs about.
Be aware that softer springing and damping means the back of the seat bounces up and down more.

Thanks.
I saw a C Rapide recently at a bike meet and noticed how much bounce there was when the owner was kick starting it.
The bike had twin springs.
My Rapide’s rear shocks are really hard so they do need sorting out. I’ve have a go at getting the springs and damper off once I’ve finished refitting the centre stand. Then there’s the LED indicators to buy and fit then oil/filter change. Much more spannering than riding at the moment.

 

[CarlHungness]

Thanks.
I saw a C Rapide recently at a bike meet and noticed how much bounce there was when the owner was kick starting it.
The bike had twin springs.
My Rapide’s rear shocks are really hard so they do need sorting out. I’ve have a go at getting the springs and damper off once I’ve finished refitting the centre stand. Then there’s the LED indicators to buy and fit then oil/filter change. Much more spannering than riding at the moment.

I made a tool, featured long ago in an MPH issue consisting of a couple of threaded rods that captured
a couple pieces of aluminum strap on top and bottom of the spring boxes in order to collapse them enough
for removal. Using the tool is slow going, but it works a treat. Sorry I don't have a photo but think you get the
idea. The aluminum straps are slotted to clear the center bolt, and the threaded rod should be covered with rubber hose or shrink tubing to keep it from scratching the spring boxes.