Help With Rear Comet Hub Shim Clearence

Bill Thomas

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Ok so this morning I got to the bottom o it as thought the powder coat is the culprit. Far to thick on the edges for the flange to sit against the hub. You can see how thick it is looking at the flaky parts. Time for a nasty bath and revel some shiny parts.
That's a lesson to us all !, The Drums are often hard to get on and off, But with that stuff !!. Good Luck, Bill.
 

Bill Thomas

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The culprit who did all that should be shot, some have absolutely no idea what they are doing. Powder coating and motorcycle parts do not go together very well at all.
It's very tempting, My Brother has been getting some small stuff done, Local, Quick and Cheap, But I have not thought of Hubs. Cheers Bill.
 

Steve Burden

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The culprit who did all that should be shot, some have absolutely no idea what they are doing. Powder coating and motorcycle parts do not go together very well at all.
I think powder coats ok got frames and swing arms. That sort of stuff. Done a lot on flat track bikes that take a beating on the shale. The quite surprising thing is after components not mating correctly they ventured on. My guess not the bike owner.
 

Cyborg

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I've never been a big fan of powder coating frames etc, but thought one of the DIY kits would be good for doing small bits like engine plates. It works ok for some, but I did the FT5 pivot bearing plate the other day and it didn't work out that well. Granted I'm new at the game and still have a lone way to go on the learning curve, but I find it hard to get complete coverage and control the thickness at the same time. When I went to install the RFM, it wouldn't slide between the FT5 and the G50. Once I removed the powder coating from the FT5, the RFM slid in place. The powder coating creates just as much if not more mess than spray painting, so no advantage there. Thinking I will flog the powder coating kit and spend the money on epoxy paint.
 

Bill Thomas

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I've never been a big fan of powder coating frames etc, but thought one of the DIY kits would be good for doing small bits like engine plates. It works ok for some, but I did the FT5 pivot bearing plate the other day and it didn't work out that well. Granted I'm new at the game and still have a lone way to go on the learning curve, but I find it hard to get complete coverage and control the thickness at the same time. When I went to install the RFM, it wouldn't slide between the FT5 and the G50. Once I removed the powder coating from the FT5, the RFM slid in place. The powder coating creates just as much if not more mess than spray painting, so no advantage there. Thinking I will flog the powder coating kit and spend the money on epoxy paint.
Like they say, You don't want paint where it can work loose later, I made that plate out of Alloy, I like a bit of polished alloy, Easy to make. Cheers Bill.
 

Cyborg

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Easy to make yes...but if I made everything I should make, this thing would spend another 40 years in boxes. I'm ashamed to admit it, but I even bought a K/start shaft spacer! I just know my machinist brother is looking down on me from the heavens and trying to figure out how to send a lightening bolt my way.
 

ClassicBiker

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I had powder coating done two frames years ago. One my '67 Guzzi V7 the other my '72 Triumph Daytona. I don't think I'll do again. The Guzzi battery leaked acid on the frame and I didn't notice till it ate a hole in the tube. It was a right pain to clean it off and repair. I ground away all the affected metal and brazed a patch over the hole and painted it. You can't blend paint into powder coat. On the Daytona the power coat on the sheet metal still looks great 20+ years later. The cast frame lugs however are beginning to look a little rough, pun intended. When the powder coat was cooked in the oven, it flowed off some of the higher surface imperfections of the casting, leaving them exposed to the air. These have begun to rust ever so slightly. On the other hand some of the powder coating flowed quite nicely into the frame number leaving it almost illegible. My powder coating was done by a guy heavy in bikes. If you brought bike stuff in, it moved to the front of the line. He taped where the head stock bearings went and plugged all holes with silicone plugs. Used a razor blades to cut powder coat before removing tape and plugs. I would consider powder coating sheet metal parts again. I don't think I would do a frame again. Cast parts that aren't polished smooth I wouldn't do them. Mating surface that are critical need to be covered with fiberglass prior to spraying and the powder coat cut before the tape of plugs are removed. Otherwise it'll ruin the job. Just my thoughts.
Steven
 

vibrac

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VOC Member
On my Egli Comet still being built I looked hard at the rear alloy mudguard and rear plate I had just fabricated and fitted and it just looked well lets say OK structually but it was missing something. I took it off and had it black powder coated now it looks fine. In fact it has given me an idea, my cooking Comet has original Birmabright mudguards that went through the sixties and part of the seventies wearing a white powder coat not of paint but aluminium corrosion the guards now are still solid but have that ingrained patina of corrosion that will never polish out ('never' in this context means life is too short) I have it in mind to powder coat them black resulting in a touring guard look with sporting weight, of course the machine will have to take its place in the queue of jobs meantime I will find a moment with paint.net and see what colour I could use:eek:
 

Bill Thomas

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Also, I am not good with colours, But even I can see normal black paint comes out, Not like Powder Coat ?. Cheers Bill.
 
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