hello from a state of disassembly.

[dave g6xnc]

mono blocks

these appeareed in the early 50's and continued into the late sixties, series D's had monoblocks as a standard fitment. Dunno what you were saying about the valve lifter buit don't try starting the bike without one or apart from having a job to kick it over you'll damage the kick stater mech after a while, it puts so much strain on everything, including your leg!.
dave gs. A 48 sprocket would be best as these bikes are very high geard
as standard when you start riding it you will probably find your only in third when you think your in top!. Don't fir get these were designed for old time traffic conditions niot the modern night mare. My 1150 BMW gs has a high bottom gear and is not wonderful in traffic so I lowered the gearing slightly and boy what a difference. bit more involved than changing a sprocket though!. Try the 48 see how you go keep an eye on the speedo as well!.
dave ( I hate christmas ) GS.

 

[lindie]

sitting here 8 hours later, and the stupid grin still hasn't abated. put my mounts and carbs on this morning and put on some basic fuel lines. cleaned out the bowls and ran some cables. refitted the stop valve to the oil tank and filled with some 15/40 diesel multigrade. fitted the recently re-nippled clutch cable and it operated fine. pulled the plugs and kicked hell for leather to get a bit of oil to the top end. checked for spark, re installed plugs and found a leak in the back carb once the chambers were flooded. sorted that, put the choke on and gave one kick and one only. and the old girl started and ran consistently till i closed the throttles when she got low on fuel. i'm pretty stoked.

 

[nkt267]

You can't beat that feeling when your bike starts for the first time. John

 

[lindie]

got that right. two in two days as my dt200 got a fresh piston and fired up easly on the day before. may now start looking into buying some vital stuff as i can now warrant the outlay. a muffler and some wiring will be first priorities so a test ride might be achieved as to iron out any potential bugs.

glen.

 

[lindie]

good afternoon. just wondering how bramptons would react to a hydraulic damper being fitted to the rear end in supplication of tension on the friction dampers? the upper and rear frame members are series C so the gap is there and she would have had one there in the beginning. is there a number for the koni/spax unit and are they still produced?

thanks.

 

[bmetcalf]

Try this http://www.ikonsuspension.com/conte...ock_absorbers/vincent_shock_application.shtml
They are even in Oz.

 

[lindie]

thanks bruce. they're prices delivered look pretty attractive too.

nother pair of question's while i'm at it then i've a couple of piccies for the faithful.

she's got absolutely fragged tank rubbers and a dent in the left front of said receptacle. it was dead on at the height and location of the front forks on full lock and doesn't look fresh. from memory i had test swung the bars and the components met.

was there an altered headstock between years that will make my "C" stamped UFM less than pleasantly compatible with my B series forks? i don't like sanding at the best of times and hope that i'll never need to repaint the thing ever again.

and could someone post a close shot of the bolts that hold the headstock to the tank from both sides please as i can't imagine the flat underheaded abortions that are there now are factory fare and i'd rather my steering head never parts company with the rest of the bike. (such an action could substantially stretch my control cables and stain my seat.)

anyone into mecchano? this is the result of yesterday to allow painting of the forks and swingarm:

 

[timetraveller]

OOOPPPPSSSS!!! Graham. Your festive colour scheme makes all these pics look as though everything is mildewed. I assume they aren't; and his pics run off the right hand side of the screen which is what others might be having trouble with. Cheers.

 

[lindie]

sadly, thats quality nokia 6120 mildew. under unnatural light. post two and a half pints of dads home made beer.

so chances are what you're seeing is how i was seeing it anyway.

the red and green is somewhat violent but in keeping with the time of year and feasibly the limited duration of said festivities, it can't hurt (more than the eyes) much.

in the interest of global warming elimination however, can i retain my "glen is online" tree beyond the christmas cutoff and through next year?

 

[donrapide]

By 'flat underheaded' I take it you mean an ordinary hex bolt, with a normal flat underside and thinned down in thickness. The other end being a countersunk nut

These were a standard fitment, later changed to a stud with countersunk nuts on each end.

The 'flat underheaded' were fitted alternatively from one side and then the other on the ones I've seen.

I made to replace my c/s nuts type, which I don't like as you have a threaded part of the stud in shear, some High Tensile bolts with the underside of the head turned to suit the exisisting countersinking.

I then fitted these alternatively from one side and then the other with nuts again turned to fit the countersinking.

If you went this way you would have to countersing the UFM, carefully!
I was told by Harpers that all replacement bolts would have to fitted with the aid of a jig to hold the headstock and oil tank together. I just changed them one by one and rode the bike many miles thereafter and it handled just as a Vincent should, which is excellently.

The reason I changed my studs was because some were loose and showed signs of fretting after some miles over rough ground, such as scramble tracks!