There is a tax to be paid if you wish to discuss other, lesser, marques on this forum..The tax shall be paid in the currency of my choice, namely single malt scotch whisky of at least 16 years old, preferably a double wood and being cask strength.
Firstly... Thanks for all the input on this question.
I checked the clutch in terms of running true on the shaft and there was no problem on that front.
I dismantled the clutch and got stuck into the steel plates with some 600 wet and dry. I dipped the plates in turps to add the "wet" bit to the wet and dry. I had this suggested to me by a Ducati owner who reckons there is an issue with the steel plates ending up with a glaze when the clutch is used hard. There was a noticeable change in the surface of the steel plates after rubbing them down, going from shiny with noticeable marking to a flat matt metal finish.
On reassembly and using ATF instead of 0W30, the clutch is much, much better and is now "amost human". Not as easy as the dry clutch on my Commando but pretty good. I will wait the mandatory 4 months or 400 miles before coming to a final assessment on the outcome.
Had a brief exchange with Neal. He is about to change to a new type of steel plate which has dimples in it. The dimples are pressed in to stress both sides of the plate to stop it from warping but also designed help the release of the clutch. They won't be available until September.
I have Too a V3, works very fine (with sprocket on low axial movement..and all allined and in dead centre) and Harly D primary chain case oil (better for chain than ATF) Further to improve, I have made a drain in the clutch compartiment to let oil off every 500km,(or complete rally trip) and refill on the chain, the oil comming off is very dirty and I guess the reason why it might drag or slip.
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