V3 Clutch

Monkeypants

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Or you can keep the two compartments separate. That way two different oils can be used if desired and the chain oil stays clean for a long, long time.

. The steel plates with dimples are an old design . The clutch on my 63 Matchless G80CS had those installed when I got the bike, which was in 1969. The clutch on that bike did work well compared to others I experienced at that time.

Glen
 
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Goffy998

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I too had dragging with the V3. Barnet friction plates , coined steel plates, the clubs ET27/2SS, a mushroom 'pusher' against the pressure plate & 0-20 synthetic engine oil all gave slight improvements. I now have a clutch that crashes into first but is otherwise quite useable. Why does the V3 need all this fettling to cure dragging when the Kawasaki clutch it is based on runs in engine oil runs in engine oil?
 

greg brillus

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VOC Member
I think the main problem is that the original Vincent clutch opperating mechanism was only designed to lift one plate, whereas we are now trying to get it to lift and free off a multi plate. I've found they work best if you either give the mechanism more travel with whatever means you can, or else run it dry. The centrifical force throws out the oil once running, and once freed off then they work fine....try putting the machine into 2nd gear first, then back to 1st.....afterwhich all should be fine.......cheers.....Greg.
 

ernie

VOC Assistant Secretary
VOC Member
Both my bikes have them running dry. Clutch lever has a 1 1/8" from pivot to nipple and the lever is located on the bend of the bar for a little extra clearance. Operating lever is set for maximum lift. Oil the plates annually to prevent it becoming grabby. Both work well.

Ernie
 

Monkeypants

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Non-VOC Member
Good points Ernie, I have my clutch lever setup the same way. In fact there are also 1.25" centres available, although they are not common. To get max lift,the clutch is set with no slack in the cable cold, slack comes in a few miles down the road when things warm up and expand.Because of the lack of cable slack, the clutch can sometimes be made to slip during the warm up, but doesnt present a problem as it is time for easy going. This way there is still ample lift when you need it, stuck in stop start traffic in 100f heat!
Glen
 

roy the mechanic

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VOC Member
I'm quite convinced that a lot of the troubles are caused by using oils like mobil 1! These synthetic oils have a high ammount of p tfe in their make-up, that's the same stuff used in non-stick frying pans. Think about it, a clutch is supposed to work by FRICTION you have just given it the "most slippery oil " to work in! TRy dexron auto fluid, it is made to work in clutches, been using it in many motor cycles fo 40+ years, by the way, it works really well in vin dampers too.
 
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