Oh yes Bill I agree there is a difference but fortunately which is better is a matter of taste or indiference
Help With Rear Comet Hub Shim Clearence
- Thread starter Steve Burden
- Start date
It's not too bad if you keep them apart, But if the two different parts are close or touching, To me it looks all wrong. Cheers Bill.Oh yes Bill I agree there is a difference but fortunately which is better is a matter of taste or indiference
There are a myriad of "black" paints as well so you must always use the same or it shows.
On my Egli Comet still being built I looked hard at the rear alloy mudguard and rear plate I had just fabricated and fitted and it just looked well lets say OK structually but it was missing something. I took it off and had it black powder coated now it looks fine. In fact it has given me an idea, my cooking Comet has original Birmabright mudguards that went through the sixties and part of the seventies wearing a white powder coat not of paint but aluminium corrosion the guards now are still solid but have that ingrained patina of corrosion that will never polish out ('never' in this context means life is too short) I have it in mind to powder coat them black resulting in a touring guard look with sporting weight, of course the machine will have to take its place in the queue of jobs meantime I will find a moment with paint.net and see what colour I could use
I had a set of handle bars and a set of fork seal holders powder coated in the faux chrome that is available. To me it looks like similar to either brushed and anodized aluminum or hard chrome. I think it's quite nice looking.
Steven
Been a while since I worked on the Comet but put in a few hours in this week. Managed to dissolve all the powder coat off the Spoke Flanges and had the hub aqua blasted along with the spokes and the spoke nipples so for now i'm re-using the spokes. Gave the spoke flanges a spray with Hammerite Smooth black satin paint not too thick. Put it all together today and its as true as its going to be looks good. So now I have the part I am not looking forward to. Re-building the wheel.
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Our Bruce told us about, http://agwalker.com/wheelbuilding.html Just keep looking at the photos of how the spokes were, Hope you took them ?,
Good Luck, Bill.
Now if you had built a Taveners jig (See book 'the Vintage motorcycle workshop') before you pulled the wheel apart you would find it a doddle I was amazed how close my Difazio wheel came out (I would never have tried it but a hub center steerer does not have a fixed wheel spindle so a jig is the only way)
just put the hub in the center and secure it add the rim onto the jig brackets thread in the spokes tighten them up to equal tension and if its not within a maximum of a 1/32nd I would be supprised so final truing is a doddle (I did not need to)
Just a quick one, Make sure the hub ends up dead centre, It will move a bit as you tighten the spokes, As in, If you check with straight edges from hub flange to outside edge of rim. I had a top bloke !!, Do a front wheel for me and I have to space over the wheel in the forks !!. Cheers Bill.
The Vintage Motorcyclists Workshop is a fairly expensive book to purchase - but it is available free as a pdf online at http://www.billymegawatt.com/uploads/6/8/4/6/6846461/the-vintage-motorcyclists-workshop.pdf
SteveE
Taverners jig page 30 onwards