Sorry, you're right.
From the same website: Racing 10W40 contains 1680 ppm (not 2200) Zn.
E: Engine Oil Viscosity
- Thread starter greg brillus
- Start date
From the same website: Racing 10W40 contains 1680 ppm (not 2200) Zn.
I do not know what you are looking at
But I have a 5 Lt container in my workshop and it clearly states on the label full Zinc greater than 2,200 ppm,
Attachments
It's indeed strange.
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/racing-10w-40-pao-ester
On the "Description" they claim more than 2200 ppm, but if you go to "Typical Data", you'll find Zinc Mass 0,168 % which is 1680 ppm.
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/racing-10w-40-pao-ester
On the "Description" they claim more than 2200 ppm, but if you go to "Typical Data", you'll find Zinc Mass 0,168 % which is 1680 ppm.
Amendment, lost two zeroes between the telephone and the computer should read "1100 ppm." Direct telephone call to Valvoline Technical services and a very obliging and knowledgeable fellow brought up the current chemistry.
I guess "ZINC mass " might refer to the zinc part of the mix. Remember we are dealing with a compound. As I've said before; all my mechanical knowledge is in the poetry I've read, so I probably know Jack Sch*tt.It's indeed strange.
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/racing-10w-40-pao-ester
On the "Description" they claim more than 2200 ppm, but if you go to "Typical Data", you'll find Zinc Mass 0,168 % which is 1680 ppm.
All
very confusing. I need a rest!It's indeed strange.
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/racing-10w-40-pao-ester
On the "Description" they claim more than 2200 ppm, but if you go to "Typical Data", you'll find Zinc Mass 0,168 % which is 1680 ppm.
Geeezzz..........talk about you lot getting carried away........It's just oil for god sake, not Blood. It was just a simple exercise explaining the virtues of using a lower viscosity oil and the noticeable reduction in drag on the internals, therefore making the bike much easier to start.
Been there.
And did you have a paddle?
I have always run lower viscosity oil when kick starting engines at colder temps, so I don't see anything wrong with doing so at normal temps as long as you think the oil is good enough to perform well at its normal operating temperature.
zddp is not just zinc, it is a compound. So when you test your used oil to see if there is zinc in it, there will be. Zddp is attracted to surfaces and at a certain temperature will form a film that will be wiped off in a sacraficial manner by a heavy load. The resulting parts of the original zddp will stay in the oil but they won't work again. But, the fractured zddp will be immediately replaced by more zddp, if it is in the oil. I don't believe there is any way to measure how much good zddp remains in the oil.
Additionally, there are other chemical additives in oil that are fighting for surface space. Thus, you may create a competition for surface space among oil additives by adding zddp. Some manufactures say that over 1500 ppm zddp and you are asking for trouble. Others say 2000 ppm is the limit. Finally, not all zddp additives perform the same.
As a result, I have convinced myself to use a well-known oil without alteration. I trust the maker to finish the oil properly and make sure all the components are playing well with the others. If you are worried about heavy cam loads, use a good racing oil or HDDEO (heavy duty diesel engine oil.) I suspect a 800 ppm zddp would be fine in a Vincent with MK1s and if the oil were changed often. I suspect it would never run out of functioning zddp.
Changing oil and using freshly manufactured oil is probably the best thing you can do. The shelf life of most oil in now over a year and more on the order of 5 or 10 years. But, chemical additives can come out of solution. This is a known problem with modern oils. Maybe, we need some turning racks next to the wine for the oil. I think if you are using a good oil with some zddp in it and you change it regularly, you will not have a problem.
On the BMW R60 I rode all winter I ran 20 viscosity straight oil in engine and transmission. Any thicker and it would take eight or so seconds for the ks to return to the top for a second kick and it would be quite stiff going down. It did start quite easily at 25 degrees below zero F with the choke on and the throttle wide open on the second kick. It kept my feet warm, also.
David
zddp is not just zinc, it is a compound. So when you test your used oil to see if there is zinc in it, there will be. Zddp is attracted to surfaces and at a certain temperature will form a film that will be wiped off in a sacraficial manner by a heavy load. The resulting parts of the original zddp will stay in the oil but they won't work again. But, the fractured zddp will be immediately replaced by more zddp, if it is in the oil. I don't believe there is any way to measure how much good zddp remains in the oil.
Additionally, there are other chemical additives in oil that are fighting for surface space. Thus, you may create a competition for surface space among oil additives by adding zddp. Some manufactures say that over 1500 ppm zddp and you are asking for trouble. Others say 2000 ppm is the limit. Finally, not all zddp additives perform the same.
As a result, I have convinced myself to use a well-known oil without alteration. I trust the maker to finish the oil properly and make sure all the components are playing well with the others. If you are worried about heavy cam loads, use a good racing oil or HDDEO (heavy duty diesel engine oil.) I suspect a 800 ppm zddp would be fine in a Vincent with MK1s and if the oil were changed often. I suspect it would never run out of functioning zddp.
Changing oil and using freshly manufactured oil is probably the best thing you can do. The shelf life of most oil in now over a year and more on the order of 5 or 10 years. But, chemical additives can come out of solution. This is a known problem with modern oils. Maybe, we need some turning racks next to the wine for the oil. I think if you are using a good oil with some zddp in it and you change it regularly, you will not have a problem.
On the BMW R60 I rode all winter I ran 20 viscosity straight oil in engine and transmission. Any thicker and it would take eight or so seconds for the ks to return to the top for a second kick and it would be quite stiff going down. It did start quite easily at 25 degrees below zero F with the choke on and the throttle wide open on the second kick. It kept my feet warm, also.
David