Several of you folks here claim to know the accuracy of various gauges. Aside trusting manufacturers' quoted specs, how exactly does one come by that knowledge?
Good answer. I don't know if the Halfords one is available in the USA but I doubt it would fit on certain vehicles. For example, my '82 R100RS with "snowflake" wheels. The valve stem is right up against one of the "spokes", leaving very little room. I guess I'll continue resorting to feel on the road.
I use the pressure visualiser caps... All are PSI so 36, 38, 42 etc. Then I have a Michelin digital pump and a
Michelin pressure gauge. Unless you are racing MGP or SNK the +/- 1 psi makes no difference.
Then again my BMW F800 gives me a real time read out and how can I argue with that?
Michelin pressure gauge. Unless you are racing MGP or SNK the +/- 1 psi makes no difference.
Then again my BMW F800 gives me a real time read out and how can I argue with that?
Useful. Not sure how it does that.
Modern vehicles have tire pressure monitors that are fitted inside tubeless wheel/tire combos. The devise is then linked to the body control module (on board computer that controls everything except engine functions) of the vehicle via blue tooth. As each wheel has a monitor within it and each has a digital code to identify it to the BCM each individual wheel can be monitored in real time. If a wheel loses pressure to such an extent that it would become dangerous a warning signal is sent to the BCM which then alerts the driver to the problem, immediately if the vehicle is in motion or upon startup if the vehicle has been sitting idle. Other than added complexity, cost, and a small weight gain on motorcycles it isn't a bad thing as the front wheel is always the front wheel and the back wheel is always the back wheel. On vehicles where the wheels get rotated to minimize tire wear it must be remembered to reprogram which wheel is in which corner of the vehicle, if the system does not automatically triangulate where a particular wheel is located.
Steven
My take on the automatic signalling is born of eight years with my GS BMW in spite of even spending a silly amount on a bmw garage check (to no avail) the back tyre slowly looses pressure over a couple of weeks or so, Its no problem if I go touring, it lasts( eg Sadinia and back) its OK but leave it an indeterminate time and up comes the warning pressure low signal (at say -1lb pressure) That in itself is OK but it only happens after a mile from start, a mile into the journey, a mile from my compressor, its a real downer to return. Its a pity it wont activate and diagnose when I turn on the ignition. Would I worry if it was one lb pressure under the recommended level? No, Do I worry when the dam light sits there blinking telling me the same?, of course!
Last year I had the both the car and the truck signaling low pressure on a tire every time the wife or I fired them up. I couldn't find any puncture, no valve leak, no one messing with vehicles. Six year old and eight year old sets of tires respectively. A new set on each vehicle at around $800 a set and the problem went away. Sometimes I begin to think it's all a conspiracy to separate me from my hard earned money.
Still like to know..... (apart from Pete H) the most accurate gauge in the world is no good if you don't know what you are measuring
Such a simple question, I am really surprised that 4 pages in no one has come forward with some guideline figures.