Misc: Stands Request for a Mudguard Measurement

greg brillus

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There are so many details and variences with setting up a rear guard, a bit time consuming not unlike the timing chest. At any rate, it is a process and it needs to be followed unless you want a miriad of elongated holes......... I won't go into minor detail, but before you go too far, it is important to install the rear wheel and center everything........2 of the last sets I installed the rear lifting handle was not quite square, either slightly twisted or offset to one side.........This seems ok at first, but it makes the alignment of the rear flap and stand an extra problem........To start with the forward guard section, align and drill off the front hinge center bolt so about 2mm of guard protrudes behind the hinge rear face.......This will give you some material to play with later when the 2 guard sections need to marry up once the guard flap is fully down and the rear stand tommy bar is tightened. Do use the correct tall dome alloy rivets either side of this bolt, they are soft and easy to set........Do not use american AN aircraft rivets, their heads are not as tall, and they are much harder, therefore more difficult to set........make up a dolly using the end of a piece of good hardwood, or the end of a piece of steel or alloy bar.......using a 1/4" drill bit, linish the shape of the cutting edge to a dome shape and use this to cut the same shape into the corner of the piece of wood, steel, whatever........It needs to be close to the corner or other wise it will hit the head of the central bolt........it is good to do this with a second set of hands to support the inverted guard/hinge on the dolly held in the vice, whilst you set the rivets with punch and hammer........no need for heavy hits, the rivets are soft. The main guard is not too bad to install, the rear flap takes a bit more effort..........Just quickly.... once the main guard is in place, then you want the rear wheel in and the rear stand in place and ready to lift up to possition........Once the wheel is in you will quickly see if the guard/hinge is central to the wheel.........Do this before you install the main guard side braces, as once these are in place it will be very difficult to move the assembly from left to right or vice versa if needed.........Also as Chankly mentioned, the possition of these inter struts is important.......they do not sit as equal front to rear as you might think, needing to sit further aft, as this aligns the rear brake switch vs spring and if the stuts are too far forward, this then makes the spring pull the switch slide down too much at the front.........I'll leave it at that for now.
 

craig

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I have been using the bolt on rivets due to my inability to punch rivets, plus i needed the ability to disassemble for adjustment/replacement.


MudguardRivet3.jpg

UnslottedRoundHead1.jpg

UnslottedRoundHead2.jpg

MudguardService2.jpg
 
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Magnetoman

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Greg and Craig, thanks for the information. Greg, I printed your post and edited into a checklist that I'll use when I make it to the garage later today.
 

greg brillus

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Interesting find there Craig, on the machine screws........I'll be away for the next couple of days, but will assist if needed once I come back.........Cheers.
 

Magnetoman

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.2 of the last sets I installed the rear lifting handle was not quite square, ....the possition of these inter struts is important.......they do not sit as equal front to rear as you might think,
Normally I don't trust things that appear to be symmetric to actually be symmetric, so I check. Despite that, I hadn't checked the lifting handle, but I got lucky. The distance from the stud for the front half of the hinge to the stud for mounting the shocks on one side is only ~½ mm different than the distance on the other side.

1260LiftingHandledistance.jpg


As for the struts, I set them exactly as they had been with the original mudguard. Although the one on the left is ~¼" further forward than the one on the right, that can't be the difference you're talking about, can it?

1270Mudguardbrace.jpg
 

Alyson

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as above, just checked the spare I have and this is what I found... and that's Miss Alyson BTW
I should have added that these fenders came with a very early B UFM so the rear stand position might differ from a C but I can't be sure these fenders were from that machine in particular
 

Texas John

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That one is early as it has no rear fender stays. I am about to do the same work as my 1948 Rapide has a very improper and floppy fender off of who-knows-what and without stays or lift handle. I am wondering how the shorter Rear Frame Member will affect fender fitment. I need to finish building the rear wheel and then on to the fender installation.
 

Texas John

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Charles/MM, Would you be so kind as to share your summary notes/checklist that you made for this project, please. I lost your email address when I retired recently, but would be glad to offer mine to you if you would be so inclined.
 
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