Vic, the orignal Vincent spring caps were aluminium but I do not know which alloy.
ET: Engine (Twin) ET38 Valve Circlip Install Tool, Collet Types and Pushrod Info
- Thread starter Cyborg
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One can harden stainless.
Even to 1600 hVickers.
Thats nore than aluoxide...
Downpit, is depth 0.05mm
And soft under.
But really great when one runs a rubber seal!!
Process, is called in chroming.
And yes it uses heat as well.
I used it on fork spindels.
Even to 1600 hVickers.
Thats nore than aluoxide...
Downpit, is depth 0.05mm
And soft under.
But really great when one runs a rubber seal!!
Process, is called in chroming.
And yes it uses heat as well.
I used it on fork spindels.
Best idea ever!!!
Well,
I just found a research paper on-line. I quote:-"Hardness of 304 Austenitic stainless is increased by cold deformation drastically".
Maybe they mean a big 'ammer?
I don't Believe PEI daydreamed that pushrods have "work hardening ends".
Fact is, 99% of us running about with non-wearing stainless pushrods, whatever grade it is.
Regards, Delboy.
I just found a research paper on-line. I quote:-"Hardness of 304 Austenitic stainless is increased by cold deformation drastically".
Maybe they mean a big 'ammer?
I don't Believe PEI daydreamed that pushrods have "work hardening ends".
Fact is, 99% of us running about with non-wearing stainless pushrods, whatever grade it is.
Regards, Delboy.
THAT IS ALSO THE MATERIAL THE WORKS MADE THE 1" & 7/16" TT CARB STUBS FROM RR77 WE RAN LRO 993 WORKS GREY FLASH WITH BIG PORT HEAD.
Well, yes, hardcoating is another option that can be applied on lots of materials, mild steel too. BUT : With such minimal coat thickness I´d first lap each pushrod perfectly nice with its corresponding adjuster screw and follower cup. Only then send the pushrods to the coater, like Balzers , lots of fascinating coats available. I cannot say what costs you have to expect with only a few parts - Vincent ??
But then I hate shipping parts to any "specialist" and prefer to do all jobs myself if I can - to spare me frustrations.
Also the massive pusrods in steel are weighty and look a bit amateurish. So only tubes would do for me, standard stainless got expansion factor 16 not 18 which is with brass or bronce. No, I love my alu tubes as used in modern BMWs or Horex - at 280 mm length !!
As to girder bushes I had to bend the 1935 Guzzi item after the torque slot on the steel back plate went by the pin, the back side had a big chamfer I did not see. So things turned out dramatic as the Bowden wire was the only means to stop rotation of backplate. 2 seconds later both of us were flat on the road, girder tubes very bent. It was only a test ride for new linings.
Anyway I had Permaglide bushes in the girder and ca. 30 000 km on them - no wear on ss spindles with absolutely no lubrication ever done. But now I decided on IGUS J 3 bushes you can line ream after pressing in. Will most likely outlive me.
Delboy, get a piece of 304 and hammer one end for decent deformation instead of believing "work hardening " religion. I bet you can file the end without any difficulty. Hardness on pushrod ends begins at 50 HRC for me. No chance to achieve this with chrome-nickel types. The types I listed above are sort of stainless but carbon/chrome alloys, no expansion higher than carbon steel. Instead of hardcoating you could have the ends TIG welded with high chrome low wear material and have them ball shape ground on a D-bit grinder (single lip end mill) .
So the spring caps were alu, that might have been the resaon they decided on the very wide taper for collets. So they had less of a risk of getting drawn into caps. But this is no argument for the wire clips plus collets - a nuisance I´d say. I made caps from 7075 to go with the TRW 3 groove design.
Vic
D-bit grinder for ball end adjusters plus cups to go with them - Erik knows . . .
But then I hate shipping parts to any "specialist" and prefer to do all jobs myself if I can - to spare me frustrations.
Also the massive pusrods in steel are weighty and look a bit amateurish. So only tubes would do for me, standard stainless got expansion factor 16 not 18 which is with brass or bronce. No, I love my alu tubes as used in modern BMWs or Horex - at 280 mm length !!
As to girder bushes I had to bend the 1935 Guzzi item after the torque slot on the steel back plate went by the pin, the back side had a big chamfer I did not see. So things turned out dramatic as the Bowden wire was the only means to stop rotation of backplate. 2 seconds later both of us were flat on the road, girder tubes very bent. It was only a test ride for new linings.
Anyway I had Permaglide bushes in the girder and ca. 30 000 km on them - no wear on ss spindles with absolutely no lubrication ever done. But now I decided on IGUS J 3 bushes you can line ream after pressing in. Will most likely outlive me.
Delboy, get a piece of 304 and hammer one end for decent deformation instead of believing "work hardening " religion. I bet you can file the end without any difficulty. Hardness on pushrod ends begins at 50 HRC for me. No chance to achieve this with chrome-nickel types. The types I listed above are sort of stainless but carbon/chrome alloys, no expansion higher than carbon steel. Instead of hardcoating you could have the ends TIG welded with high chrome low wear material and have them ball shape ground on a D-bit grinder (single lip end mill) .
So the spring caps were alu, that might have been the resaon they decided on the very wide taper for collets. So they had less of a risk of getting drawn into caps. But this is no argument for the wire clips plus collets - a nuisance I´d say. I made caps from 7075 to go with the TRW 3 groove design.
Vic
D-bit grinder for ball end adjusters plus cups to go with them - Erik knows . . .
Ah, I see,
Not only PEI, Phil Vincent was making it all up too:-
"The Motor Cycle" Aug' 53. "Stainless Steel of certain selected alloys forms a very stiff and rigid material which possesses the excellent quality for pushrod purposes of very rapid work-hardening. Consequently we are able to use very light but stiff pushrods which can be left in the "as machined" condition because the ball ends work-harden within the first few revolutions made by the engine".
Austenitic, 18 [Nickel]/8 [chrome] Stainless SteeI I believe; whatever number or grade. EN58, 304, nails, old carrots, etc.
Bored now.
regards,Delboy.
Not only PEI, Phil Vincent was making it all up too:-
"The Motor Cycle" Aug' 53. "Stainless Steel of certain selected alloys forms a very stiff and rigid material which possesses the excellent quality for pushrod purposes of very rapid work-hardening. Consequently we are able to use very light but stiff pushrods which can be left in the "as machined" condition because the ball ends work-harden within the first few revolutions made by the engine".
Austenitic, 18 [Nickel]/8 [chrome] Stainless SteeI I believe; whatever number or grade. EN58, 304, nails, old carrots, etc.
Bored now.
regards,Delboy.
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Thanks, but it appears I might not be the first. Delboy mentioned a similar one from Clevtrev back in the 80’s.
I had made up a tube to go over the narrow part of the valve stem to protect the seal when the valve is installed and it dawned on me that it could be used to shove the clip on. It worked, but decided to make a separate dedicated tube so the small radius on the end of the seal protector wouldn’t get damaged. It also fits over the bolt that holds the retainer tool in place which protects and aligns the seal during installation as well as protecting the guide bore.
I would copy your removal tool, but I have no plans to ever remove a clip and hope to keep it that way.
Anyway…. if Trevclev thought of it first, that’s ok. If I’m half as clever as he is, then all is good.
I’ll probably regret mentioning seals…
I may regret mentioning seals…..
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