Electric Start For Vincent
- Thread starter hernandez1942
- Start date
Sorry, trying to position the camplate at the G49 lever stop is not a reliable and durable option. When you look at lever lengths you will notice any force onto the gear lever by a heavy boot will be a lot higher by a factor of five onto the questionable stops at the G 49 faces. That component itself is positioned by some funny screw heads plus an eccentric on an alu casting - typically mangled a lot . I have accepted that but just for adjusting the gear change lever roughly at middle position, but NOT for setting up the camplate gear selection.
For camplate positioning you really want any stops as close to the camplate without any sloppy components to go between stops and camplate.
So to this target I decided on an alu block doweled around the G 59 change speed pawl assy, you cannot get any closer to the gear ratchet shaft. The alu bit is some time of filing, dremel burrs and all but can be done on the bike basically. The G 59 will then stop at two faces you marked by scriber on the block at down shift plus upshift positions , feeling for the clicks in the box when the selector pin G 35 slips into the vees of the camplate. Certainly the alu has to have some clearance not to hit the kickstart cover but a Dremel and burr will be quite helpful.
Next flaw with the change stop at the G 49 lever stop is any adjustments there on grub screws will produce a position shift at the actuating arm end with its roller by a factor of four or so. So this is not what you want basically : Fine adjustments are supposed to work inverse: Any rough settings on adjusters should produce finer settings at the critical place, so any wear or forces should be less at the critical component that requires "adjustments" . So that is why I did not accept the thinking in the original idea at all. Once you got the alu block finished for reliable stops it will never need any messing around whenever you disassemble components in the gearbox or kickstart cover and nothing will wear out or get mangled by high forces .
Now you think it all over and decide on what mod is worth its time spent . . ..
Vic
downshift position:
upshift position :
For camplate positioning you really want any stops as close to the camplate without any sloppy components to go between stops and camplate.
So to this target I decided on an alu block doweled around the G 59 change speed pawl assy, you cannot get any closer to the gear ratchet shaft. The alu bit is some time of filing, dremel burrs and all but can be done on the bike basically. The G 59 will then stop at two faces you marked by scriber on the block at down shift plus upshift positions , feeling for the clicks in the box when the selector pin G 35 slips into the vees of the camplate. Certainly the alu has to have some clearance not to hit the kickstart cover but a Dremel and burr will be quite helpful.
Next flaw with the change stop at the G 49 lever stop is any adjustments there on grub screws will produce a position shift at the actuating arm end with its roller by a factor of four or so. So this is not what you want basically : Fine adjustments are supposed to work inverse: Any rough settings on adjusters should produce finer settings at the critical place, so any wear or forces should be less at the critical component that requires "adjustments" . So that is why I did not accept the thinking in the original idea at all. Once you got the alu block finished for reliable stops it will never need any messing around whenever you disassemble components in the gearbox or kickstart cover and nothing will wear out or get mangled by high forces .
Now you think it all over and decide on what mod is worth its time spent . . ..
Vic
downshift position:
upshift position :
What is that old British saying “The proof of the pudding is in the eating”
Meaning the true value of something can be judged only by practical experience or results, and not from appearances or theory.
Meaning the true value of something can be judged only by practical experience or results, and not from appearances or theory.
Well, I did not say the grub screws would not work. Just all snags I pointed to above , apply to that idea even so: It is not particularly clever having fine adjustments at a place that effects big setting changes by minimum changes at the adjuster. So any little wear or minimal shifting of components will have a multiplied effect at the component that is meant to get only fine adjustment. The G 49 alu lever stop is not a brilliant design anyway as most have found in their bikes and not the best place for fine adjustments that will endure decades of rough use. What works on racers is not necessarily useful on road bikes with all sorts of riders and decades of wear on the bike. Like alu conrods , they may be great for racers , allright for one single race at worst before exchanging them for next race. Or titanium valves , I would not have faith in them for long time use. Same with these grub screws , look like an easy bodge for a poor basic design, but sorry, not acceptable for me, simply substandard - a disgrace for a bike like a Vincent. Well, not my headache any more, just pointing to some more ideas out of the limited Vincent box . . .
Vic
Vic
Even so, they will have same old bevel drive to the camplate I´d think. Same with the Surtees 5-speed gears. I don´t have war with the G 49 alu bit - when it does not double with the gear change stops for not over- or underselecting gear change. It is just not great wanting to stop the mass of the actuating arm in the action at the very close grub screws in the G 49 near the gear lever shaft. Too much force there and no reliable positioning at the G 59AS change speed pawl place at that distance from the lever stops.
When deciding on lever stops at the G 49 and grub screws you want that G 49 to be put absolutely solid at its place. So then another flaw with the two fixing screws , one of them the excentric G 57 stop plate adjuster. My memory is clouded about some poor fits of the old excentric screw on the G 49, did not look solid or reliable, rather mangled bits. So , well, another devation, had some plates for the two screws made, plus a separate excentric roller, no hex head on it. I don´t do fine adjustments here, only centralizing the lever roughly for middle position. Then do the non-excentric screw up, throw in the excentric roller plus a split washer for some preload on the roller so it does not move when the lot is finally fixed for good.
Vic
When deciding on lever stops at the G 49 and grub screws you want that G 49 to be put absolutely solid at its place. So then another flaw with the two fixing screws , one of them the excentric G 57 stop plate adjuster. My memory is clouded about some poor fits of the old excentric screw on the G 49, did not look solid or reliable, rather mangled bits. So , well, another devation, had some plates for the two screws made, plus a separate excentric roller, no hex head on it. I don´t do fine adjustments here, only centralizing the lever roughly for middle position. Then do the non-excentric screw up, throw in the excentric roller plus a split washer for some preload on the roller so it does not move when the lot is finally fixed for good.
Vic
Yes