Forgot to say the first notch is the safety factor for the second position. So that if it does loosen, you will not lose the cap.
hello from a state of disassembly.
- Thread starter lindie
- Start date
Thanks for the good advice.
trev: my fuel cap is as you describe but i don't recall a hole in my oil cap. (should there be one? it is equipped with a dipstick and a sprung plate and cork seal but i've no idea if it was a part originally intended for the bike, and it seems the previous lots owner/s were not averse to the odd mix'n'match or bodge.)
bruce: on my second ride i left the cap undone fully to see if that would help though i'm unsure if it was to make much of a difference after the level of overfilling it had experienced. the chain oiler screw is fully down but may be defective as i noted a drip from the pipe when i initially added oil back in november. i'll try blocking the pipe at the outside of the tank as suggested and see how we go from there but i've also a few other leaks to chase while i'm about it. i'll possibly hook up the oiler once i determine it isn't sapping excessive amounts of lubricant but for now i'll eliminate it from the list of dribbles and hunt the rest. is there a restrictor built into the detachable oiler pipe are you aware?
thanks for your time.
anyone got a set of bramptons on the front of a "C" and do they hit the tank on full lock, or the region of the bars and levers on full compression?
There should be something like a carb air mixture screw in the block you can see with the cap off. KTB has a few paragraphs on the oiler. Also it says a std sump plug works at the back of the UFM.
Hi Bruce,
Sadly not on B's
I took the oppertunity to fit a blanking plug into the outlet on the rear of the UFM on my bitsa Comet.
Neil
Sadly not on B's
I took the oppertunity to fit a blanking plug into the outlet on the rear of the UFM on my bitsa Comet.
Neil
And in any case the adjusting screw is a waste of space. It might alter the flow slightly but it will not shut it off. Additionally, as the oil to the chain is fed onto the top run of the chain just before it goes round the small radius of the final drive sprocket, the oil gets thrown off rather than lubricating the chain. Vincents got most things right, but not everything!
I have to confess that I've never seen a proper one in the flesh. Could the tubing down to the chain be made longer and drip on the chain after it leaves the front sprocket? I assume a Scottoiler does that.
And in any case the adjusting screw is a waste of space. It might alter the flow slightly but it will not shut it off. Additionally, as the oil to the chain is fed onto the top run of the chain just before it goes round the small radius of the final drive sprocket, the oil gets thrown off rather than lubricating the chain. Vincents got most things right, but not everything!
If you get a chance to see an original then you will realise that it would be tricky to do what you suggest. I let my Scott oiler feed the chain on to the top of the lower run just before it goes round the rear sprocket and thus any oil is thrown into the chain or off to the rear. My experience of the original oiler is that it is very difficult/impossible to cut the flow down enough. That, and where the oil hits the chain, means that for me it is better closed off at the tank level. From my reading of these august pages it seems that modern 'o' ring or 'x' ring chains get rid of much of the need for an oiler.
Scott-oiler
Without disputing what you say, I'd like this discussion to stop. The last thing I want is to be forced to confront the fact that what I really have is a persistent leak into the kick-start cover from the gearbox. Particularly when I've fixed them all. Or from some other source, by devious, secret, means. So if you don't mind, I'll continue to put off the evil hour by playing with the Scottoiler (which delivers oil just where you describe).
The real genius of PEI was in ensuring that oil that leaks from any part of the motor manifest themselves somewhere else, somewhere remote, somewhere oil couldn't possibly travel to, thus ensuring that bonding between man and machine so necessary blah blah blah...
Tom
Without disputing what you say, I'd like this discussion to stop. The last thing I want is to be forced to confront the fact that what I really have is a persistent leak into the kick-start cover from the gearbox. Particularly when I've fixed them all. Or from some other source, by devious, secret, means. So if you don't mind, I'll continue to put off the evil hour by playing with the Scottoiler (which delivers oil just where you describe).
The real genius of PEI was in ensuring that oil that leaks from any part of the motor manifest themselves somewhere else, somewhere remote, somewhere oil couldn't possibly travel to, thus ensuring that bonding between man and machine so necessary blah blah blah...
Tom
that just made my day tom. if it's any consolation, marlene and i clocked over 7000 kilometers on the speedo yesterday and she's still as always has been, oiltight. i'm sure your etz 301 is, if alive probably still much the same but on the other hand the rapide matched the V max of 75 mph of the ES at a gentle lope with probably at least another 45 in hand so i can cut her a bit of slack if she wants to lubricate the pavement at times.
the saying over here goes that english bikes don't leak. (they are simply marking their territory)
the saying over here goes that english bikes don't leak. (they are simply marking their territory)