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C: Clutch Won't shift

Denny653

Active Website User
VOC Member
When I bought my Black Shadow this fall, my first official act was to break my kicker cover with a manly kick. I am only somewhat mechanical, but I removed the cover, had a friend TIG it, another paint it, and then I reassembled it. Next, I attempted to adjust the clutch. I reset cable so that the G91 touched the abutment the with the clutch lever in. I then adjusted the free play in the cable. I checked it by the slack in the cable at the top of the G91 with the clutch lever released.

Started the bike, let it warm up a bit, and then started down the street from my shop. It sounded good, but when I pulled in the clutch, it wouldn't shift into second. I went around the block in first gear and put it away. Ideas? ...and thank you as always.

By the way, a friend allowed me to ride his Rapide late in the summer and he told me that he usually kicks the gear indicator into first with his heel and that is what I did.
 

Marcus Bowden

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I've made one but not fitted yet, years ago but thought it a good idea at the time. But my stelited G91 is barely marked but that was done when cutting push rod in two & roller fitting and it's been several years since the outer clutch plate was fitted with steadying thrust bearing. and only operating with four clutch springs.
bananaman.
 
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Bill Cannon

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
When I bought my Black Shadow this fall, my first official act was to break my kicker cover with a manly kick. I am only somewhat mechanical, but I removed the cover, had a friend TIG it, another paint it, and then I reassembled it. Next, I attempted to adjust the clutch. I reset cable so that the G91 touched the abutment the with the clutch lever in. I then adjusted the free play in the cable. I checked it by the slack in the cable at the top of the G91 with the clutch lever released.

Started the bike, let it warm up a bit, and then started down the street from my shop. It sounded good, but when I pulled in the clutch, it wouldn't shift into second. I went around the block in first gear and put it away. Ideas? ...and thank you as always.

By the way, a friend allowed me to ride his Rapide late in the summer and he told me that he usually kicks the gear indicator into first with his heel and that is what I did.
You've had a lot of replies about the clutch, but given that you rode away in first gear but couldn't change into second suggests this is a problem with the gear quadrant adjustment. You should be able to change gear without the clutch at all, so clutch problems do not fit your symptoms. I have just had the same problem having set the quadrant adjustment wrongly by mistake. After correction normal gear change has been restored. Adjustment procedure is explained in the rider handbook.
Good luck Bill
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Pretty sure I am wrong, But having seen a lot of pushrods bore into the arm,
Never liked the idea,
So I put the plunger in facing the pushrod, But I also assy' the pushrod with copperslip,
And one or two 1/4" 1/4" rollers in the middle, So that might have worked with the plunger the right way ??.
 

Mikethebike

Active Website User
VOC Member
Pretty sure I am wrong, But having seen a lot of pushrods bore into the arm,
Never liked the idea,
So I put the plunger in facing the pushrod, But I also assy' the pushrod with copperslip,
And one or two 1/4" 1/4" rollers in the middle, So that might have worked with the plunger the right way ??.
The standard plunger isn't hard enough to use reversed, though apparently it works if you can guarantee that that end of the rod doesn't rotate. Otherwise it needs remaking in silver steel. See Roy Cross's comments in MPH861
Mike
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Lots of "years ago, I snapped the arm in two !!,
Dear old Bill Hancock, Said ," Well if you will use a Norton Clutch ",
Bill was our " Standard Man in the day ",
Found out later He too used a Norton Clutch !, On His Outfit !.
I was using very heavy springs for Sprinting,
I use a standard clutch now for the road.
 

ossie

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Pretty sure I am wrong, But having seen a lot of pushrods bore into the arm,
Never liked the idea,
So I put the plunger in facing the pushrod, But I also assy' the pushrod with copperslip,
And one or two 1/4" 1/4" rollers in the middle, So that might have worked with the plunger the right way ??.
i was going to send an artical on this to Graham maybe i will.
 

Denny653

Active Website User
VOC Member
OK. I'm back at it. With the bike on the center stand, I can spin the tire and shift through all four gears
with the gear indicator, but not the shift pedal. I can also kick it through with the clutch lever in. I have
had the kicker cover off the repair it and put it back together. Maybe something on the reassembly?
Thanks
Denny
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I think the gearchange on the twin (and a few other boxes that use the pawl arrangement) is a very difficult thing to get right. I have been playing with it for fifty years and I still think I am missing something it should not be such a hit and miss arrangement if I do one tomorrow it may be perfect then again...
The instructions say there should be a gap on the pawl and the tooth G43 and G59AS I have found many where that gap (unspecified) does not exist and moving the various components does not make it appear I dimly remember a mod where a blob of weld is employed in that scenario.
I dont have many problems with over selection as without a kick-start I have room to use a modified G61 with screws to adjust the throw of the arm rather than a couple of bent tin ears.
All in all it needs an mind greater than mine (and Robinson?) to properly explain its operation and adjustment. Que the slow mo camera?
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
No battery tube on the racer so unless distortion of G50 plate is a requirement its not a contributing item to the adjustment problems of the gear change I am talking about
 

Nigel Spaxman

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Pretty sure I am wrong, But having seen a lot of pushrods bore into the arm,
Never liked the idea,
So I put the plunger in facing the pushrod, But I also assy' the pushrod with copperslip,
And one or two 1/4" 1/4" rollers in the middle, So that might have worked with the plunger the right way ??.
I also run my plunger facing the pushrod so that it is backwards compared with the way it was intended. Also I tipped the plunger with a piece of solid carbide silver soldered in place. I adjusted the selector mechanism using the instructions in Richardson and my bike shifts perfectly. Most other bikes don't have these adjustments, the parts are just machined accurately enough so no adjustment is required, or any adjustment has to be done by machining or welding. I got the G61 that has the ears on it. That one is supposed to help you adjust the gearbox so it won't overshift.
 

Denny653

Active Website User
VOC Member
Back to work on the Shadow. I was going through the book of 40 years of the RPM tech articles.
There is mention of the battery carrier tube length that b'nighted spoke of above. I don't think that I messed with that when I removed and replaced the kicker cover. I think it's possible that I messed up something in the process. Now I am wondering how the length of the battery tube is adjusted. And THANKS everyone.
 

BigEd

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
VOC Forum Moderator
Back to work on the Shadow. I was going through the book of 40 years of the RPM tech articles.
There is mention of the battery carrier tube length that b'nighted spoke of above. I don't think that I messed with that when I removed and replaced the kicker cover. I think it's possible that I messed up something in the process. Now I am wondering how the length of the battery tube is adjusted. And THANKS everyone.
The length of the tube itself isn't actually adjusted but the large E80 nut at the gear cover end is adjusted so that it is just nipped up and locked against the G50 plate. If it is turned towards the G50 plate too hard it can distort the G50 plate outwards. If it is loose the G50 plate could be distorted inwards when the long footrest hanger through bolt is tightened. It is also possible that the expansion of the crankcases can also effect G50 plate distortion if the adjustment of the E80 nut is wrong.

If the gears are all available using the indicator, studying and carefully following the pictures and text in Richardson is the first things I would do.
 
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