Workshop Machinery and Techniques

ClassicBiker

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VOC Member
Looks like an ENCO 1340, which is what I have. My only complaint about it is the cheap plastic knobs. I really need to make some nice aluminum ones for it.
Steven
 

Monkeypants

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Non-VOC Member
Looks like an ENCO 1340, which is what I have. My only complaint about it is the cheap plastic knobs. I really need to make some nice aluminum ones for it.
Steven
You are correct, the Enco 1340 is the same machine. The swing is 13", not 12" as I posted.

The black knobs on this one are good quality. They appear to be of bakelite.

Glen
 
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ClassicBiker

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VOC Member
You're lucky then, when I got mine the knobs had little chips missing out of them on the end that meets up with the lever or were split from being tightened down to much. Over time it has only gotten worse as the threads are loose and whatever plastic mine are made out of seams to be, lack of a better term, drying out and splitting. But as I say that is my only complaint it is quite robust. About five or six years back, before ENCO was bought out by MSC, I purchased their Fagor DRO kit for lathes. Easy to put on and works well.
 

Cyborg

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VOC Member
Today’s project is to set up the head in the lathe and start facing the mating surfaces for the liner and muff. Although the face plate threads onto the small lathe, I’m thinking that holding it in the 4 jaw on the larger lathe will make it easier to align. Something closer to the jig that Marcus posted ( in another thread) would probably be better. Thinner than my plate so easier to tap into alignment.

B6E0EA51-C71C-4C87-B515-520EE0FBCD63.jpeg
 

oexing

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VOC Member
In case you only got single phase 220 V supply, get a variable frequency converter. This is extremely comfortable for various reasons. I would not want to live without one, the speed control knob on the bedslide, plus direction change switch as well. So you don´t mess around in the gearbox of the lathe much, as speed change is quick under operation to your likings , can help with chatter conditions when parting off . Thread cutting is nice too, have a medium speed in the gearbox and turn down speed on the VFC for thread cutting. So for reverse the spindle changes direction very quick , in a smooth mode. You can set accereration and deceleration ramps within your desired times in seconds, very smooth and nice to the vee-belts and all. As frequency can be set up to 400 Hz in Chinese standard VFC you could speed up the lathe or any other electric motor to 24000 rpm - if you feel so.
Typically 220 V single phase converters get limited to 2.2 kW three phase for common grids. When you got single phase supply and more than 16 A 220 V , converters are available with 5 kW and 7.5 kW three phase. Have a look into Aliexpress pages , or Ebay, the Chinese types are great for typical uses. But get an electrician for assistance for finetuning all parameters for low down good torque. Factory settings are not optimised for your needs on the lathe.

Vic
 

Cyborg

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VOC Member
I watched a video about a South Bend 9A that had been converted and can understand why it would be a worthwhile conversion. Probably even more important on the mill. Changing speeds with it’s Mickey Mouse belt setup is frustrating and it has caused some serious pain (literally). Once the dust settles with this bike and a few other things around here I should have a “come to Jesus“ meeting with myself and decide what stays, what goes, and what gets updated/ fixed.
 

Cyborg

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VOC Member
Or find an old Monarch-

The first part might be of interest however the threading info starts at 10.20 in

Glen
Before the McDougall arrived there was one similar to that on Craigslist. I waffled long enough and it was sold…. which was more or less intentional on my part… for reasons that make no sense.
You could just sell me yours.
 

Cyborg

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VOC Member
As the saying goes, this is more fun than a barrel of monkeys. The high spot on the recess for the liner is 180 degrees from the high spot on the muff mating surface. I assumed the countersink for the liner would be more or less concentric with the bolt circle for the studs, but leaning more to the less side of the equation. It appears as though I can clean up both mating surfaces without taking off too much material. I don’t think they have ever been turned since they left the factory. Hopefully the combustion chamber won’t be 60 CC’s by the time I’m finished.

6FFA4018-D56F-4E11-89D7-A7FF2C3119A6.jpeg
 
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