Workshop Machinery and Techniques

[Chris Launders]

Someone I used to know had sorted his own digital read out set up on his miller using modified digital Vernier calipers which bolted to brackets in various places so there was one for each axis, there being alternative positions along the bed so he could reposition that one if required.

 

[Cyborg]

Easier these days. I could put a quarter in the swear jar for every minute I spend looking for the little screwdriver or verniers and buy a DRO at the end of the week.

IGAGING,iGAGING 36"/MM EZ VIEW DRO PLUS SYSTEM,1-815-765,KBC Tools & Machinery

IGAGING,iGAGING 36/MM EZ VIEW DRO PLUS SYSTEM,1-815-765,KBC Tools & Machinery

www.kbctools.ca

 

[oexing]

For some jobs like thread cutting I prefer to look at the scale ring, not the DRO. It is just a bit easier to see where you want to stop the feed. With the DRO you have to keep in mind the final position for each axis and this needs some training not to get dizzy in the brain . In metric you first look at the full millimeter position, then count down the next decimal, the tenth of mm, then the 0.01 mm and in rarer cases the micron when turning bearing fits on the lathe maybe. Any digital readout can be useful as with a few more tools active on the lathe you give up marking scale rings with pencil , too many to get confused.
With quick change tool holders you do a test cut for each tool and dial the diameter of this cut into the DRO , in the corresponding tool number data. Also zero the tool on the front face for the bedway axis, so you can do lots of shoulders on the workpiece without headaches, the zero also stored in the tool number data.
You do this for each tool you are going to need for the job. Modern DROs got min. 10 tool numbers for saving so when changing tool holder you select the tool number and at once continue to machine effectively without checking sizes at all in between lots of times. At least for roughing no need for checking sizes but certainly when finishing to exact fits you´d do 3 or 4 light cuts at same depths for correction of cutting forces and enter new numbers in the DRO if diameter in DRO was found to be different to what you measured in last cuts.
It is immensely time saving , nerves as well, using the DRO when the job requires several lathe tools and you do some more parts .
The simpler single axis DRO in your link can be useful but there are reports that they are a bit sensitive to coolant, like most digital calipers. So it depends where you put them on the machine. Magnetic scale tapes are great in dirty conditions, I got my Sony Magnescale encoders since mid 80ties, some open tape types on the mill and lathe as well. Tapes can be great on small lathes for not fouling the tailstock in leftmost positions. For the bedway axis you could put the tape on the feed rack that sits under the Vee at the front, protected enough in that place, oil is no factor.
The time and the money for these electronics hurt only 2 or 3 weeks, later you´ll be happy for many years about this decision.

Vic

Magnetic sensor at end of shielded cable left, magnetic tape glued on upper part of rack, see line:

Magnescale open system, sensor in alu bracket, magnetic 2 mm wire 0.20 mm pitch poles :

with simple chip cover :

 

[Gene Nehring]

For some jobs like thread cutting I prefer to look at the scale ring, not the DRO. It is just a bit easier to see where you want to stop the feed. With the DRO you have to keep in mind the final position for each axis and this needs some training not to get dizzy in the brain . In metric you first look at the full millimeter position, then count down the next decimal, the tenth of mm, then the 0.01 mm and in rarer cases the micron when turning bearing fits on the lathe maybe. Any digital readout can be useful as with a few more tools active on the lathe you give up marking scale rings with pencil , too many to get confused.
With quick change tool holders you do a test cut for each tool and dial the diameter of this cut into the DRO , in the corresponding tool number data. Also zero the tool on the front face for the bedway axis, so you can do lots of shoulders on the workpiece without headaches, the zero also stored in the tool number data.
You do this for each tool you are going to need for the job. Modern DROs got min. 10 tool numbers for saving so when changing tool holder you select the tool number and at once continue to machine effectively without checking sizes at all in between lots of times. At least for roughing no need for checking sizes but certainly when finishing to exact fits you´d do 3 or 4 light cuts at same depths for correction of cutting forces and enter new numbers in the DRO if diameter in DRO was found to be different to what you measured in last cuts.
It is immensely time saving , nerves as well, using the DRO when the job requires several lathe tools and you do some more parts .
The simpler single axis DRO in your link can be useful but there are reports that they are a bit sensitive to coolant, like most digital calipers. So it depends where you put them on the machine. Magnetic scale tapes are great in dirty conditions, I got my Sony Magnescale encoders since mid 80ties, some open tape types on the mill and lathe as well. Tapes can be great on small lathes for not fouling the tailstock in leftmost positions. For the bedway axis you could put the tape on the feed rack that sits under the Vee at the front, protected enough in that place, oil is no factor.
The time and the money for these electronics hurt only 2 or 3 weeks, later you´ll be happy for many years about this decision.

Vic

Magnetic sensor at end of shielded cable left, magnetic tape glued on upper part of rack, see line:
View attachment 47709


Magnescale open system, sensor in alu bracket, magnetic 2 mm wire 0.20 mm pitch poles :
View attachment 47710

with simple chip cover :
View attachment 47711

Vic, those multifix tool posts are the business. I have to confess that mine is a Chinese clone, it is made to a good standard for an amateur like me.

