Ref the HT lead... from the way it flops about I think it might be a carbon one. If so, I'll change it. Another strange thing - when I use a 6v battery to power the lamp that tells me when the points open, the lamp goes out. When I use a 12v battery *it's a 12v bulb) the light dims but does not go out when the points open. Any ideas on that one???
Friendly chap with huge kickstart foot required!
- Thread starter Phil Baker
- Start date
Check that the points are clean and flat. A tiny spec of dirt/metal there can cause all sorts of problems.
I use a timing whel and one of these to ensure I set the timing EXACTLY where I want it. http://www.morrismagneto.com/timing.html Works a treat and there is no guess work. I set my ignition to fire at 4 degrees BEFORE TDC without any advance from the ATD and my Comet starts readilly.
As others have said, 1. Use a brand NEW spark plug; 2. use solid copper cored HT lead; 3. Do NOT use a resistor spark plug, a resistor spark plug cap or a resistor type HT lead. 4. Retain your humor.
As others have said, 1. Use a brand NEW spark plug; 2. use solid copper cored HT lead; 3. Do NOT use a resistor spark plug, a resistor spark plug cap or a resistor type HT lead. 4. Retain your humor.
Points
Recently, I had virtually the exact same problem and symptoms with the points on my B Meteor, despite them looking absolutely fine. First, I cleaned the points using cigarette-lighter fuel. Then, using a very blunt, almost smooth magneto file, I rubbed both contacts reasonably gently - by allowing the contact breaker spring pressure to close the points on to the file. That cured my problem - I'll cross my fingers for you!
Recently, I had virtually the exact same problem and symptoms with the points on my B Meteor, despite them looking absolutely fine. First, I cleaned the points using cigarette-lighter fuel. Then, using a very blunt, almost smooth magneto file, I rubbed both contacts reasonably gently - by allowing the contact breaker spring pressure to close the points on to the file. That cured my problem - I'll cross my fingers for you!
All good stuff. I have already filed the points, bought a new plug, timed at 4 deg fully retarded using a battery and light which show exactly when the points open. The spark plug cap is a non-resistor type. What concerns me about all these potential changes/refurbs to the HT system is that it already has a big fat healthy blue-white spark at the plug - if there was a weak spark I could see a justification for concern. I'll replace the HT lead with a copper one anyway and make sure that the contact is good by starting it off with a pint (oops, another temptation) I mean pointy thing to ensure that the cap screw goes in centrally. Keep my humour, you say! Doing alright so far - it's useful being able to express it all on this forum and feel that others are interested..... thanks! Stumpy keeps me locally sane, too! Phil
The HT lead IS copper and very well soldered onto the mag end. Cut it and reconnected to spark plug cap anyway. Done a little bit of rewiring/shrinksleeving and generallly avoided the question so far today!
Oh yes, and I had a new float with the 229 carb and fitting that has reduced the incessant dripping of fuel whilst waiting for the engine to start...
OK, I'm going to summarise what's been done to my Comet so far and hope that I'm just thick and have forgotten something obvious:
The taps are sending plenty of fuel to the carbs. The fuel lines are ethanol-proof. I have just chucked out the timing light idea and retimed at 4 deg BTDC fully retarded on the firing stroke with a 1 thou feeler gauge to show when the points open. I got a new float and float chamber with the recently-acquired 229 carb but hadn't used them because the outer casing of the chamber had a rust mark I've now used the new carb float and that has stopped the perpetual dripping. Fuel is still getting to the carb - slight weep from bottom carb big ring confirms that.
Cylinder head has been completely redone by Clever Trevor.
Bore, piston and rings have been checked and approved by Brian Parsons.
Cylinder head has been ground onto liner and barrel.
TWO gudgeon pin circlips have been fitted.
Fuel in really very recent unleaded. Spark plug is sparking in a healthy manner. HT lead is copper. Sparkplug cap is non-resistor type. Tank is steel and not rusty inside.
HT lead is copper core and well-soldered. Produces a healthy blue-white spark at the plug.
Sparkplug is new.
Carb : new 229 with clear jets, 1 and 1/4 turn out mixture screw. Choke works.
Valve timing - both valves are closed at TDC on the firing stroke.
Ignition timing - points open on the firing stroke at 4 deg BTDC.
The bike is now spitting back out of the carb sometimes and firing in the silencer at other times.
I am running out of ideas, knees and tears!
Phil
The taps are sending plenty of fuel to the carbs. The fuel lines are ethanol-proof. I have just chucked out the timing light idea and retimed at 4 deg BTDC fully retarded on the firing stroke with a 1 thou feeler gauge to show when the points open. I got a new float and float chamber with the recently-acquired 229 carb but hadn't used them because the outer casing of the chamber had a rust mark I've now used the new carb float and that has stopped the perpetual dripping. Fuel is still getting to the carb - slight weep from bottom carb big ring confirms that.
Cylinder head has been completely redone by Clever Trevor.
Bore, piston and rings have been checked and approved by Brian Parsons.
Cylinder head has been ground onto liner and barrel.
TWO gudgeon pin circlips have been fitted.
Fuel in really very recent unleaded. Spark plug is sparking in a healthy manner. HT lead is copper. Sparkplug cap is non-resistor type. Tank is steel and not rusty inside.
HT lead is copper core and well-soldered. Produces a healthy blue-white spark at the plug.
Sparkplug is new.
Carb : new 229 with clear jets, 1 and 1/4 turn out mixture screw. Choke works.
Valve timing - both valves are closed at TDC on the firing stroke.
Ignition timing - points open on the firing stroke at 4 deg BTDC.
The bike is now spitting back out of the carb sometimes and firing in the silencer at other times.
I am running out of ideas, knees and tears!
Phil
Hello Phil, Have you got good Compression, Like Norman says , You should be able to stand on the kickstarter ? What plug are you useing ?, You are almost there, Keep at it ,Cheers Bill.
No, Bill, I haven't got good compression but the consensus seems to be to get it running and that compression will develop over time. Plug is NGK B7ES. Phil