C: Clutch Won't shift

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BigEd

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erik said:
@ Ed . I have a multiplate Clutch fitted.Erik
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I am using a Vincent clutch but when I had a multi-plate clutch fitted I got an ET27/2SS clutch adjuster from the Spares Co that gave a little more lift.
 
Michael Vane-Hunt

Michael Vane-Hunt

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timetraveller said:
Erik Greg is right to ask the first question, does the clutch disengage properly. That is if you pull in the clutch on the handlebar lever can you kick the bike over freely? If you can then it is probably not the clutch. Greg is also correct in that you can find if things in the gearbox are probably ok by rotating the rear wheel and trying to change gear with either the foot lever or the gear indicator. If that is ok then you need to check the gear change mechanism. That is a pain in the rear as you have to remove the exhaust pipes, the kick start lever and the kick start cover together with the various levers etc. That is one of the reasons I cut the kick starter lever into two parts but that is a step too far for many people. Once you have the cover off then you can check the alignment and clearances of all the bits and pieces which operate the gearchange. If they are all correct then you might have a more serious problem but let us be more optimistic than that.
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Best not to cut the kickstart LEVER in two.
 
erik

erik

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Everything is fine with my gearbox and Clutch.Now I`m Fitting the Grosset starter and it should be a straight go .Erik
 
M

Mikethebike

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BigEd said:
The gear indicator is just that, an indicator. However, if your gearchange mechanism for some reason goes out of adjustment the indicator can, and has happened once to me, get you home. Kicking it sounds brutal and likely lead to your next repair. The picture below should explain the clutch cable adjustment.
Re: Kickstarting. You don't really need a "manly" kick if you use the following technique.
  1. Petrol on, set your choke and advance retard levers if fitted, sometimes the carburettors may want a tickle.
  2. Throttle set to hardly open, pull in and hold the valve lifter.
  3. Swing the kickstart down which should be easy as there is no compression with the valves are lifted.
  4. As the kickstart nears the end of travel let go of the valve lifter. The flywheel inertia takes the pistons over compression. Less strain on the components and you leg. Getting the co-ordination right may take a bit of practice.
The kickstart cover should have a spring-loaded plunger/stop to prevent damage at full kickstart quadrant travel.View attachment 38797
1. With the h/bar lever pulled back to the bar use the adjuster in the clutch cable to get 1/16” clearance between the end of the G91 clutch lever and the cable abutment that protrudes into the gear cover.

2. Screw the ET27 adjuster in/out to get 3/16” slack in the cable at the handlebar with the lever released.
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A word of caution: in this MO28 drawing, the G91 lever is shown straight, which not the case. It is possible to get a condition where the top of the lever is back as far as it will go, with the slack taken out of the cable, but the middle of the lever (which is actually convex) is against the inside of the cover. Is this drawing of a later mod (Series D)? I've not seen the 1/16" gap specified before, either.
Mike
 
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timetraveller

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G93 is not really a plunger. It is there to hold G91 in place. that is stop it moving up or down, while still allowing it to pivot. The push rod actually is pushed by the side of the G91, which can wear into a hole where they contact. The modification which uses a non standard, short fork ended push rod prevents that wear but has to be made carefully.
 
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