Misc: Stands D type stand removal

danno

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Hi
I’m trying to remove this stand from my C Rapide but can’t figure out how to undo the pivot bolts. Just need to get the stand off to file down a bolt that’s marking the brake lever.
The bolts tighten both ways and it’s very difficult to get a spanner on the inside one.
Looks like a special spring washer or something in between the bolt head and stand.

If these won’t undo, I may be able to take the mounting plates off with stand attached although the left side one seems to be pressed firmly onto the rear frame through bolt.
I don’t think I have the original installation instructions unfortunately.
Not sure if any owners have one of these fitted but any help would be appreciated.
 

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timetraveller

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The pivot bolts, F69, and spring washers are the same as was used on the rear stand of 'C' s and 'B's. It should be possible to to put a spanner under the plate and onto the inner nuts and then undo the bolts, the heads of which you can see. You might want to either have a feel around with your fingers or use a mirror to make sure that a previous owner has not put two thin washers on the inside, one to act as a lock nut to the other. There are not, or should not be, any left hand threads to work with so it should be possible to just unwind both bolts, If something is tightening up then you need to make sure of what is on the inside.
 

danno

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Yes, I'm sure the bolts are stainless. Haven't heard of never seize.
Trying to get the left side one off and it's very tight. It's also tricky to hold the bolt and stop it from turning.
I have a couple of sockets that fit and a few long 1/2" drive handles so will persevere.
 

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danno

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Non-VOC Member
Danno,
Neverseize is like copaslip.

Neil
Thanks.
I often use Copaslip but have learnt not to use it on stainless fasteners in alloy.
On my BMW airhead, a stainless mudguard stay allen bolt has seized in the fork slider. I used Copaslip on it and I think it's caused a reaction with the alloy.
Anyway, the left side bolt is off now. The right side is very tight still.
 
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Comet Rider

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Rocol used to make a lubricant that was based on colloidal graphite which was brilliant.
Used a lot in the aviation industry, but my last tube has just about run out
 

oexing

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VOC Member
I never had any troubles wirth stainless fasteners, but you definitely lubricate threads - as you should when having same material bolted up with itself. BMW owners will know when undoing the ex pipe finned alu nuts screwed onto alu heads. This has been a BMW tradition for decades - I mean having to weld wrecked alu threads on heads . Same would happen with unplated steel fasteners, screw and nut - unless you got galvanized types which is almost standard in shops and the zinc or cadmium coat acts like lube.
For lubricating ss fasteners or high heat applications when grease will go up in smoke I get MoS2 grease or finest powder , don´t have much faith in copper based lube. In my photo you can see NATO type MoS2 grease and powder from our army supply, so this must be allright . . . . See the blueish dark grey colour, the products in Aliexpress pictures look a bit like graphite which I would not want in my engines being slightly abrasive.
The ultrafine MoS2 powder is added in the BMW gearboxes front and rear as they are heavily loaded from the torque of the big bore 734cc alu cylinders. Standard was 500 and 600 cc on Earles types. So far I had no more troubles from that side, hypoid gear oil plus MoS2 powder looking after them.

Vic
Mos2 grease

MoS2 powder

P1060715.JPG
 

danno

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Non-VOC Member
All off now. Helps to remember that the bolt hole is threaded.
Just need to level the protruding thread of the stand linkage bolt now. Pic shows this and the wear on the brake arm.
 

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