I saw that and thought that I would email Marcus directly. He needs to be using a pump plunger with inclined teeth if he is going to be using a twin start worm. I will see what he says. Trevor's mod will not help with this.
Oil pump
- Thread starter clevtrev
- Start date
One thing I found recently was when I went to install the plunger, this using all new standard parts, I thought I would try the fit of the solid peg on the end of the OP 36 locating screw, with the slot in the new pump plunger. What I found was that for about 1/4 of the rotational travel of the plunger that the peg section would jam up solid. I figured if this was assembled it would put huge strain on the worm/plunger teeth, and/or damage the peg on the OP 36. So I used a small grinding bit in my dremel, and opened up the slot area where the binding was most. This was quite time consuming, as the plunger is very hard. I think in the end I also ground the peg diameter down a couple of thou, just to make sure the assembly would rotate without binding. Has anyone else had this problem.....? I did not want to go too far to avoid excessive backlash in the pump, but I figured this was better than parts that are too tight on initial assembly. Cheers.........Greg.
We have just found that the OP36 screw was too long = jams , And the head was longer than the old ones, Lucky for us we were doing it at my house and I had a new old stock, We are talking to Ian. Years ago I had the same as Greg and I ground down the side of the screw. Cheers Bill.
Never having seen a p/p plunger with a helix angle set along it for the two start worm but would have thought the various suppliers would have known as I ordered the twin start worm with it, Doug Hollis 68, Tony Mourn 70, Ron Kemp 90 & VOCSC 2010, the first one went into brother Harvey's after I used up the life of that bottom end heaving around my Stieb s/c, recall one load from Norfolk with series "A" Comet in bits (Tony Fox-Male's remnants) inside chair then picked up a "C" Comet complete & working from Swindon and laid it on top (that was after a Stevenage Rally 66 or 67). It didsway a little when trying to slow down!
Each time fitting the Bronze sleeve I've always had to ream the case and dress the holes drilled radially as it can be distorted very easily when fitted, nice slide fit with lubrication then plunger & OP36 then should rotate easily, with worn pip with flats on I grind under side of head a little to rotate 90 degrees so lost motion is taken up. Like to get maximum stroke for optimum oil flow.
Must learn how to put pictures onto this forum, it wold save a lot of words.
bananaman.
Each time fitting the Bronze sleeve I've always had to ream the case and dress the holes drilled radially as it can be distorted very easily when fitted, nice slide fit with lubrication then plunger & OP36 then should rotate easily, with worn pip with flats on I grind under side of head a little to rotate 90 degrees so lost motion is taken up. Like to get maximum stroke for optimum oil flow.
Must learn how to put pictures onto this forum, it wold save a lot of words.
bananaman.
Hello Marcus, Maybe it's my eyes !! I do worry a lot !. But we did a bit on this some time ago on the Forum, I think Trev said the Factory never did a 2 start plunger, But I posted a photo of them side by side, Howard also told us how to tell a 2 start worm, All The Best, Bill.
I think that I have written about this before somewhere on another thread on here and some people are getting away with using a two start worm and a single start plunger. The best way that I can think of to illustrate why this is a bad combination is to take a twin start worm and a piece of chalk or other marking item and then start off at one end of the worm and mark all along the top of one of the teeth. You will find that when you have finished only every other tooth is marked and the helix angle of that tooth is double that of what it would be on a single start pump. The problem is that a simple visual inspection of the worm does not show a difference. You have to do the above test to show the difference in helix angle. Marcus seems to get away with it for many hundreds of thousands of miles but mechanically it is not good practice. If the angle difference is only two degrees then it is clear why it is difficult to see the difference on the two plungers shown by Bill.
No wonder the oil tanks end up with so many metal particles lying in the bottom of the tank.......Then there's the alloy idler, the cams and followers, loose rocker bushes........Quite amazing the engines last as long as they do, really............
Greg, You are too young to remember !!, How slow and how quick the Cars of the 50s and 60s wore out. I remember draining the engine/gearbox of a Mini, It had a magnet on the drain plug = First oil change from new, You could hardly get the plug out because of the metal bits, We were all shocked, But it was normal !!. Cheers Bill.
Yes you are absolutely correct Bill......I suppose the Vincent had quite a generous sized oil filter, and of better filtering quality than most other "Rock Catcher" gauze type filters used by other manufacturers at that time. The machining quality and use of descent air/oil filters we all know of these days, makes most all modern car and bike engines last forever, and the fact that most are liquid cooled helps minimize ware and tare. As big a pain it is to clean a Vincent oil tank thoroughly, I guess the large flat catchment area of the base of the tank helps to keep all foreign metal particles and sludge trapped, And so minimizing the amount feeding back into the engine. When I did my apprenticeship years ago back in New Zealand, a large portion of the cars I worked on were British and European......The only cars I had as my daily drivers were Mini's......A total of 4 to be exact. All my friends thought I was completely mad, but I loved them.......Great cars for driving in the city, not so good at Hi-way speeds though. Cheers.......Greg.