B Touring Fender Stay holes

[Cyborg]

Can one of you fine fellows tell me what the distance is supposed to be between the leading edge of the front fender and the two mounting holes for the forward stay? Or if easier, the distance between the leading edge of the fender and the leading edge of the stay where it crosses over top of the fender. Assuming the mounting tabs on the stay face rearward.

 

[bmetcalf]

This is from ClevTrev about the rear blade, but bears repeating:

"Mudguard Drilling

1 Fit chainguard .
2. Fit rear lifting handle and bolt to chain guard.
3. Fit front part of hinge to blade.
4. Bolt that to the lifting handle.
5. You can now rotate the blade and see where it finishes up. Could be
you`ll need some spacers between the blade and the rear frame, to get the
best result.
Don`t drill yet.
6. Fit the rear part of hinge onto lower section of blade.
7. Now fit into hinge.
8. Lift rear stand and see how that looks.
9. If all is happy, NOW you can drill.

Just remember it`s the chainguard that determines where everything will
finish. And they are not all the same ! Well, you knew that, didn't you?"

 

[david bowen]

Touring fenders not the same stays as standard fenders

 

[shortun]

On a front touring mudguard from the centre of the leading edge to the stay hole is 6 inches on my original ones .

 

[davidd]

Can one of you fine fellows tell me what the distance is supposed to be between the leading edge of the front fender and the two mounting holes for the forward stay? Or if easier, the distance between the leading edge of the fender and the leading edge of the stay where it crosses over top of the fender. Assuming the mounting tabs on the stay face rearward.

On the touring fender I measured one hole was 4-7/8" from the leading edge and the other was 5-1/4" from the leading edge. The leading edge of the fender stay to the center most leading edge of the fender is 5". The discrepancy on the holes is due to the front edge of the fender not being cut symmetrically.

When the front stay is mounted (front and center) the rear of the fender usually curves in one direction and may not respond well to being forced into position. The same is true of the front of the fender if the rear is mounted first (rear and center). The front may curve off. You may have to make a compromise somewhere, so mock it up first before drilling holes. Mount the center first and see how the fender falls with the tire in place. I found that it was best to have the fender centered on the tire because that is how people look at the bike and see everything is lined up.

As David points out, the touring stays are different. I made by own and added the tabs after I lined everything up because the holes in the fender were already drilled. The stays and tabs were wildly off, but the fender was straight and the tire was centered. It all looked fine. Do a pretty complete mock up to make sure you will be happy with the big picture.

David

 

[Robert Watson]

I have a set of originals in my shop mounted on the bike still if you want to come and study them.....

 

[Cyborg]

Thank you gentlemen. Again much appreciated. Yes, doing a mock up, so I can weld shut the holes I don't need. File, hammer, straighten, scratch my head and curse a bunch before I apply paint. The 5" from the leading edge of the fender is interesting. These ones are 9", but I was informed when I bought the front fender that the holes were off. From looking at a couple of photos and videos on line, I would have guessed that it would have been around 6 or 7. I believe both of the stays I have are for touring fenders as they seem wide enough and long enough to do the job. I was just going to make the two L brackets which I assume attach to the pivot bolt for the balance beam, but perhaps under the circumstances, I should buy a pair, because I don't know their dimensions and they will help dictate how the puzzle goes together.

 

[david bowen]

New stays for touring fenders made by Bob Culver

 

[davidd]

I was just going to make the two L brackets which I assume attach to the pivot bolt for the balance beam, but perhaps under the circumstances, I should buy a pair, because I don't know their dimensions and they will help dictate how the puzzle goes together.

I think that is the right path. The center brackets will dictate the height of the fender above the tire. The fender may be able to tip for and aft a bit and it will be the fit of the stays that dictate how much. The stays, with some luck, will coincide with the arc of the fender. You then have to decide if your happy with the reveal in the front and back, that is, the distance the tips of the fender are from the tire. Once decided where the stays will be on the arc of the fender fore and aft, you can try centering the fender left to right on the tire for hole drilling. This should not take longer than a complete engine overhaul.

Best of luck!

David

 

[Hugo Myatt]

Thank you gentlemen. Again much appreciated. Yes, doing a mock up, so I can weld shut the holes I don't need. File, hammer, straighten, scratch my head and curse a bunch before I apply paint. The 5" from the leading edge of the fender is interesting. These ones are 9", but I was informed when I bought the front fender that the holes were off. From looking at a couple of photos and videos on line, I would have guessed that it would have been around 6 or 7. I believe both of the stays I have are for touring fenders as they seem wide enough and long enough to do the job. I was just going to make the two L brackets which I assume attach to the pivot bolt for the balance beam, but perhaps under the circumstances, I should buy a pair, because I don't know their dimensions and they will help dictate how the puzzle goes together.

A point worth noting is that the rear L bracket FF68 on the touring front guard is made of steel, presumably because of its greater weight.