Ken, my Hercus 9A (south bend built under license in Australia) is from 1947 and runs beautifully.

Gene.

 

[Cyborg]

Vic,
I doubt if there is a Sony Magnescale in my future. That magnetic scale tape looks interesting. Some of the displays look scary from a quality point of view, but definitely cheap. I’m a little nervous about their electronics. My ultrasonic cleaner has deteriorated to the point where it is only useful for keeping my soup warm.
Before I consider adding DRO to the lathe, I need to decide what direction I’m going. Do I invest in the machines I have or move up a few notches first… I would also like a larger mill, but none of this really makes much sense considering the amount of work I do.

 

[Magnetoman]

I've moved posts related to lathes, millers, etc and setup to: https://www.vincentownersclub.co.uk/threads/workshop-machinery-and-techniques.16908/

Machining is Vincent-related. Rebuilding and restoration expertise for old motorcycles is continuously being lost as people retire and shops close their doors. What this means is, as commercial shops disappear, more people who are interested in these old machines will have to take on more of the work themselves, and this work often requires more than bolting new reproduction parts in place.

Completely rebuilding a Vincent can require milling, latheing, honing, pressing, pulling, TIGing, torching, brazing, soldering, grinding, cutting, magnetizing, magnafluxing, painting, and probably a few other '-ings' I can't remember at the moment, all of which can be done by someone in their own garage if they are aware of the necessary tools and techniques.

Unfortunately, burying all the Vincent-related techniques mentioned in the previous paragraph into one thread in the "Everything Else (Not Vincent Related)" forum, that's hidden amongst the almost 1600 other threads that actually are unrelated, ensures most people who are rebuilding Vincents and who could benefit from this information, are unlikely ever to find it.

 

[oexing]

Sony is allright in my country when you got the time waiting for items in Ebay to show up. They seem to be a lot more expensive in America, like some more things. I paid huge money 40 years ago for new Sony equipment, saved some money by having my company pay as official customer. So I had no tax to pay at least. When deciding on DROs don´t worry too much about Chinese types, in case of an electronic defect it will not be big money. So you just get a replacement, a lot more money was injected in Vincents or whatever. One thing I´d want to have is a counter display with LCD screen, much nicer to read than 7 segment types. This is most comfortable on the mill when you want to use fancy features for milling when no CNC mill near you or they got no time for mini jobs .
Seems in modern times you will have more and more problems to find a company for private mc work as CNC is there for all year orders and no time left for traditional milling and turning mechanical bits. So only alternative is do as best as you can and do all jobs yourself, exactly as you like them, pastime waisted a lot on obsolete motorbikes or whatever. But yes, you have to take some joy out of machine work so not an option for everybody.
My three lathes were all new, first one from Taiwan, two from China, quite allright for my requirements. I did not want to spend weeks of overhauling worn bedways on European trade machines with their drawbacks like excessive weight, non-standard or obsolete spindles with hard to find accessories, never a problem with modern Chinese machines. Yes, you may find details that are a bit agricultural or poorly finished, but for hobby use a great compromise and more useful than some classics.

Vic

favorite lathe on second floor:

 

[Cyborg]

I have managed to slowly occupy the entire main floor with the exception of the area reserved for the washer, dryer and furnace. As long as I don’t do anything that stinks, things remain peaceful. Invading the (upstairs) main floor would likely not end well.

Our power supply (single phase) is a pain. Most of the larger machines that show up for sale here locally are 3 phase and not always economical to convert.

Gene, when I was trying to determine the age of the 9A, I came across that website in the UK. It’s amazing how many of them were made under license in different countries.… with different brand names. It is a nice lathe, but like owning a boat… if it was just a little bit bigger.

 

[ClassicBiker]

I thought your power up there was the same as ours, 220 volt / 2 phase into the house and broken down in the breaker box to 110 volt / single phase out of the wall socket. The larger of my two lathes runs 220 in the basement. My mill is 3 phase with a rotary phase converter so that it will run on 220 in the garage.
Steven

 

[Monkeypants]

I've read that this Taiwan built Tida is a copy of some model of SouthBend. It is a 12" swing, light duty machine. One nice thing about it is the inclusion of both metric and imperial gears for threading.
These lathes were thought to be cheap junk when they arrived in North America in the 80s. Nowadays they are thought of as well built machines, for hobby or light commercial level use. They have stood up very well over time.
This one went into a custom Bakery equipment business. None of the tradesmen there would use it as it cut on a taper.
The owner gave it to me a few years ago. After some adjusting instructions from Dan Smith it no longer cuts on a taper ( unless you want to!)
It was never set up properly when new, so it saw very little use and the bed is as new.
That crew had a larger Chek built lathe to use instead.
All of the info on set up is also in the manual, I guess no one read it!
I added a DRO and a cheapie Chinese quick change tool post, now it is quite a decent little lathe.