• Welcome to the website of the Vincent H.R.D. Owners Club.

    Should you have any questions relating to the Vincent H.R.D. Owners Club, or Vincent H.R.D. motorcycles in general, please contact Graham Smith, Hon. Editor and Webmaster by calling 07977 001 025 or please CLICK HERE.

    You are unrecognised, and therefore, only have VERY restricted access to the many features of this website.

    If you have previously registered to use this forum, you should log in now. CLICK HERE.

    If you have never registered to use this website before, please CLICK HERE.

Misc: Charging Systems Series ‘C’ Rapide Battery Not Charging


danno

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
Thanks. I’ll check for a gap between teeth and link rollers. I see the ET221 cradle in the spares list and makes sense now.
Have just made up an alloy plate to mount the regulator on but just would like to check the orientation of ET176/1 clamp.
I’m assuming it goes on as per the spares list. The other way round, the clamp butts up against the dynamo housing but does fit.
Didn’t make a note when taking it off.
 

danno

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
Thanks for the confirmation.
It’s taking shape. Making up regulator mount plate took a bit of time and filing.
With sprocket tightened up there’s a little movement side to side so hope this will be ok.
Hard to check for a gap vertically but have rotated the Alton so it’s at the highest.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

bmetcalf

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Hard to check for a gap vertically but have rotated the Alton so it’s at the highest.
Just eyeball the gap where the arrow is pointing, no fancy measurements are needed. You do not want to have too little tooth engagement.

Gap.png
 

Dave61

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Danno,
Just a thought as I`ve only recently fitted my Walkernator from Timetraveller, I wonder whether you should lockwire the Allen bolts holding your sprocket on.
Maybe someone with better knowledge than me can say yes or no.
Cheers
Dave
 

greg brillus

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
The chainwheel assembly wobbles around quite a bit, this is why the sprocket needs room to move or else it will be noisy, and very noticeable at low engine speed. The outer allen cap screws are fine, but the center one is too short, needs to be about 5 or 6 mm longer.........I use a medium strength loctite on all these, but only do this once you have run the engine and all appears to be fine, with no bad noises emitting from the alton, and the system charging as it should. I would say at least 50% of the time I reinstall the original steel drive sprocket, these are skinnier in the teeth than the plastic sprocket...........Good luck with it all.
 

danno

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
Danno,
Just a thought as I`ve only recently fitted my Walkernator from Timetraveller, I wonder whether you should lockwire the Allen bolts holding your sprocket on.
Maybe someone with better knowledge than me can say yes or no.
Cheers
Dave
Ok. No mention of this in the Alton instructions. Just thought that the new design did away with the locking requirement.
I sold my old pillar drill which would have useful here. So all three bolts would need
a small hole drilled?
 

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Just to make clear why Dave61 asks the question. With the Walkernators I supply a 3/8" BSF high tensile steel central bolt and a 1/4" BSW short socket headed screw to fix the sprocket on. Both are pre drilled for locking wire to be used and enough locking wire for at least two attempts. My reasoning behind this is that the system is capable of supplying up to nearly half a kilowatt and that, in very round figures, is half a horse power. It will never do this unless the.bike is started with a flat battery and then only for seconds until the battery volts have risen. Unlike some permanent magnet systems only enough power is produced to balance whatever is required by the load being imposed, light, ignition and so on. Therefore most of the time the system takes less power from the engine than some other systems. However, half a horse power is a lot more than the two Phils would ever have imagined and that is not a good place in the drive train to have a failure. You can't use the same 3/8" central bolt in other systems but you can make use of the offset hole in the pinion and wire lock the parts together.
 

peter holmes

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
My advice would be never start off with a discharged battery, I now have a Grosset electric start so always keep my battery topped up, once the starter has been used the ammeter shows a heavy charge for a second or two to replace what has been used by the starter and then settles very quickly to a central balance, that is using a Walkernator with a Nippon Denso, fantastic bit of kit, never let me down, fit and forget, carry a spare belt but never had to use it, never had a problem with the primary drive chain or sprockets, doesn't look standard, who cares!
 

danno

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
Hi
Just tidying up the wiring in the headlamp. I think it would be useful to keep the
red ignition/charge light.
The orange indicator lens/bulb holder is broken. The bulb with red lead was held in place with BluTak.
Charge bulb and holder also shown.
As these aren’t standard items, is there anywhere in the U.K that supplies classic bike electrical/lighting accessories?
Thanks
 

Attachments

Last edited:

stumpy lord

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Hi
The red charge light on my C Rapide isn’t going out whilst riding. The ampere meter is showing 2 on discharge.
The bike is fitted with Lucas Rita 12v ignition and while it starts ok, the battery is showing 10.5 volts after a run.
I’m not sure whether it’s the battery or the charging system that’s the problem.
Any help appreciated.
try Vehicle Wiring Products. they stock a huge selection of automotive electrical parts
www.vehicleproducts.co.uk phone number 0115 9305454

they are based at 9 buxton court, mannersindustrial estate, ilkiston, derbyshire, DE7 8EF. U.K.
 

danno

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
I bought some of these, For the next time I do electrics, They do, 2, 4, and 6 pin types, Only about £6 for a male / female pair, I might have to use a sealer, To keep the weather out. Cheers Bill.
Just wiring up the Alton and regulator.
The Miller and JG converter were connected with these in the pic. I have spares so will solder the plugs straight on to the bare wires of the Alton and Podtronics regulator.
Like the idea of the locking plugs. Tamiya RC type I think.
 

Attachments

bmetcalf

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
There may be shellac on the Alton wires that needs to be sanded off for a good solder job.
 

bmetcalf

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
The Alton alternator isn't connected to your plugs. I was referring to your post #196.
 

danno

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
I have the Alton and regulator wired up. The ignition/charge bulb is joined in with one of the black Alton leads. The bulb’s other lead is connected to the ignition switch but it doesn’t light when switched on.
The bulb’s ok and it’s wired in the same as the JG.
Doesn’t matter too much as the ammeter works fine but it is useful as it’s coil ignition.
Will have a go at drilling through the sprocket Allen bolts for lockwire but will probably just start the bike first to see if it charges ok.
 

Latest Forum Threads

Top