Greg Brillus Racer
- Thread starter davidd
- Start date
I will be interested in Greg's plan. I have always run the Series D axles as the tommy bars are a little heavy and in many cases tech will not pass them as they can snag or puncture the rider in a crash. You also have to wire the axle, the nut or both depending upon the configuration you use.
I would guess that the anchor strap might run from the spring box mount to that stud in front of the blade?
David
I would guess that the anchor strap might run from the spring box mount to that stud in front of the blade?
David
Given all the time-consuming design and machining work you've shown I'm almost embarrassed to ask this, but what paint did you use for the engine? And why did you choose it over other possibilities?
If you look inside the frontOk been to work for the day so now I can catch up where I left off this morning. Don't actually know what happened, but I some how sent my last post without finishing what I was trying to say.......!!! Anyway, The linings for the front and rear brakes were done By Vintage brake in the USA, at great cost....but the linings are supposed to be far better than the old Ferodo AM 4 material, so I am hopeful of having good brakes. Thanks for the pic of the original Lightning cam David.....The cams in mine are not only drilled through the cam face but also lengthwise down the shaft as well....It all helps. Ok as for the tommy bars, definitely no....I am using new axles, swing arm pivot bolt, footrest bolt, and all front fork spindles will be made from Titanium, which is about half the weight of steel. The cable anchors for the front brake are visible in the photo, and about 3/5 ths of the way up the link rod and to the left. David is correct re the backing plate anchor points which I will attach with through bolts where the lower attachment for the original spring box's were. Only item left to do on the front is make up some nice alloy air scoops, plenty of holes to let the heat out.....If you look inside the front hub, you can see the weight I wrote as being 4 kg's, Before I started it weighed just over 4.4 Kg's and this is not including the reduction of the parts to make up the brake plate assemblies including the cams, shoes etc.....Just off to have some dinner, back soon.
Hi there MAGNETOMAN, and welcome back by the way.....To answer your question, I am using Dupont 2pac enamel, which is done for me by a friend who works in the aviation game, and does a lot of work painting light aircraft and helicopters. The beauty of this is the paint has great coverage with a relatively thin coat. This is absolutely vital on an aircraft, as if it has too much paint on it, it will struggle to get into the air. We painted a twin engine aircraft years ago with a normal auto type of 2 pac, and when I did the balancing of the flight control surfaces ( Rudder, ailerons, etc) I had a hell of a time trying to get it anywhere near right, due to the thick coats of paint......Painting an engine in this seems ok to me, I will post some pics of the engine soon, Cheers............Greg.
Hi Greg
What is the make of rear shock? What length? I will need to find a shock soon.
I pick up my engine from Terry tomorrow
Happy days.
Graham
What is the make of rear shock? What length? I will need to find a shock soon.
I pick up my engine from Terry tomorrow
Happy days.Graham
Hi Graham, to answer your question.....they are a brand called "Fastace" which are a very good brand of shocks that seem to be made for off road Pit bikes, and of differing specs as to length, spring weight etc. The two I bought were a very close spec to the length and spring rates that I need.....However.....to fit one to a road bike, would not be impossible, but I had to modify one end (machine it thinner) to fit where the original "Upper" attachment is. And this is quite simple for use on the front.....but at the rear, I had to make a special bracket to fit where it attaches to the rear frame member. This worked out well, because as I said in an earlier post.....A coilover at the rear can bend the normal through bolts at both the front and rear attachment points. To be honest, you would be better off with one of Laney Thorntons units available Form Dave Molloy in the USA (see advert at rear of MPH). The ones I have chosen were about $100 AUD each, which is quite cheap, but the modifications could be an issue to some. If you want more info just let me know...........Greg. Ps: More pics coming soon.
thanks Greg. What length is your rear shock? With regards to the rear mount, I don't know what it is until I get my new swing arm from Colin Taylor. Modifying something is not a drama as most things on this bike will be modified in some way.
Will you be at Broadford on the week end?
Graham
Will you be at Broadford on the week end?
Graham
No unfortunately, Been wanting to go to it for years now.....but at Easter time.!! Anyways, going camping with my boys, which is always great fun. The center to center length of the eyes fully extended is 270 mm with 10 mm fixing holes, the shocker rod is 12 mm in diameter, spring is rated at 250 Lb.'s per inch, has a travel of about 82 mm from memory, is nitrogen filled, and has adjustable spring preload, and adjustable rebound on the shock. I had some other springs of differing rates made up which cost me $150 dollars for 4. I am really looking forward to seeing how the suspension turns out. The free movement of the lower link is amazing. I am aiming at the front spring having about 180 lbs. which is the same as the Bramptons had. The rear I will leave at the 250 lb. spring for now, and see how it feels.